Instant orange peel.

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Hipster

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I see. I'm also conflicted. Rustoleum has never caused a problem for me until today. My F-I-L called earlier today and well, he has been doing bodywork his whole life. My Wife explained what was going on, at which point FIL said strip all the paint off with aircraft stripper, just don't let it sit. Then, bring it over.

Also, it's not a bumper. It's a header panel. The bumper to that car weighs about 150 lbs. Fekkkin ridiculous.
brother you don't want to put aircraft stripper on a header panel. fiberglass/SMC will turn into a mess. Fiberglass/SMC can be quite porous. Even the stripper that designated for plastics and smc type compounds can create issues. Get it painted it might look fine. Park it in the sun and it might blister up like herpes.
 
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GoToGuy

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Orange peel, it looks like the surface of an orange. Gradual dips and valleys, uneven. You have wrinkles / cracks. Orange peel is an application technique problem usually. Wrinkles are incompatible materials being used, a chemical reaction. Also he happens when undercoat material is still gassing off solvents/ VOC's.
 

DeCaff2007

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brother you don't want to put aircraft stripper on a header panel. fiberglass/SMC will turn into a mess. Fiberglass/SMC can be quite porous. Even the stripper that designated for plastics and smc type compounds can create issues. Get it painted it might look fine. Park it in the sun and it might blister up like herpes.
I understand, but lacquer, shop rags, and 150 grit dry didn't fare so well, either. I know, I was supposed to use wet sand paper and that's my bad....

Lack of patience is also my bad lol.
 

RichLo

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A garden hose and sand paper of your choice, preferably 3M Trizact sand paper.
 

Hipster

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I understand, but lacquer, shop rags, and 150 grit dry didn't fare so well, either. I know, I was supposed to use wet sand paper and that's my bad....

Lack of patience is also my bad lol.
re read my previous post, buzz it with a piece of 80 grit to get the gummy stuff gone.get down to what ever coat is not wrinkled up and switch up to 180g then go 220 if it suits you. Ideally you are going to need to re-prime it anyway. It all depends on what wrinkled on how far you have to go.

Rushing paint work usually doesn't work out. You have to pay attention to flash times , temps and do it accordingly. Piling paint on prevents the last coat from releasing solvents. You can create solvent pop, a gummy surface etc. Not hard to create the problems you're trying to avoid by being in a hurry.
 
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454cid

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Weird, I haven't had issues like that since I was a kid, trying to put lacquer over enamel. I mix brands all the time, especially if I'm doing something small, using left overs.

Any chance this is a base material issue, given that it's not metal?
 

letitsnow

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Weird, I haven't had issues like that since I was a kid, trying to put lacquer over enamel. I mix brands all the time, especially if I'm doing something small, using left overs.

Any chance this is a base material issue, given that it's not metal?

Funny - last weekend I sprayed lacquer clear over 1 week old oil based enamel, mostly because I grew up being told that you can't do that. It looks mint. A year from now? Who knows.
 

Hipster

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Funny - last weekend I sprayed lacquer clear over 1 week old oil based enamel, mostly because I grew up being told that you can't do that. It looks mint. A year from now? Who knows.
ugghhh! lol I know with some of the crap and industrial enamels I messed with there were re-coat windows. Ie: if you waited more than 4 hours after the last coat, you needed to wait 72 hours before recoating and it might call for a light scuff.

Sometimes you get lucky
 

DeCaff2007

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Omg... I'm about to just send the whole mess down to my FIL's place. I don't have the patience for this nonsense.
 

letitsnow

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A garden hose and sand paper of your choice, preferably 3M Trizact sand paper.


The set up that has wrecked many (potential) autobody tech careers before they ever really got started.


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