Just sharing a mod. I haven't tried any aftermarket 3rd brake lights/cargo lights, but I wasted a whole bunch of time COBbling (get it?) COB lights behind the factory 3rd brake light/cargo lens.
Comparison shot incandescent vs. LED board. Operating at full voltage, truck running. I know...
Finally did this, and it works great. I tore my truck all apart trying to find a different way to do it - this method is definitely the easiest and most effective. I made a mess trying to get creative with it. :jester:
I used a butt splice and opted for liquid tape to seal it from corrosion...
I've bought aftermarket components for years and it's fun to watch the accessories change with the times. I know I bought a set of 2005-popular JC Whitney tail lights that I liked enough to buy again for nostalgia sake when I saw them on eBay.
The reflector in the reverse light was excellent...
Thanks for following up on this. I know this thread is old, but there's lots of helpful info that we've discovered and tried over the years. Makes it easier for the next guy. :waytogo:
I apologize in advance if I'm not much help. But how picky are you on it being brand new? Only asking because another member has a chrome OEM one in our classifieds right now if you haven't seen it. :)
I don't have any experience with Holley's new ones. The former LMC Taiwanese...
I would've thought rebuild prices would have come down for those by now. The 5 speed truck transmissions (not the NAG1 like the cars) also costed $1,800 for a rebuild... And that was more than a decade ago!
That situation was on an EBL Flash with a smaller Comp "Computer Controlled," cam. I'm not sure if it was a band-aid for excessive cylinder pressure, fuel distribution, or another error on my part. ...Tuning slightly richer than textbook worked for me. :driver:
The big cam learning...
My apologies, looks like this was discussed maybe 40 pages ago and I entirely missed the memo. :rofl: These are just ideas...
Short version: if you're still showing knock at idle with your newly adjusted timing, try adding a little fuel and see if it reduces it or goes away. I'm not sure if...
I know this is a long thread, I'll have to look up your cam specs a little further.
Edit: I looked, and I spy 110° lobe separation. We'll also have to mind your plug heat range, static compression, and/or cylinder pressure. We might not be able to completely eliminate all false knocks...
More advance with a bigger cams are usually needed at idle. With more overlap and lower RPM, you'll net more knock counts. It sounds cooler with a rougher idle, but 20°+ will get you a smoother idle, more vacuum, and should achieve less knock.
Also, Comp typically grinds an additional 4° of...
Not uncommon where I live. I passed on a '93 full-size Blazer with 80,000 miles because it sat outside it's whole life as a plow truck. It was in similar shape.
No rockers (not exaggerating), all fenders had rust holes, floor was going...Frame, axle, rear floor, and control arms extremely...
That "anodized," kind of paint worked for me too. I used it on an intake manifold it was marketed by VHT as "Metalcast." It's basically color-tinted clearcoat. I wanted a dark red color, so I bought a can of purple, and a couple cans of red. A light coat of purple gave me a dark base on...