any reason the old style mirrors wouldn’t fit on newer trucks? Same pins right? I want to get rid of my plastic mirrors. The caps keep coming loose. My 2nd drivers side replacement just took a $hit. Plus I like the old school aesthetic of the 88-94 style mirrors
I have some input regarding salt on the roads. When I rebuilt my front end I wire wheeled the frame pretty good all around, sprayed rust converter on and top coated with Frame paint - the usual diy. That only lasts so long since it’s all rattle can stuff so I sealed all the work in with RP-342...
I’m upgrading to the NBS master cylinder and all of the rusty brake lines are being replaced also. Should I be using different size lines since I’m putting a newer master cylinder on? Thx for any advice
i have 95 k2500 5.7 std cab long bed. It’s 6 lug which makes me think it’s just a 1500 with 2500 springs but other wise doesn’t share any other goodies with 3/4 ton trucks. Would love some confirmation thx
in the post re: this it mentions using the corresponding weight class cylinder. My truck is a “heavy half ton” k2500. I’m assuming I still have 1500 guts. Correct me if I’m wrong. Thx
Also having trouble finding a booster. Can I just get the NBS booster? Will it bolt up? Thx
I bet the xj shaft ends weren’t orientated the same way in relation to each other compared to the stock shaft. That’s the only thing that would make sense in this scenario. I hope I don’t run into this. About to grab one for myself
im rebuilding the front end on my 95 Chevy k2500 std cab long bed.
I can’t seem to find the control arm bolts for upper and lower arms anywhere.
If anyone knows part numbers or has a source I’d appreciate it.
I have the stamped steel lowers if that makes any difference.
My 2500 has 6 Lug hubs...
I can order the smallest retainer or plastic cap for my truck and everyone makes 37 versions of it from here to Taiwan but a major component like a lower control arm is only made for 2 wheel drive trucks. Makes zero sense