My first suspension rebuild, have questions

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Erik the Awful

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The best method for getting tie rod ends and ball joints loose is to smack both sides of the steering knuckle with your largest hammers simultaneously. If it doesn't pop loose, you aren't hitting it hard enough. However, when I rebuilt my suspension there was one ball joint I couldn't hit hard enough to pop loose. I pulled the knuckle and control arm out as one, chucked them up in my bench vise, and hit the ball joint with my air hammer.
 

Kens1990K2500

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I put Mevotech TTX upper/lower ball joints, TTX inner/outer tie rods, TTX end links, idler/bracket, pitman……. all got Red’N’Tacky pumped in with install last spring. With a few greasing’s, it’s all red grease coming out. I have zero concern of them all failing because I changed the grease.
Did some of your tie rod ends have green paint on the threads? My inners did; I had to use a wire wheel to clean the paint off, so the adjuster and lock nut would thread on. A guy on YouTube (Suburban Ranch) had the same issue. What was Mevotech thinking!? (besides using oddball grease)
 

Kens1990K2500

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The best method for getting tie rod ends and ball joints loose is to smack both sides of the steering knuckle with your largest hammers simultaneously. If it doesn't pop loose, you aren't hitting it hard enough. However, when I rebuilt my suspension there was one ball joint I couldn't hit hard enough to pop loose. I pulled the knuckle and control arm out as one, chucked them up in my bench vise, and hit the ball joint with my air hammer.
The end that has to come out is not on the knuckle, but the relay rod/center rod, or whatever you call it. What then?
 

Caman96

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Did some of your tie rod ends have green paint on the threads? My inners did; I had to use a wire wheel to clean the paint off, so the adjuster and lock nut would thread on. A guy on YouTube (Suburban Ranch) had the same issue. What was Mevotech thinking!? (besides using oddball grease)
That was the overspray from green finish. Yeah a little wire wheel action needed.
 

Schurkey

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if I have to remove the nut to add washers or a spacer, I will need to remove the tie rod stud from the female taper, since I am technically loosening the nut?
Yes. ANY time you loosen/remove the nut holding a tapered stud, the stud has to be broken-free and re-torqued.

And what is the correct tool to remove a tie rod end without damaging the boot? I know enough not to use a 'pickle fork' to separate parts I want to re-use, but I don't know the best tool to use to not damage the part.
See below.

I'm aware of grease compatibility charts, but none of them mention "nano-ceramic" grease...

...I'm going to call Mevotech again and ask for the actual brand/manufacturer of the grease they use on their parts. I'd really like to use the exact same grease, because I don't like the idea of mixing greases.

I put Mevotech TTX upper/lower ball joints, TTX inner/outer tie rods, TTX end links, idler/bracket, pitman……. all got Red’N’Tacky pumped in with install last spring. With a few greasing’s, it’s all red grease coming out. I have zero concern of them all failing because I changed the grease.
Flushing the original grease and using whatever grease you can source reliably is a fine idea. Saves 'phone calls, too.

The best method for getting tie rod ends and ball joints loose is to smack both sides of the steering knuckle with your largest hammers simultaneously. If it doesn't pop loose, you aren't hitting it hard enough. However, when I rebuilt my suspension there was one ball joint I couldn't hit hard enough to pop loose. I pulled the knuckle and control arm out as one, chucked them up in my bench vise, and hit the ball joint with my air hammer.
I know that this is common. It's almost universal.

It makes me crazy. Smacking steel parts (typically forged) are bad enough. Smacking iron castings (GMT400 and GMT360/370 steering knuckles, for instance) seems to me to be a really bad idea.

Back in 2011, I got a "Front End Service Set" from the loaner-tool program at the local NAPA. I liked it so much that I just bought it from them. That set was made for KD (renamed Gearwrench) in Taiwan. That same set was sold by OTC and others; and has since been knocked-off in Communist China and is sold under about two dozen brand names. The two pieces I used the most finally wore-out; NAPA warrantied the entire set rather than replace the two pieces I needed. These or similar tools may be on other parts-stores "Loaner-Tool" program.

KD--Gearwrench tool set p/n 41690
www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-41690-Front-End-Service/dp/B000TDCCHW/ref=sr_1_1?crid=DRWYKLTM5YQE

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Ball joints on '66--'78 Toronado are not much different from GMT400. This tool on a GMT400 is about at the limit of it's size range. Could be larger, but isn't.
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Tie rod ends, or joints on the center link handled with this guy.
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These tools push directly on the threaded, tapered stud. ZERO damage to all parts involved.

Compare to my Trailblazer when the lower ball joint was separated in order to install a CV axle by a repair shop that shall remain nameless. They hit the cast iron steering knuckle, off-center, and hard enough to raise a big burr. I had a heck of a time getting my tool in place with that burr on the steering knuckle.

[Sorry--Photo of Trailblazer ball joint replacement on another computer IF I can get that computer fired-up again, I'll edit this post or start another.]
 
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Kens1990K2500

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I put Mevotech TTX upper/lower ball joints, TTX inner/outer tie rods, TTX end links, idler/bracket, pitman……. all got Red’N’Tacky pumped in with install last spring. With a few greasing’s, it’s all red grease coming out. I have zero concern of them all failing because I changed the grease.
I called Mevotech again, spoke to a different rep, and still couldn't get a definite answer as to the exact type/brand of grease they use. So, I've given up on this wild goose (grease) chase and am just gonna fill 'em up with my common, red chassis grease.

I apologize to everyone who had to endure my OCD regarding chassis grease. I won't talk about grease anymore in this thread (or any other thread, for that matter).
 

Kens1990K2500

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Yes. ANY time you loosen/remove the nut holding a tapered stud, the stud has to be broken-free and re-torqued.


See below.




Flushing the original grease and using whatever grease you can source reliably is a fine idea. Saves 'phone calls, too.


I know that this is common. It's almost universal.

It makes me crazy. Smacking steel parts (typically forged) are bad enough. Smacking iron castings (GMT400 and GMT360/370 steering knuckles, for instance) seems to me to be a really bad idea.

Back in 2011, I got a "Front End Service Set" from the loaner-tool program at the local NAPA. I liked it so much that I just bought it from them. That set was made for KD (renamed Gearwrench) in Taiwan. That same set was sold by OTC and others; and has since been knocked-off in Communist China and is sold under about two dozen brand names. The two pieces I used the most finally wore-out; NAPA warrantied the entire set rather than replace the two pieces I needed. These or similar tools may be on other parts-stores "Loaner-Tool" program.

KD--Gearwrench tool set p/n 41690
www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-41690-Front-End-Service/dp/B000TDCCHW/ref=sr_1_1?crid=DRWYKLTM5YQE

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
You must be registered for see images attach


Ball joints on '66--'78 Toronado are not much different from GMT400. This tool on a GMT400 is about at the limit of it's size range. Could be larger, but isn't.
You must be registered for see images attach


Tie rod ends, or joints on the center link handled with this guy.
You must be registered for see images attach


These tools push directly on the threaded, tapered stud. ZERO damage to all parts involved.

Compare to my Trailblazer when the lower ball joint was separated in order to install a CV axle by a repair shop that shall remain nameless. They hit the cast iron steering knuckle, off-center, and hard enough to raise a big burr. I had a heck of a time getting my tool in place with that burr on the steering knuckle.

[Sorry--Photo of Trailblazer ball joint replacement on another computer IF I can get that computer fired-up again, I'll edit this post or start another.]
Thanks for the detailed advice. Again, I really appreciate it. I'm going to order that tool kit; I want to do things the right way.

Oh, and I said in another reply that I'm just going to use the grease I have and not worry about it.
 
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