valve adjustment
- Thread starter magimerlin
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Brad Macfarlane
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Supercharged111
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On some motors that'd work just fine.
Sleeper Van
Newbie
I've found that the best way to adjust the lifters is to do a basic by the book starting point. Then I do the final adjustment with the vechiel running. Yes I said running and I'll explain why: First off your going to need the clips that snap on to the rockers that keeps the oil from squirting all over the place. Any good auto parts store should be able to get you a set of 16 which comes on a self storing bracket and aren't very expensive. These clips easily snap on to the rockers and allow you to get to the adjustment nut. I always do one side at a time putting the other valve cover on. With the engine idealing and warm start by loosing the first one until you can hear it. Slowly tighten down until it just starts to quite down. When you can feel and hear it stop clicking turn it down just a quarter turn more and stop. Continue with the rest until all are done. Now that you've adjusted them all and none are clicking do it all again. This way you can be sure that each one is adjusted perfectly. This doesn't take long to do and you will be shocked by the results. You'll have much more power, throttle response will be fast and smooth. I have been doing it this way for the past 45+ years and it hasn't let me down yet!!! You'll think you put a different engine in with the increased power and 500-1500 more rpm you'll get from the engine. I know that it sounds more complicated than it is. The results are worth the time and purchase of the deflection clips. Good luck.
EOIC for hydraulic cams works great, takes WAY TOO MUCH TIME.
Fastest, simplest, easiest way to adjust hydraulic lifter preload with a camshaft having less than ~320 degrees advertised duration. (Damn near every hydraulic cam ever ground.)
Open hood. Mark damper at the timing pointer with a paint pen or magic marker. Damper position is not important. Damper DOES NOT have to be at TDC #1, but it can be if you want.
Loosen ALL the rocker adjusting nuts so the rockers have free-play.
Tighten ALL rocker adjusting nuts to "zero lash", the point where there's no free play in the pushrods. Some folks "spin" the pushrods to determine this, and I DO NOT recommend it. Guys with strong fingers will be spinning the pushrods long after they've tightened the nut to "zero lash". I look for up-down motion on the pushrods/rockers. When it's gone...you've found the zero lash point. Ideally, you'd have the intake manifold off so you can SEE the lifter preload, but this is not required.
Turn crankshaft EXACTLY ONE ROTATION. Verify this by looking at the mark you made previously--spin the crank around in the direction of normal engine rotation until the mark is in the same position as when you started.
SOME of the rockers will be loose again. Tighten ONLY the loose ones to zero lash.
Tighten ALL the rockers "your choice" of preload. Book spec is one full turn. Most folks I know go 1/2 turn. Be sure to lock the set screw if using polylock adjuster nuts.
Put the valve covers on. Have a beer. You're done.
Fastest, simplest, easiest way to adjust hydraulic lifter preload with a camshaft having less than ~320 degrees advertised duration. (Damn near every hydraulic cam ever ground.)
Open hood. Mark damper at the timing pointer with a paint pen or magic marker. Damper position is not important. Damper DOES NOT have to be at TDC #1, but it can be if you want.
Loosen ALL the rocker adjusting nuts so the rockers have free-play.
Tighten ALL rocker adjusting nuts to "zero lash", the point where there's no free play in the pushrods. Some folks "spin" the pushrods to determine this, and I DO NOT recommend it. Guys with strong fingers will be spinning the pushrods long after they've tightened the nut to "zero lash". I look for up-down motion on the pushrods/rockers. When it's gone...you've found the zero lash point. Ideally, you'd have the intake manifold off so you can SEE the lifter preload, but this is not required.
Turn crankshaft EXACTLY ONE ROTATION. Verify this by looking at the mark you made previously--spin the crank around in the direction of normal engine rotation until the mark is in the same position as when you started.
SOME of the rockers will be loose again. Tighten ONLY the loose ones to zero lash.
Tighten ALL the rockers "your choice" of preload. Book spec is one full turn. Most folks I know go 1/2 turn. Be sure to lock the set screw if using polylock adjuster nuts.
Put the valve covers on. Have a beer. You're done.
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