95 K2500 454/NV4500 slow restoration

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CumminsBronco

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2blue...here are the 3 blend door motors.
Top photo is of the one to the left of glove box door. Remove glove box door to see and access that motor.
2nd pic is of the one that is behind blower motor, and just above where the wiring harness passes thru firewall at passenger foot area.
Bottom pic is of the one right by gas pedal.
 

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2blue4you

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Thanks for info guys, I will look for those actuator motors and check the tranny like you said. This week I had Les Schwab do the front end. Both upper control arms were replaced. $703.35 for that plus the alignment. I also ordered some transmission fluid GM #12346190 and a fluid transfer pump so I will check the fluid level this weekend. The abs light has come back on, looks like the wire to the LF hub was not routed correctly when it was replaced. Will have it warrantied on Monday.

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2blue4you

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I tested the tranny the way you described and it passed the test. I added some fluid, but I spilled most of it, so I have to order more. I added maybe half a quart and it's still low. I thought I had ordered the oem fluid but it was actually amsoil 75w-90 manual transmission fluid, which is an alternative specifically for the nv4500. Maybe I'll pay the $800 to fix it.
 

jaxcob

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I tested the tranny the way you described and it passed the test. I added some fluid, but I spilled most of it, so I have to order more. I added maybe half a quart and it's still low. I thought I had ordered the oem fluid but it was actually amsoil 75w-90 manual transmission fluid, which is an alternative specifically for the nv4500. Maybe I'll pay the $800 to fix it.
When i was changing the fluid on my nv4500 a year ago, it was pretty difficult to find the actual fluid. Both dodge and gm had their specific part numbers for the fluid. I ended up calling a couple of GM dealerships with the part number (GM Fluid (12346190) 75W-85 GL-4 Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid)
and asking the service manager if they had any in stock. One did and it was $32 a quart. I did end up ordering a couple extra quarts on amazon afterwards for about $30 a quart. When I drained the fluid it was a reddish hue instead of the clear color OEM fluid
Until you go to a bronze syncro retrofitted trans or something be very careful about the fluid that gets in the trans. The carbon-fiber syncros are picky. If you're leaking fluid I would definitely reseal the trans. Also be a good time to check the t-case output seal and make sure pump rub hasn't opened up a small hole on top of the t-case.
Best of luck! I've subbed and am following as I've got a 98 rclb 5.7 with the nv4500. You're in good hands here on the forum
 
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2blue4you

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When i was changing the fluid on my nv4500 a year ago, it was pretty difficult to find the actual fluid. Both dodge and gm had their specific part numbers for the fluid. I ended up calling a couple of GM dealerships with the part number (GM Fluid (12346190) 75W-85 GL-4 Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid)
and asking the service manager if they had any in stock. One did and it was $32 a quart. I did end up ordering a couple extra quarts on amazon afterwards for about $30 a quart. When I drained the fluid it was a reddish hue instead of the clear color OEM fluid
Until you go to a bronze syncro retrofitted trans or something be very careful about the fluid that gets in the trans. The carbon-fiber syncros are picky. If you're leaking fluid I would definitely reseal the trans. Also be a good time to check the t-case output seal and make sure pump rub hasn't opened up a small hole on top of the t-case.
Best of luck! I've subbed and am following as I've got a 98 rclb 5.7 with the nv4500. You're in good hands here on the forum
Yeah I ended up ordering the GM fluid. Added 2 quarts and it all leaked out within a couple days, so it's getting resealed next weekend. Thanks for info on t-case.
 

m1970

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Seems to leak less when truck is facing uphill.
Mine sometimes will leak from the top were the shifter bolts on. The bolts tend to back out sometimes with the aluminum case. You may be able to just resilicone and tighten it.
 

2blue4you

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I drove out to Denver a few months ago to pickup this trailer. Truck left me stranded after the new cat clogged up. $1000 tow later and I'm back on the road. Turns out the EGR valve was bad so I replaced that too. Recent work includes new starter, tail light circuit board, turn signal switch/flasher, back-up light switch, o2 sensor, stainless exhaust from the y-pipe back. I spent 2 months daily driving this thing. Jasper long block is up to 7 or 8k miles and has good oil pressure. Going into the shop next week for transmission work. We think something is damaged in the bellhousing, maybe a bent clutch fork or bad throw-out bearing. Recently had to replace 2 clutch master cylinders. Snapped the pushrod on one and 1000 miles later the seal on the new one failed. Clutch is way too stiff.

If you're interested in buying this truck, let me know. Thinking about listing it on BAT. It was my grandpas truck so I'm quite conflicted, but I don't like the idea of letting it sit for 5-10 years until I have my own place. It can barely tow my trailer, and being a 454/single cab it isn't a terribly practical daily driver for someone driving 20k+ miles a year.
 
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