Understanding marine dbw vs cable misc.

[JeremyNH]

I have had 24x for a while and have had zero issues which seems the overwhelming if not unanimous consensus if you look at the 24x sticky. It's more of a reliability improvement than a performance one though (don't disagree with me on this forum - write your article to Motor Trend and try to persuade manufacturers to roll back two decades of technology in favor of re-installing distributors under hood and see what happens). Performance wise you'll saturate a coil firing 4 times per rev before you will a coil firing 1/2 times per rev but that's a high rpm thing so by-and-large inapplicable to how I drive my truck. If I already had 24x parts I wouldn't even consider a distributor for a new build. And I do in fact have 24x parts and am not considering a distributor for my in-progress 390 build (3.8" stroke .040 over) which is really just a reluctor wheel since the coils, mounts, and cam sensor will migrate over from my 350 when I do the swap next year.

 

[Singlecab]

After three weeks of waiting and being told various things along the way...my marine intake arrived. It looks pretty good, but being on a boat, and as old as it is, there is a good bit of corrosion in the coolant passages, and some actual missing material at the mating surface area. Anyway it arrived without a regulator in the rail. The only ones I see online are between 30 and 45psi. I think I’m looking for 60. I paid 350 plus tax and shipping for 8 injectors, and the stock rail, so I’d hate to chunk the rail and go spend another 5-700 on new rails and regulator. The injectors were supposedly checked on a stand, and did have an odd odor and film on them that made me think that may have actually happened. The guy I bought this stuff from comes across pretty honest. So I’m 900 all in on upper, lower, rail, and injectors....minus a regulator. He said the injectors were 28’s, but I never got a supply pressure number from him. The part number on the injector is 12567905 on one side, and 0280156081 on the other. They are 4 hole. Best I can gather is they are EV6. I really have appreciated the feedback. Let me know how I did

 

[Supercharged111]

I think I used a regulator for a Series II 3800. Just get a bigger injector if that isn't enough. That said, I seem to recall the 454 regulator looking like it would have for the marine rail just fine and it runs 60ish.

 

[Singlecab]

Yeah I’m just sorta trying to keep this whole s$$t show under some financial control is the only reason I was inquiring on the injectors. I want a return regulator as well, so if the injectors don’t pan out then I just wasted 400 bucks including shipping. I didn’t know he was “having them tested”, nor did I realize how the regulator is integrated into the rail. Thanks for the info on the regulator!

 

[Supercharged111]

Make sure to tell your tuner that this intake will want more transient fuel and that it will also need more fuel in open loop while warming up. Those are 2 quirks that will adversely affect drivability if left unchecked.

 

[JeremyNH]

Regarding your injectors 0280156081 is the Bosch number and is the same as the injectors that came with my manifold. I replaced them with new Denso's as the guy I got my manifold from made no promises regarding their operation. They flow 24.4 lb/hr at 43psi so 28 lb/hr at the 60 psi setting of the regulator which is likely what the seller was referring to but you can look up the flow numbers with the Bosch PN. With regards to the regulator I took a look at mine and the only thing visible on the front is "Made in Germany" but I remember there being numbers on the barrel along with "4.0 bar". Unfortunately they're not visible with the manifold installed. I remember looking into it years back when I did my manifold swap and it was mentioned that the FPR is a Bosch model and the Made in Germany label supports that. I did a google search and came up with this at Amazon:

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It's not Bosch but it lists the substitute PNs if you want to stay with OEM. A note though that if you think AC Delco or GMPP is expensive try buying something from Mercruiser or Volvo/Penta.

It looks like the jackass that sold you the manifold took the retaining clip as well. You'll need something like this to hold the FPR in place:

‎https://weberpower.com/parts-weber-bosch-fuel-pressure-regulator-clip.html

You'll need a MAP sensor as that too is gone. Use the Bosch TMAP 1bar sensor that the manifold was equipped with OEM and a repair harness to match the power/signal/ground wire (leave the T terminal open) vice screwing around with trying to modify a Vortec MAP to fit the manifold. It looks like the hose barb that was installed at the Vortec EGR port has been removed which is good since Mercruiser used red loctite on the threads so it was a pain for me to get out. The EGR port requires a 5/8 male inverted flair fitting so have fun with that. It's an easy (sort of) work around if you keep your EGR but if you're going to just plug it I'll save some keyboard time on something irrelevant to you. But 5/8 flare is the thread type at the EGR port.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

My marine intake has an inexpensive adjustable regulator for a LS1 Vette on it.

 

[Singlecab]

What are these intakes worth? The one I ended up with has significant pitting and material loss around the coolant ports. I’m considering purchasing the other intake this guy has that appears much nicer in these areas. Before I get carried away further, I’m just curious what these things are actually worth.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

What are these intakes worth? The one I ended up with has significant pitting and material loss around the coolant ports. I’m considering purchasing the other intake this guy has that appears much nicer in these areas. Before I get carried away further, I’m just curious what these things are actually worth.

They definitely breathe alot better with all the fuel system stuff out of the incoming air. With the small cam I had at the time, mine went from falling on its face at 5,200 to where it wanted to be shifted at 6,200.

 

[Singlecab]

I mean in terms of money what are they worth. The first round got me the “tested” injectors, fuel rail, and upper plentum, and intake for 900. I’m now considering purchasing his other upper plentum and intake bare for 400 shipped to my door. Am I in the safe zone? I’m sure the intake I got is fine, but I want perfect