Rear Axle Lift-SOLVED-

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Biggershaft96

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You will not bring the shackles down 12” without custom fab work. You could re arch your “custom” springs but that might be do expensive or difficult. ASE certs mean zilch seeing that autozone trains and certifies their employees... This didnt start out as a pissing match, you turned it into one, so you can stick that dope diggy sick dog dope “custom” spring pack where the sun doesnt shine.

Also theres a 99% chance i could weld and machine circles around you, js.
 
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RichLo

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And just to stoke the fire a little, it took you 7 years to plan a fairly standard and well documented SAS that ended up being 4" higher than expected.... did you forget to measure the diameter of the axle housing AND the thickness of the spring pack during those 7 years of hard number crunching??? :wtf2:
 

magimerlin

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I'm with "Richlo" on this one now. You just lost ALL hope of getting any help from any of us. People are trying to give you a way of doing it to get it even close to your goal. You are shooting them down cause you WANT to keep things that are holding you back from getting there.

All I hear is,
I will not get rid of my springs as they handle what I need for hauling and towing..
here's a concept..... have a custom spring made that will match what you have and give you your spud amount of lift. Going THAT high with your current spring will make the whole axle pivot(via the front spring perch) forward and you will have tire clearance issues.
If you must use your springs cause your to stubborn to get correct ones made for the lift you WILL have to lower the front mounting point to help combat the above issue. As I mentioned in my post a bit above.
Will not use blocks... trucks have been using blocks for years with no axle wrap. Shoot, almost ALL the newer 3/4 ton trucks use blocks these days. We are not saying to use a 12" freaking block here. A 2"-3" block will work perfectly fine and help take up some of the lift you are looking for...

Remember K.I.S.S. i.e.-keep it simple stupid.




You really need to thicken your skin a bit. Being a keyboard warrior will not work here. If we know something WILL NOT work the way you want it to, it's probably because we have been there done that. If you can not handle it, well you know where the door is. You have 4 posts on here and besides you 1st post asking for advice all you seem to have done is tell people they are wrong. Well guess what, you can figure it out yourself now. Now we can ALL see why you really got NO HELP doing the front end all those years. No one wants to help you because you do not listen. All those years"PLANNING" and the front came out much higher then you expected. Well right there says your planning failed so that's the way the back half will most likeely go as well. rest of your build is doomed if you do not start paying attention... it is not rocket science to lift these trucks. Many bolt on items to get you close then will have to fab the rest to get you to where you want.

This is all constructive criticism. Take it as you will but this is all I'll say on the matter. No reason for name calling, bullying, or other keyboard warrior bullcrap. Input was asked for, input was giving. You didn't like it so you attacked the input givers. We all read what you wanted and didn't want. But we also know what will work and won't. But with that much wanted lift you will need to compromise somewhere. On the other hand. Maybe this place isn't for you with your process of thinking towards getting help but only if it agrees with you. If you do stay... please, please loosen up a bit. We all have done this a long time and from all walks of life and mechanical abilities and fab skills.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

1989GMCSIERRA

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Why don’t you build a subframe that welds/bolts to the frame at the rear bringing the leaf spring mounts down the amount needed for your lift.
If you see some of those mud swamper Florida trucks with a fully welded tube subframe with truss and cross truss tubing that’s welded to the original truck frame and have the leaf springs bolted to that subframe to gain the clearance needed to run the big tractor tires they run. Then you just bolt your super springs back on and don’t beed any blocks. Shouldn’t be that hard for a guy who is a ASE tech for 20 years.

And btw your crazy rant........really unneeded and reads like a petulant child wrote it. Plenty of guys on here are willing to help. I’ve had nothing but great feedback from guys on here.
 
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Pighuntin

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@NightRunner....Fine I am the ******* here. I dont know ****, I am wrong, everyone is right. I should never ever think out of the box. It brings the retard out in me cause then I have to ask questions no one wants to give answers to other than spend money for parts that wont work and end up with a truck you can use as intended. Got it.

I would like to thank EVERYONE for helping me. Instead of getting more knowledge by helping me, I will figure something out on my own and tell you all when you ask me what I did to screw off. Cause thats the help here.


Thanks.
 

joep88cheyenne

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I am not a techie has such just shade tree as that is the way I learned. If you were going to fab hangers I would go with the 5/16m and then add gussets below the frame and and a backside bracket support on the inside. Use the spring shackle brackets and have the spring side be long enough to attach the brackets to it bolted or welded. jmho YMMV.
 

Tavi

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@NightRunner....Fine I am the ******* here. I dont know ****, I am wrong, everyone is right. I should never ever think out of the box. It brings the retard out in me cause then I have to ask questions no one wants to give answers to other than spend money for parts that wont work and end up with a truck you can use as intended. Got it.

I would like to thank EVERYONE for helping me. Instead of getting more knowledge by helping me, I will figure something out on my own and tell you all when you ask me what I did to screw off. Cause thats the help here.


Thanks.

You are being obnoxious. Based on your comments, constant attacks on those attempting to give solid advice, and your self proclaimed failed fabrication. It appears your fabricating skills are limited to name calling.

If you are hoping for constructive criticism, submit your ideas and actually read the responses that were in fact, out of the box, and give feedback.

As mentioned you are limited to how you can go about this. The axle is currently attached to the frame at three points. You can either increase the distance between the points (longer springs) or the distance of any mounting points to the frame (blocks, shackle flip, front shackle exterior, or as mentioned earlier a subframe dropping the mounting points). You have selected to avoid springs and blocks. So a shackle flip and extension or a subframe. Both of which should be quick work for a master fabricator.

Best of luck.
 

BonestockK1500

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+1 on subframe fab to fill the desired lift gap seems like only logical solution, given the strict criteria and constraints.

But I truly know nothing and opinion is only worth what you paid for it. Still interested in seeing what the final solution is. Best of luck
 
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