Rear Axle Lift-SOLVED-

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Bob L

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BTW I gave you your first like when you finally humbled yourself enough to start listening to the advice you have been givin. The best thing I was told while learning the trade from on the job training was to listen and watch how others do things. Save the things that work best for you. Not every thing you hear see will help kind of like you tube research, weed out the ones that don't really know and absorb the ones that do.
 

Pighuntin

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@Biggershaft96......I agree with those angle that they would be undesirable. IMO....I know I could use some plate to lower the front part of the spring down to level out the spring pack which when first confronted with this, I thought about doing but stopped cause of the rear bracket design.

So, just sticking with the rear hanger design....hypothetical.....I build a set of front hangers to lower the springs down for the front. Use a 2" block(the biggest I think that would work for this) and make those rear hangers a bit shorter in the design you provided. What do you think of that? Would that be a better way to approach?

I agree that using that much flat stock will provide side to side flex even with the braces your mounts have.
 

Biggershaft96

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i wouldnt worry about the flat stock bending with proper gusseting, the part i would worry about is the leverage it has on the frame.

This isnt what you want but, if it were mine i would do a shackle flip along with dropping the hanger 2" which would net 6". then 4" springs and a 2" taper block. if i needed more payload id make a set of quick detach air bags. that combo should bring a decent ride plus all the payload you could want depending on what bags you use. amazon has some with 9" of travel for like $90.
 

Pighuntin

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Do you think there would be uneven leverage on the frame even if the leaf springs were brought down level?

If so, would reinforcing the frame help?

Now I understand that they are different vehicles and different applications....bear with me while I try to explain....The Ford Superduty trucks....For their front leaf spring mountings, they use a fixed bracket in the front. The rear shackle like our trucks is on the open "C" channel of the frame. What Ford did was place another piece of metal inside the frame to strengthen the frame. I attached a pic. Do you think something like that would strengthen the frame enough not to worry about it tweaking the frame?

Another thing I am thinking since this is evolving very well....I like the idea of the airbags for leveling. The front is 45" tall right now. The starting rear is 37" Without messing with the springs....Do you think 8" is too much to make it unsafe? Thought process here was originally to keep the truck higher in the back so under load, it would be level. The airbag idea would allow me to stay level under load while keeping my leafs. The logistics of that extra 4 inches goes away at that point. What do you think? Getting to the realm of something doable without stressing the frame now at 8"?

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sewlow

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O.K. Serious & polite now.
You mentioned frame stress. I can see you having probs with twisting due to the mechanical leverage that those much longer mounts would create.
These frames are not the best when it comes to strength. They're not all that bad, but not all that great either.
They suffer a prob called 'Beam Walk'. The frame sets up a resonance between the 2 rails at certain speeds.
There are more than few threads on here basically concerned with..."My truck has a vibration." Usually it occurs between 40 & 50mph, disappears above that, & then reappears again at around 70mph.
GM is aware of the problem & they actually have a suggestion to cure.
Get this. Their 'solution' is 500lbs. of ballast! Gee thanks! That's just great. But, not very practical. It does reveal that these frames are somewhat lacking when in stock configuration. Start messing with monster suspension lifts & things start to rear up their ugly little heads. GM only designed the frame to meet the minimum basic standard. Of course it's the same ole same ole. One thing leads to another when modifying.
There is something that you can do, though.
#1. Box the frame.
From the rear cab body mount back to just past the rear shackle hanger. This is a bit of a logistical nightmare, as you have to work around all the stuff mounted to the frame. It has been done before, though.
If you were to do this, then the flex points would become the crossmembers. I'd suggest plating them on the topside.
But, once again this moves the stress to other locations, that being where the crossmembers attach to the frame. So...Those areas where the bolts go through the frame would need to be plated with additional steel.
Then there's having to reroute all that stuff running inside those open frame rails now. Otherwise, how the hell can you get to all that when it's enclosed inside the boxed rails.
I have actually seen where someone took another set of frame rails & welded the left one to the inside of the right one & vice versa. Wish I had taken some pix. It was actually done quite well.
But, all this is adding a **** load of weight. Especially when utilizing a second frame. While that's not all that bad, there is another way to strengthen up that noodle of a frame.
#2. Instead of boxing the whole frame from the cab mount back, trusses could be welded in on the open side of the frame channel. Sort of, kind of, like a bridge. A series of bars or rods in a 'V' configuration, also running from that rear cab mount to the rear hanger. Spread that stress out. This would not only stiffen up the frame, but it'd be lighter than boxing. Less B.S. dealing with all the stuff connected to the frame, too. I'd still plate those crossmembers, though.
I could see that amount of lift really giving the stock frame rails a bad time with the added stress & torque, especially with the not-so-great rep that they already have under 'normal' circumstances.
 

Tavi

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@Tavi....would you happen to know of a source I could look up to see what others have done in fabricating brackets or possibly a subframe? I initially thought of a sub frame myself but didnt know if I could keep it localized to the rear portion of the leafs or if I would have to build a set for the front part to lower the whole leaf down.

Side note....banned or not, I apologize to any and all who I offended. Error was on me for the majority of this. A 2 inch discrepancy is why I asked this question. When searching for the answers, I saw the folks here seemed plenty helpful and thats why I signed up. I will refrain from any unnecessary comments. If I get banned, thanks for the lessons, burns, and knowledge.

No, I don’t. And I realize my drawing ability is limited and no nifty CAD program. But if you used @Biggershaft96 drop hangers, front and rear. And some sort of cross member to tie all of them together, I think you would be able to mitigate a lot of the twist applied to a single point.
 

Pighuntin

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That beam walk....I have that. But generally when braking while empty. At least for my truck. Since my truck normally carries a crap load of weight, The only time I get a vibration is when there is mud in the wheels. For re-inforcing the frame, I was figuring another ladder support once I get the new trans and transfer case in cause the normal 4x4s have the torsion bar support ladder.

The last part of my statement while I was thinking.....the 8" lift then using airbags to level out. Would that be more practical?
 
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