New crate motor?

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TommyJ1980

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Hey guys (and gals) - I have a 1998 K2500 5.7L with 250,000 miles on it. First of all, I just want to say that I appreciate the info and responses I've gotten very much. I've started to notice a few members in particular who take the time to respond, and I'm very thankful for that, I have benefited enormously just in the few months I've been here. That being said, please forgive my ignorance if it starts to show.

At this point, I have a known intake valve leak, and possibly blown head gasket. I've posted about the symptoms in another post, but this one is to throw out the idea of buying a new long block crate motor. I priced it out at O'reillys this evening, and I can get out, including core charge and tax, for $2,900 and change. At this point, I have already replaced the following parts, that are now new, attached to the existing motor:

Plugs and wires
Cap and rotor
Alternator
Radiator and hoses
Water pump
Thermostat
Coolant temp sensor in the thermostat housing

I have also done quite a bit of work to the front suspension, and replaced the steering gearbox, steering shaft, and rag joint.

Point being, I need to come to a decision on whether to tear into this motor, or to swap it out. It's also attractive to me that there is a 4 yr limited warranty on it. With so many things that have broken already on this truck (I haven't even had it a year yet), I am willing to pay three thousand dollars, to be able to know that my stuff works, reliably.

Lastly - off the top of your head, is there any specialty tools I would need for a swap, especially expensive ones? (besides the hoist).

Thanks in advance,

Tommy
 

TreeGeared

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I would shop around a little. 2900 may be a little high.

With 250k miles also consider what else you may want to replace. Spider injector, any questionable sensors come to mind. Fuel pump and lines would be a good step as well if you have it all apart. Don't think that if you just replace the long block that you will be trouble free. I tend to look at a project as if I am going to take everything apart what else should I replace while I am in there. There have been times where a part I did not replace failed shortly after and I had to take everything apart again. Or a part that "looked good" turned out to be bad and caused issues (knock sensor). A good manual can also show you how to check other components.

As for tools, a good torque wrench, a good service manual, clutch alignment tool if you have a manual trans. An engine leveler is not required but makes the job easier. A small bottle jack for adjusting trans height is handy. Drift punches for lining up holes. Hose clamp pliers if you do not want to drain the cooling system. Crankshaft balancer and power steering pulley pullers. These can be rented from autopart stores. Gasket scraper. Brake parts cleaner (cleaning surfaces before applying gaskets). Fuel line disconnect tools.
 

Caman96

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Easy/lower risk($) would be to find a used motor. Is rest of your truck worth investing 3k on new motor. Many variables, you know the condition of your truck. What value do you put on your truck right now as it sits?
This is just an example of another option:
 
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PlayingWithTBI

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I did a lot of research on short blocks when I spun a rod bearing. If you can find a GM Performance long block, go for it but, it'll be more than O'Reilly crap made by ATK and branded "Power Torque". Other brands are made by them too. Read some reviews. Most every after market engines are junk according to the reviews. Plus, lead times are way out there. That's why I wound up going with Blue Print Engines. If you can find a good machine shop nearby, get yours rebuilt. A much better way to go plus, you'll learn a lot just by asking questions during the rebuild. YMMV
 

Caman96

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I did a lot of research on short blocks when I spun a rod bearing. If you can find a GM Performance long block, go for it but, it'll be more than O'Reilly crap made by ATK and branded "Power Torque". Other brands are made by them too. Read some reviews. Most every after market engines are junk according to the reviews. Plus, lead times are way out there. That's why I wound up going with Blue Print Engines. If you can find a good machine shop nearby, get yours rebuilt. A much better way to go plus, you'll learn a lot just by asking questions during the rebuild. YMMV
Agree^^^ if you feel your truck is worth it. And I have no idea TommyJ1980 as to that. It’s tough, but, You got to know when to hold ‘em - know when to fold ‘em. :Rock on: Have you concluded your engine isn’t worth fixing?
 

RichLo

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It sounds like your ready to spend some money on a warrantied fresh rebuilt engine. I would agree with what's said above... Research, read reviews, search, search, search.

$3k isn't a drop in the bucket and you don't want to end up with a lemon that cant be warrantied because you did the swap yourself either. Make sure you'll be fine with their warranty by calling them and talking to a sales rep. And get their warranty in writing before you purchase.

In the end, the best one might not be below $3k but you'll know its the right one.
 

Caman96

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I did a lot of research on short blocks when I spun a rod bearing. If you can find a GM Performance long block, go for it but, it'll be more than O'Reilly crap made by ATK and branded "Power Torque". Other brands are made by them too. Read some reviews. Most every after market engines are junk according to the reviews. Plus, lead times are way out there. That's why I wound up going with Blue Print Engines. If you can find a good machine shop nearby, get yours rebuilt. A much better way to go plus, you'll learn a lot just by asking questions during the rebuild. YMMV
Plus we’re talking Truck of the Year here! :hail:
All Hail the King!
:gm:
 

Erin

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I did a lot of research on short blocks when I spun a rod bearing. If you can find a GM Performance long block, go for it but, it'll be more than O'Reilly crap made by ATK and branded "Power Torque". Other brands are made by them too. Read some reviews. Most every after market engines are junk according to the reviews. Plus, lead times are way out there. That's why I wound up going with Blue Print Engines. If you can find a good machine shop nearby, get yours rebuilt. A much better way to go plus, you'll learn a lot just by asking questions during the rebuild. YMMV
I second this. When I was shopping, I opted to go with a crate engine from GM directly. It was more expensive but it was all new, no rebuilt parts. It came with valve covers, oil pan, timing cover. I may have missed a part or two but you should get the general idea.
 

Macs Garage

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18 months ago I was in the same boat. Rebuilt engines were hard so I went with a new GM engine 5.7 HD make for 3/4 ton and larger. Cost me 4k for the engine. The shop I go to has a GM certified mechanic so I get the 3 year 100k warranty. They charged $700 to install. Before you go for a rebuilt one make sure the warranty isn't void by putting it in a 2500 or doing it your self. The shop said buying a rebuilt was a crap shoot and if it was bad the warranty didn't cover labor. My total bill was probably more than the truck is worth, but considering what it would cost to upgrade to another truck I will be money ahead and I know what I got.
 

Hipster

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Agree with everything said. In most cases if it's not installed by a licensed shop it nullifies the warranty and the warranties can be fairly bogus.

I wouldn't be so quick to cash out on a new engine just yet without determining the condition of the engine you have. Ie, compression test possibly followed by a leakdown test. Maybe you don't have the tools or skills at this point but I have put quite a few back into service with a dingle ball honed, bearing and re-ring, cam set, oil pump, gasket rebuild. Possibly a set of remanned heads.
 
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