Fuel Issue (pump?)

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truckintim05

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First Guess: Rotted hose on pump output nipple, inside the tank. There could be enough of the hose left to spray fuel with the fuel filter disconnected, but not enough to hold enough pressure to run the vehicle.

I'm hoping you're onto something here. After disconnecting the (correct) fuel supply line and cycling the key there was good flow of fuel coming out there. But like you said, there should have been something coming out the return port of the TB, but there was nothing.

Now when I cycle the key I can hear fuel flowing into the gas tank. Like its pumping from the pick up, right back into the tank. I guess I'm lifting the bed. I think the easiest for me in my garage by myself would be lifting just the drivers side.
 

94burbk1500

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I'm hoping you're onto something here. After disconnecting the (correct) fuel supply line and cycling the key there was good flow of fuel coming out there. But like you said, there should have been something coming out the return port of the TB, but there was nothing.

Now when I cycle the key I can hear fuel flowing into the gas tank. Like its pumping from the pick up, right back into the tank. I guess I'm lifting the bed. I think the easiest for me in my garage by myself would be lifting just the drivers side.
Unless the undercarriage is rust free, I'd get some penetrating oil on those bolts way ahead of time. I spent 3 hours just removing the bed bolts from my S10 when i did the pump.:doh2:
 

truckintim05

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First Guess: Rotted hose on pump output nipple, inside the tank.

You're a ******* wizard man.

*side note: I've had the bed off before, I live in Texas, and my truck is garaged all the time. No rusty bolts here. It was a cake walk. Lucky me.
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Schurkey

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The fuel hose on the pump output is "special"; it requires a specific rating for submersion in gasoline. The spec is "SAE 30R10" which ought to be printed on the outside of the hose.

http://www.gatesunitta.com/en/submersible-fuel-line-hose

Of course, even the proper hose will give up the ghost if it's been in-use long enough. Double-true if the pump isn't aligned to the tube nicely--and yours seems to have alignment issues.



if you’re a long bed, I highly suggest dropping the tank. When I removed my bed to do the pump, good god! Would have been easier to do the tank, the long bed is ridiculously heavy!

I've done the pump twice on my long-bed K1500. Once I pulled the tank, once I pulled the bed. Of the two, I'd rather pull the bed--but it's about 50/50 overall.

Now that I know to lift only the front of the bed, it should be easier. I had to remove the receiver hitch before I could remove the rear bumper, and only then would the bed lift straight up. My 1/2" impact was wounded at the time--although I didn't know that until later--so I had to crack the bolts loose with a long-handled ratchet. My truck spent it's time with previous owners in Wisconsin and Minnesota. All the bolts were rusted, but at least the bed has big holes that make it light-weight. The hardware got wire-brushed and coated with anti-sieze before re-installation.

Lifting the bed was a piece of cake after the crusty bolts were gone. Don't forget to brace the sides of the bed. A cut-to-fit 2X4 is good enough. And bolt the chain around the lifting hook, so the load can't shift to one side and drop.

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If you're faced with dropping a fuel tank that's heavy with fuel, either use what's left of the fuel pump to drain the tank into portable gas cans, or siphon the thing dry. No sense in man-handling a full tank.
 
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truckintim05

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The fuel hose on the pump output is "special"; it requires a specific rating for submersion in gasoline. The spec is "SAE 30R10" which ought to be printed on the outside of the hose.

I've done the pump twice on my long-bed K1500. Once I pulled the tank, once I pulled the bed. Of the two, I'd rather pull the bed--but it's about 50/50 overall.


If you're faced with dropping a fuel tank that's heavy with fuel, either use what's left of the fuel pump to drain the tank into portable gas cans, or siphon the thing dry. No sense in man-handling a full tank.

I bought the whole sending unit/pump yesterday. It's a Delphi, so hopefully everything is legit. In that picture I purposely tweaked it a little so you can see the tear, but I doubt I'll have any problems with the new one. It's installed now, just gotta test, and drop the bed back. I lifted the drivers side only. It was a tight fit to get my body in there, able to see but it worked in the end. Kinda sad I spent $200 on the whole unit when it was a $1 part that actually failed, but oh well. Now I know everything is good and the pump will hopefully last another 20 years.
 

454cid

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...Kinda sad I spent $200 on the whole unit when it was a $1 part that actually failed...

Well it probably costs more than a dollar. I believe that hose is sold by the inch. You might save that thing, and get it ready to go back in... I think most fuel pumps are chinese now.
 

454cid

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My 1/2" impact was wounded at the time--although I didn't know that until later--so I had to crack the bolts loose with a long-handled ratchet.

What was wrong with it, and was it fixable? I was having to break bolts free by hand before I could zip them out too.
 

Schurkey

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What was wrong with it, and was it fixable? I was having to break bolts free by hand before I could zip them out too.
I had two jobs in a row that needed high-torque from my impact gun, and it failed both jobs. This was the first one. The second was unrelated.

I was desperate to get the second job finished, so I tracked down the Snap-On Guy. Bought a new MG725, $375 plus tax, cash (slight discount from retail at that time.) They were over $500 when they were discontinued, now Snappy sells the PT850 for $600.

I keep whip-hoses on all my air tools. I'm pulling the whip off my old, weak air wrench--a formerly superb Snap-On IM510B. When I was working at the Bus Plant, this was the only 1/2" air impact that could properly tighten the large jam-nuts on the air conditioning pipes. I think the nuts (socket size) were 1 1/2 inches, and 1 7/8 inches. This is 3/4" impact territory. My Snappy would eat the brand-new company-supplied 1/2" IRs and CPs. I actually had to tell my crew to NOT use those impacts to tighten those jam nuts, because they couldn't get 'em tight enough, and then when the A/C hoses were attached--one of them used a brass (high temperature) O-ring which needed to be REALLY tight to seal--the copper tubes would wind-up when the hose was installed. Then we spent hours removing and replacing the damaged copper tube.

Anyway, I'm pulling the whip hose off my 510B to install on the shiny, new MG725. It suddenly occurs to me that in all the years that I've had the 510B (about six years professionally, at the bus plant, then another six or ten with hobby use, and I bought it from the Mac Guy as a used tool, so it was actually older than that) I'd never, ever cleaned the screen on the air inlet in the handle.

So I pull the air inlet fittings out, and I find the screen is 1/3 plugged with crap that made it through the air hose, or fell into the air inlet. I clean out the crap, put it all back together, and I used that 510B again while my brand-new MG725 went out-of-warranty sitting in my tool box.

Eventually I sold the 510B on Craigslist for $80 or $90, which was about what I'd paid for it all those years ago, and started using the MG. Yeah, the MG is more powerful than the 510B...but that 510B did me proud for many, many years.

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1. Don't forget to clean the air-inlet screen now and then. For that matter, change the oil in the impact case (some models) or squeeze in some fresh grease (other models.)

2. If there's an actual broken part inside an air tool, I've purchased repair parts for a Mac 3/8 impact through Power Tool Repair in Ohio. They seem to have an EXTENSIVE selection and inventory of parts for dozens of brands and hundreds--maybe thousands--of models.
https://www.powertoolrepairohio.com/

3. Remember that air tools are -usually- rated for power with 90 psi. That 90 psi is AT THE AIR TOOL INLET, WITH THE TOOL RUNNING. This probably means that there's 120+ psi in the air tank. My system runs with the tank at 135 psi to get a steady 90 at the tool, with the tool running. Most single-stage air compressors will NOT be able to keep up, so the air pressure--and tool power--drops. When I still had a single-stage compressor, I took the regulator OFF, because I needed every bit of air the thing could deliver. God bless two-stage air compressors!
 
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454cid

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Thank you. I'll check the screen.... if it has one. The one I'm using is an old cheapy so it might just be bad. The weird thing is that a few weeks ago it zipped my front spindle nut off when I couldn't get it with my breaker bar.
 
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