My first suspension rebuild, have questions

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Kens1990K2500

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This is my first time doing front suspension work. I have already disassembled most of my front end. Now that I have all the parts, I am about to start installing new stuff. Parts being replaced are as follows: CV axles; upper control arms; upper and lower ball joints; inner and outer tie rods with adjusting sleeves; shocks; sway bar bushings and end links. The steering knuckles (spindles) and hub assemblies are off the truck; I cleaned them up, but otherwise reinstalling them as is.

Here's my questions (BTW, I do have a factory service manual for my truck, but it doesn't have many details):

A) What is the best order to reinstall the above parts? I am particularly concerned with not tearing up the new boots on my CV axles, and not struggling with getting the axle into the splines on the hub.

B) Any tips/advice for installing ball joints? I've never done 'em before, and I'm concerned about not tightening them correctly, and breaking a stud on a ball joint. Does breaking a stud happen if they're too loose, or too tight? Also, I've read you should not put any grease on the tapered portion of the ball joint stud. Is that correct?

C) Is is good practice to add grease to new ball joints and tie rod ends? (Brand I'm using is Mevotech TTX). I know that some types of grease cannot be mixed, or else the grease will degrade and prematurely wear out the part. I use the red chassis grease (not sure of the specs or brand). Is this safe to use with my new parts?

D) I loosened my torsion bars before removing parts. When should I re-tighten the torsion bars?

E) When putting in the upper control arms, I think I am supposed to snug the bolts, but not fully tighten them until the tires are on the ground (truck at ride height). Is that correct?

F) I removed the knockouts on the UCA brackets, and have the alignment camber bolts. I know I will need to get an alignment, but for now, should I set the bolts at mid-range so the truck is drivable?

Thanks in advance
 

454cid

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I would not replace the original cv shafts unless they are truly bad. The originals are built far better than any of the cheap Chinese replacements.
 

Kens1990K2500

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I would not replace the original cv shafts unless they are truly bad. The originals are built far better than any of the cheap Chinese replacements.
Agreed. They are the original ones, which I had reconditioned by a specialty shop.
 

Caman96

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If manual doesn’t give you torque specs for your 1990 K2500 a simple Google search should. Did you measure tie rod assembly length before disassembling? Build these on bench. TTX was a great choice. I use red grease in mine too.
 
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Schurkey

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Now that I have all the parts, I am about to start installing new stuff. Parts being replaced are as follows: CV axles; upper control arms; upper and lower ball joints; inner and outer tie rods with adjusting sleeves; shocks; sway bar bushings and end links. The steering knuckles (spindles) and hub assemblies are off the truck; I cleaned them up, but otherwise reinstalling them as is.
You're missing some items. There's no better time to install new lower control arm bushings or fresh shock absorbers. Verify the condition of the bump-stops for the upper control arms (My '88 had missing bump stops. Didn't realize they were gone until I saw a truck that still had 'em.) At least check the Pitman arm and idler arm for looseness. Fresh bushings for the sway bar, including end-links. The steering-gear rag joint is probably totalled; there's a huge-long thread about replacing the rag joint with a steering shaft having a U-joint.
www.gmt400.com/threads/xj-steering-shaft-upgrade-88-94-trucks-95-instructions-on-page-31.12087/


When it was me, I skipped past the Jeep shaft. Used the Genuine GM shaft from the C3500HD, and the lower bolt to match. Photos and part numbers are in that thread.

When I do control arm bushings, I use Polyurethane bushing inserts. Easier for a D-I-Y to install because there's no press or special tooling needed except for a propane torch to melt-out the old rubber bushing. Leave the original bushing shell in place unless it's damaged. The bushing shells "can" be damaged, but rarely are.

A) What is the best order to reinstall the above parts? I am particularly concerned with not tearing up the new boots on my CV axles, and not struggling with getting the axle into the splines on the hub.
MOSTLY it doesn't matter.

I would be tempted to install the idler arm (if needed) as one of the first things to go "back in".

Steering box is probably going to come out to replace the Pitman arm (if needed) and I'd rather be done with that before all the other crap gets in the way--center link, tie rods, sway bar, etc.

Lower control arms/bushings reinstalled, lower ball joint connected to the steering knuckle, and then the CV shafts--BEFORE the sway-bar links go on, or there's no room to get the CV shafts in place. Might be nice to have the center link and tie rods not in the way of the CV shafts as well.

After that, I don't think it makes a bit of difference, except that the lower BJ has to be in the steering knuckle, and the outer CV joint passing through the hub, before the upper control arm gets connected. You'll probably have to jack-up the lower arm to get the upper arm ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.

B) Any tips/advice for installing ball joints? I've never done 'em before, and I'm concerned about not tightening them correctly, and breaking a stud on a ball joint. Does breaking a stud happen if they're too loose, or too tight? Also, I've read you should not put any grease on the tapered portion of the ball joint stud. Is that correct?
Follow instructions that come with the ball joints to get them into the lower control arms. You didn't mention WHICH style of lower arm you have--there's two kinds of press-fit ball joints, and a bolt-in ball joint style. In any event, I shove a small Allen wrench into the cotter-pin hole of the ball joint stud, and twist/wiggle the stud so the cotter pin hole is aligned front/rear of the vehicle--so that ten years from now, I can get the bent, rusty cotter pin back out. Do this BEFORE you cram the stud into the tapered hole.

NO LUBE on the ball joint tapered stud, including the threads and nut. Make sure the tapered hole the stud goes into is clean and dry, and not damaged. The service manual has a MINIMUM torque spec, which might be 90 ft/lbs but you should verify. IF (big IF) the castle nut aligns with the cotter-pin hole at whatever the minimum torque spec is, shove the cotter pin in and call it good. More likely, you will have to TIGHTEN the nut NOT MORE than 1/6 turn (one flat) to achieve alignment, and then shove the cotter in. If you turn too far, you have to separate the ball joint stud from the tapered hole, and start over. You don't want to have to do that.

***DO NOT EVER back-off (loosen) the tapered-stud nut unless you separate the stud from the hole and start over.***

Studs are far more likely to break from being loose, than too tight. If the stud is loose, it'll also damage the tapered hole, and then you're probably looking at replacing the steering knuckle or whatever the tapered stud fits into.

C) Is is good practice to add grease to new ball joints and tie rod ends? (Brand I'm using is Mevotech TTX). I know that some types of grease cannot be mixed, or else the grease will degrade and prematurely wear out the part. I use the red chassis grease (not sure of the specs or brand). Is this safe to use with my new parts?
There's no knowing what grease the manufacturer used. Total crap-shoot.

Pump in your preferred grease (must be rated LB, #2, but is often LB/GC, #2) and hope for the best.

D) I loosened my torsion bars before removing parts. When should I re-tighten the torsion bars?
I don't bother loosening them. I guess you could put them back to your "best guess" of where they were. When you have the vehicle off the jack-stands on level ground, bounce the thing a couple times. If you have ANY bonded-rubber (OEM-style) control arm bushings, you'll want the fasteners barely-snug--no gap, but not at all tight. And then you need to check your service manual for setting the "Z" height. The torsion bar adjuster screws are what controls the "Z" height.

E) When putting in the upper control arms, I think I am supposed to snug the bolts, but not fully tighten them until the tires are on the ground (truck at ride height). Is that correct?
AFTER you have achieved proper "Z" height, fully-tighten the fasteners on the rubber control arm bushings--upper and lower if they're both rubber.

POLY bushings can be tightened at any suspension position--another reason I like 'em.

F) I removed the knockouts on the UCA brackets, and have the alignment camber bolts. I know I will need to get an alignment, but for now, should I set the bolts at mid-range so the truck is drivable?
I mark the position of the camber bolts before I remove them. Then put them back where they were as a baseline for the drive to the alignment shop. But if you don't know where they were before, mid-range is OK.

Similarly, as has been mentioned already--the tie rods (inner, outer, plus the sleeve) ought to be the SAME stud-to-stud length as the ones you removed. Make sure the tie rod adjuster sleeve clamps face the proper direction. Makes a difference on some vehicles, no difference on others.
 
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Kens1990K2500

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If manual doesn’t give you torque specs for your 1990 K2500 a simple Google search should. Did you measure tie rod assembly length before disassembling? Build these on bench. TTX was a great choice. I use red grease in mine too.
Yes, factory manual has torque specs. As for tie rods, I saved the old assemblies, and will prefab the new assemblies, matching the same length. TTX definitely looks heavy duty and high quality.
 

Kens1990K2500

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You're missing some items. There's no better time to install new lower control arm bushings or fresh shock absorbers. Verify the condition of the bump-stops for the upper control arms (My '88 had missing bump stops. Didn't realize they were gone until I saw a truck that still had 'em.) At least check the Pitman arm and idler arm for looseness. Fresh bushings for the sway bar, including end-links. The steering-gear rag joint is probably totaled.
I do have new shocks, sway bar bushings and sway bar end links (I must've forgotten to list them earlier). Being a rust belt truck, the bump stops were missing because the brackets were rotted; I had to fabricate and weld new brackets (I will post a detailed thread on this in the future). So it now has new bump stops.

I decided not to replace the lower control arm bushings because a) they don't look too bad, and don't creak; and b) I am working on my truck in the driveway, in my 'spare' time, and am trying to beat the weather. I'm fortunate it hasn't really snowed, and been relatively warm, but that's bound to change, so I'm up against a time crunch trying to get this truck back together before winter really arrives.

Steering doesn't have much slop. Idler arm and bracket were replaced about a year ago, but I should inspect the pitman arm.

Lower control arms/bushings reinstalled, lower ball joint connected to the steering knuckle, and then the CV shafts--BEFORE the sway-bar links go on, or there's no room to get the CV shafts in place. Might be nice to have the center link and tie rods not in the way of the CV shafts as well.

After that, I don't think it makes a bit of difference, except that the lower BJ has to be in the steering knuckle, and the outer CV joint passing through the hub, before the upper control arm gets connected. You'll probably have to jack-up the lower arm to get the upper arm ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.

Follow instructions that come with the ball joints to get them into the lower control arms. You didn't mention WHICH style of lower arm you have--there's two kinds of press-fit ball joints, and a bolt-in ball joint style. In any event, I shove a small Allen wrench into the cotter-pin hole of the ball joint stud, and twist/wiggle the stud so the cotter pin hole is aligned front/rear of the vehicle--so that ten years from now, I can get the bent, rusty cotter pin back out. Do this BEFORE you cram the stud into the tapered hole.
I started on the drivers side. I installed the lower ball joint in the control arm first. Second, I installed the shocks, after I had to grind the corner of the bump stop bracket I fabricated because it barely cleared the shock. Third, I installed the CV axle to the output shaft, then slipped the knuckle onto the lower BJ stud and axle splines. I prealigned the hole for the cotter pin, then torqued the lower BJ stud to factory specs (94 ft lbs). I then installed the upper control arm, but had to use a wrench instead of a socket, because a socket and ratchet won't fit in there because of the boot. But then I realized, how will I measure torque?

There's no knowing what grease the manufacturer used. Total crap-shoot. Pump in your preferred grease (must be rated LB, #2, but is often LB/GC, #2) and hope for the best.
I actually called Mevotech tech support Monday; they said the red grease meeting the #2 spec is fine. They recommended one pump from a manual grease gun. Not sure if that's enough grease? How can you tell when to stop pumping a manual grease gun?

I don't bother loosening them. I guess you could put them back to your "best guess" of where they were. When you have the vehicle off the jack-stands on level ground, bounce the thing a couple times. If you have ANY bonded-rubber (OEM-style) control arm bushings, you'll want the fasteners barely-snug--no gap, but not at all tight. And then you need to check your service manual for setting the "Z" height. The torsion bar adjuster screws are what controls the "Z" height.
I did mark the torsion bar bolts before I loosened them.

I mark the position of the camber bolts before I remove them. Then put them back where they were as a baseline for the drive to the alignment shop. But if you don't know where they were before, mid-range is OK.
It didn't have camber bolts before. I removed the knockouts as part of this work. I'll set them mid-range.

Similarly, as has been mentioned already--the tie rods (inner, outer, plus the sleeve) ought to be the SAME stud-to-stud length as the ones you removed. Make sure the tie rod adjuster sleeve clamps face the proper direction. Makes a difference on some vehicles, no difference on others.
I bought the adjusters from Cunningham Machine; these are not directional.

Thank you for replying. I appreciate the detail you put into your responses. Look forward to your responses to my responses to your responses.
 

Schurkey

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I decided not to replace the lower control arm bushings because a) they don't look too bad, and don't creak; and b) I am working on my truck in the driveway, in my 'spare' time, and am trying to beat the weather.
I completely understand that.

Steering doesn't have much slop. Idler arm and bracket were replaced about a year ago, but I should inspect the pitman arm.
:)

I then installed the upper control arm, but had to use a wrench instead of a socket, because a socket and ratchet won't fit in there because of the boot. But then I realized, how will I measure torque?
Much as I hate to say this...you're probably NOT going to measure the torque, except by using your Torque Wrench Wrist and whatever tool (combination wrench?) will fit in there.

Properly torque other ball joints you can get a torque-wrench on. Use that as a comparison for the force needed to torque the nuts you can't get a torque wrench on.

I don't like this...but sometimes y' gotta do what y' gotta do. Which, if you're really determined, would likely involve using a torque adapter of the proper wrench size. Good luck. I have some torque adapters, but nothing that huge. If the torque adapter is positioned exactly 90 degrees to the side of the torque wrench, no compensation is needed for the torque setting. Any other position will require math, and increasing or reducing the torque wrench setting as appropriate depending on the angle of the adapter in relation to the handle of the torque wrench.

www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J5100-Torque-Adapter/dp/B001HWEAAG/ref=sr_1_10?crid=LUOCGH7MWRMH

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In going to Amazon to look for an example of a Torque Adapter wrench, I also discovered that there are adapters that clamp-on to an ordinary wrench. If you've got room to swing a wrench AND the torque wrench, I suppose this could be useful. I have a suspicion that there's too much in the way, and getting the thing clamped-on the wrench and the whole mess rotating in limited clearance would be just too much hassle.

www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0380-Adjustable-Adapter/dp/B000GZND2Q/ref=sr_1_1?crid=LUOCGH7MWRMH

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

I actually called Mevotech tech support Monday; they said the red grease meeting the #2 spec is fine. They recommended one pump from a manual grease gun. Not sure if that's enough grease? How can you tell when to stop pumping a manual grease gun?
1. First Guess: They have no idea about various grease formulations not being compatible with one another, so...
2. ...all they understand is squeezing in some additional chassis grease (LB*, or LB/GC**) of the correct viscosity (#2***).
3. When it's me, I push in enough grease to inflate the boot, or to bleed out the vent in the boot depending on the boot style. The most-recent ball joints I've installed use a permanently-installed "flat" rubber seal with a grease outlet vent. I think that style is a Moog exclusive. Anyway, typically takes several pumps of a pistol-grip grease gun.


* "L" is chassis grease, suitable for ball joints, U-joints, kingpins, etc. LA and LB are quality/performance grades of chassis grease, with LB being "better" than LA.

** "G" is wheel bearing grease, suitable for for the higher temperatures caused by the heat from higher-speed friction and (especially) the brakes. GA, GB, and GC are quality/performance grades of wheel bearing grease, with GC being "better" than the other two.

*** The numbering system for grease viscosity goes from "00" to 5, with 00 being pretty runny, 5 being like cheese. #2 is the most-common, kinda like butter.

It's REALLY common for grease to be dual-rated, LB AND GC, and usually LB/GC #2.
 
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Kens1990K2500

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Much as I hate to say this...you're probably NOT going to measure the torque, except by using your Torque Wrench Wrist and whatever tool (combination wrench?) will fit in there.

So, I found a way to properly torque the upper ball joint stud (with a torque wrench and socket). It needs to be done before the CV axle is installed. Tonight, I worked on the passenger side, in the following order: installed steering knuckle/hub assembly on lower BJ stud. Installed upper control arm (with upper BJ), just hand-tightened the UCA bolts, and snugged the nut for the upper BJ stud. Then torqued lower BJ nut. Torqued upper BJ nut. Removed the bolts holdlng the UCA to the frame, and pulled the knuckle away from the frame, which then allowed me to insert the axle splines into the hub. Then reinstalled the UCA bolts.

I had already installed the driver's side CV axle from two days ago, so I removed it and I could properly torque that side's upper ball joint.

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1. First Guess: They have no idea about various grease formulations not being compatible with one another, so...
2. ...all they understand is squeezing in some additional chassis grease (LB*, or LB/GC**) of the correct viscosity (#2***).
3. When it's me, I push in enough grease to inflate the boot, or to bleed out the vent in the boot depending on the boot style. The most-recent ball joints I've installed use a permanently-installed "flat" rubber seal with a grease outlet vent. I think that style is a Moog exclusive. Anyway, typically takes several pumps of a pistol-grip grease gun.


* "L" is chassis grease, suitable for ball joints, U-joints, kingpins, etc. LA and LB are quality/performance grades of chassis grease, with LB being "better" than LA.

** "G" is wheel bearing grease, suitable for for the higher temperatures caused by the heat from higher-speed friction and (especially) the brakes. GA, GB, and GC are quality/performance grades of wheel bearing grease, with GC being "better" than the other two.

*** The numbering system for grease viscosity goes from "00" to 5, with 00 being pretty runny, 5 being like cheese. #2 is the most-common, kinda like butter.

It's REALLY common for grease to be dual-rated, LB AND GC, and usually LB/GC #2.
 

Kens1990K2500

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When it's me, I push in enough grease to inflate the boot, or to bleed out the vent in the boot depending on the boot style. The most-recent ball joints I've installed use a permanently-installed "flat" rubber seal with a grease outlet vent. I think that style is a Moog exclusive. Anyway, typically takes several pumps of a pistol-grip grease gun.
Although I figured out how to torque the upper BJ, I ran into another problem: When I went to grease the ball joints, the fittings did not take grease. Instead, the grease just piled up outside the fitting. What would cause this? It was cold, but not that cold.
 
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