Bought a CC Dually 454 Whipple

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Tavi

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I bought a piece of square stock from the hardware store. I want to say it’s 3/8. And just put an open end wrench on it. Worked perfectly.
 

Supercharged111

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Turns out Performance Tool sells a set that includes my bit, part number W54287. So after asking Airlift about the rotted out airbag endplates, I brought up the nut insert that ripped out of the 1 bag when removing said endplates. They sent me not 1, but 2 new bags with hardware! ****** eh!

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Got the new bags in with the painted/powdercoated hardware. Just need to source a functioning compressor. Since that failed due to BS install, I'm not going to press their warranty on that matter.

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Supercharged111

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I developed a valve tap in this thing and it appears a valve backed off for some reason. I've parked it until I delete all the valve rotators and ensure correct spring installed height. I measured 1.9, but that was to the lower lip on the rotator and was not accurate unbeknownst to me at the time. Once that's all good I'm going to measure for pushrods and get them ordered too. Hopefully the valvetrain shuts up. If not, I'll go for aftermarket lifters ( before doing pushrods though ).
 

Supercharged111

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I think we're OK here. The nut that backed off wasn't doing much in the way of locking. I went and bought a valve spring micrometer and found my springs are at 1.88", so good to go there.

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Deleted the rotators on the driver's side and put them down with 7/8 turn of preload and driver's side definitely sounds quieter than passenger side. I used all new lock nuts on the driver's side as well. Since the truck is again usable, it's full speed ahead to check out some campers and grab one before peak season. I'll try to get the passenger side done sooner than later as well, but at this point I'm leaning heavily toward some poly locks to keep things in place. Forgot to mention that I tried dropping a valve as I was ignoring the truck, luckily I was able to turn the motor by hand to push it back up.

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Christian Steffen

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I think we're OK here. The nut that backed off wasn't doing much in the way of locking. I went and bought a valve spring micrometer and found my springs are at 1.88", so good to go there.

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Deleted the rotators on the driver's side and put them down with 7/8 turn of preload and driver's side definitely sounds quieter than passenger side. I used all new lock nuts on the driver's side as well. Since the truck is again usable, it's full speed ahead to check out some campers and grab one before peak season. I'll try to get the passenger side done sooner than later as well, but at this point I'm leaning heavily toward some poly locks to keep things in place. Forgot to mention that I tried dropping a valve as I was ignoring the truck, luckily I was able to turn the motor by hand to push it back up.

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Poly locks are definitely worthwhile. I had nothing but issues with the stock style lock nuts after my rebuild.
 

Christian Steffen

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Did you fit some under the stock valve covers? If so, do you have a part number?
Yeah I got them to fit under the stock covers. I can't remember the part number, its been too long. But I feel like they were some of the shortest ones I could find on summit, and I think they were comp brand. Although I'm pretty sure @cool_as_crap tried some really short ones, and they were too short.
 

Supercharged111

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I did end up getting that socket set for the weird plugs on the cooler housing, came with a bunch of other weird stuff that may save my ass some day.

I also ordered up a rubber bed mat and tow mirrors.

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They appear to be plug and play and the pics show the extra bracket to hold them steady. Just need to bolt in the front tie downs, get this **** installed, and I'll be ready for a camper.
 
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