What am I getting into with sloppy tilt wheel?

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OlSmokie

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My 90' C1500 has developed some slop in the tilt mechanism and after looking at a couple of videos on YouTube, I decided to order a pivot pin remover and tackle it myself.
Apparently, it is common for some bolts to come loose, or not be tightened properly in the first place, causing the slop.
Has anyone here done this repair? It looks like it could be a big job.
 

89RCLB

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Completely do-able, little time consuming first go around. Specialty tools you will need are a 1/4" Torx E8 cap socket, lock plate compressor tool and the pivot pin remover (which you can easily fab without buying the tool). Biggest hassle is making sure the rod that runs down the column is seated correctly when putting it back together. That and the high beam switch mechanism can be a PITA on re-assembly. Take your time pulling it apart and you shouldn't have any issues putting it back together.
 
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someotherguy

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Yeah really no need to take the tilt knuckle itself apart; getting the bolts tight is what's needed and that can be done through the column after enough disassembly. Plenty of videos/write-ups about this around the net, that older style tilt column had been in use for many years with little variation.

Richard
 

94burbk1500

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I had to do it on an 89 caprice a year or so ago, the hard part was getting everything put back together just right. I had it apart and back together about 4 times before it was all said and done, took a couple of hours. I wouldn't enjoy doing it again, but it isn't THAT bad.
 

OlSmokie

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Yeah really no need to take the tilt knuckle itself apart; getting the bolts tight is what's needed and that can be done through the column after enough disassembly. Plenty of videos/write-ups about this around the net, that older style tilt column had been in use for many years with little variation.

Richard
You are right. I was following the video, but when I got to that point I saw that I could get a 1/4 drive socket with a swivel in there just by moving the knuckle over. I took them out one at a time using a magnet, (they were all loose), and I just hit them with lock tight and tightened them up. Like new now and it only took me a couple of hours.
 

TechNova

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Take pictures as you go for a reminder how it fits together. The pivot pins can be pulled with a machine screw in an old style dent slidehammer.
Strong fingers can depress the lockplate but the right tool makes it much easier.
I have done maybe 50 of them but it has been a few years since the last. 3 of the screws can be removed one at a time
and locktited. I usually left the fourth alone as it required a lot more disaasembly.
I was doing them on the clock.
 

Moparmat2000

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Had to do mine. Bought the truck new in 1994, was always careful not to pull the lever and let the wheel slam upward, but it still loosened up anyways. Loctite them in. My advice is remove one bolt at a time, clean off the assembly oil thats on it with a little laquer thinner, apply loctite to the threads and then torque it back down, then remove the next bolt and repeat etc etc. until you do all 4 bolts. Do not remove all 4 at the same time to loctite them, or the plate they thread into will fall down inside the column, then your pulling the column and dissassembling it to get that plate back up in there. .
 

DerekTheGreat

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Wow, not related but stores of people who bought these things new are neat. You pick the thing up off the lot or custom order it? Should be thread for cool stories like this.
 

Moparmat2000

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Just stumbled on this again, didnt realize i had to subscribe to a thread to get notifications. On a mopar thread thats layed out pretty similar, once you reply notifications on the thread are automatic.

Lived in N.J. at the time. All cars on the dealer lots, very little in the way of trucks. Had to be special ordered for what i wanted. Took 22 weeks just to get a vin assigned by GM. Then another 6 weeks to get it after that. Pretty nice run of the option sheets though.

Heres the specs. Regular cab, 8 foot bed, 2WD Silverado package, 350, 5 speed manual O/D, 3.55 gears , locking diff, tow prep package, 60/40 split bench, power windows, power locks, A/C, tilt, cruise, gage package w tach, light package, teal green with gray interior. Optional factory chrome rear step bumper. Base stereo no cassette.

A truck this oddball optioned you would never be able to find on a lot somewhere. Also, in N.J. if i can remember back then the rear bumper was an added on upgrade. I think because lots of people put custom ones on.
 

Hipster

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Just stumbled on this again, didnt realize i had to subscribe to a thread to get notifications. On a mopar thread thats layed out pretty similar, once you reply notifications on the thread are automatic.

Lived in N.J. at the time. All cars on the dealer lots, very little in the way of trucks. Had to be special ordered for what i wanted. Took 22 weeks just to get a vin assigned by GM. Then another 6 weeks to get it after that. Pretty nice run of the option sheets though.

Heres the specs. Regular cab, 8 foot bed, 2WD Silverado package, 350, 5 speed manual O/D, 3.55 gears , locking diff, tow prep package, 60/40 split bench, power windows, power locks, A/C, tilt, cruise, gage package w tach, light package, teal green with gray interior. Optional factory chrome rear step bumper. Base stereo no cassette.

A truck this oddball optioned you would never be able to find on a lot somewhere. Also, in N.J. if i can remember back then the rear bumper was an added on upgrade. I think because lots of people put custom ones on.


Hey, your on Fabo, we've spoke a few times over there. Boy the internet is getting to be a small place. lol

Grew up in Jersey, Yeah, a rear bumper wasn't required by law back then on a pickup. You used to see a lot new trucks with the generic silver or black diamond tread ones put on. Never thought it looked good on a nice new truck.
 
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