Thank you for your reply I'm not sure I understand all of it but thank you. On my truck it has 1 braid going from the firewall stud to the frame. The other braid goes from the back of the passengers side head to the firewall stud. I replaced the firewall to frame with pretty heavy 1 inch braid I already had laying around. I got some lighter but much heavier than the factory braid and connected it to the mechanical fuel pump cover back to the firewall stud. If that ground needs to be connected to the head and not the block could you explain why and I will try and find a spot on the head. I don't know why that would matter but there are a lot of things I don't know. I took it out this morning and ran the piss out of it and it ran better than it ever has since I've owned it. Again thank you for you comment.
Basically, grounds need to stay attached the the same "ground plane" as they were originally.
In other words, the same chunk of cast iron in your case.
If you move that ground off of the head to the block.
That ground now has to go through the head gasket.
It wont do that. It will ground to the shortest path.
The only way it can achieve that original grounding is through the head bolts.
It will ground to block instead.
The same thing happens if you move a ground from the intake to the block or the head.
The intake gasket is now in the way.
The problem people run into is that they do a continuaty test on the ground and get a tone out of the voltmeter and think its all good.
Each ground serves a specific set of paths.
When you move a ground to a different plane, you change that"path"
That path will be the shortest most direct.
And it will go through the easiest most conductive material.
Which can end up being the main bearings.
Bad or improper or missing grounds can also eat the bearings out of your transmission.
They are grounded in those planes for a reason.
We see this all the friggen time in the commercial boat world.
70 year old steel hull that is paper thin in 2 years because somebody moved a ground so it was easier to get at.
Knucleheads who paint over the hull zincs on wood boats and next year the bronze through hull valves turn to mush.
The best one was a "Engineer" who managed intermittant short a 480 volt gen pack to the prop shaft.
We just kept going slower and slower per rpm.
Then it shook like hell
Disimiliar metals and errant voltage ate the prop down a little three blade nub.
When that had nothing left to give the 6 inch diameter 22 foot long prop shaft turned into a noodle.
A warped noodle that ripped the cutlass bearing to shreds and broke the twin disk reduction gear and ripped it out of the bottom of the boat.
That problem, that electrolysis took a while to get that bad.
Probably a couple of years in the salt water.
But the all is well to the Mayday was about 45 minutes.
And dont try to chuck all of your coke and weed over the side while you are in a friggen gumby suit.
No thumbs. That **** will blow back on you and now you have to go for a swim before the coast guard shows up.
And fer ***** sake dont use a wood pipe no matter how cool it looks.
Wood floats, brass sinks.