Sanden 4440 install

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

KCusick81

Newbie
Joined
Mar 13, 2022
Messages
34
Reaction score
33
Location
Salisbury, MD, USA
Hello all,

New member and gmt400 owner here. I need a little help with the ac compressor install I did today. I'm not sure if this is the correct place to post this, so I apologize ahead of time if it's not. Getting to the issue at hand. I have a 1997 chevy k1500 5.7. I installed a new sanden 4440 ac compressor, new hose manifold, receiver and orifice tube today. Piece of cake. Everything went well with the installation, with the exception of the the electrical connections for the ac compressor. I hooked up the main connection, but there is nowhere to connect what I think is the clutch engagement sensor?? (The connection was in the back on the oe compressor. Firewall side) Does the sanden not need the switch attached? Is it controlled internally somehow? Or do I need some sort of adapter? According to the diagram I looked at, it appears there is a PRV where the connection was on the old compressor. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm planning on doing the vacuum down, test and recharge tomorrow.

Thank you,
Kyle
 

1998_K1500_Sub

Nitro Junkie
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2019
Messages
2,149
Reaction score
3,250
Location
Rural Illinois
I hooked up the main connection, but there is nowhere to connect what I think is the clutch engagement sensor?? (The connection was in the back on the oe compressor. Firewall side)

Did you (not?) swap the high-pressure switch from the back of the old compressor into the corresponding hole / boss on the Sanden?

See my notes in the attached.

When you vacuum it down, let it sit. Let it prove to you that it can hold vacuum for a day. If the gauges don't move in that time, you're golden. If they do, figure out why.
 

Attachments

  • 4440.pdf
    1.1 MB · Views: 67
Last edited:

Erik the Awful

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2019
Messages
7,611
Reaction score
15,527
Location
Choctaw, OK
When you vacuum it down, let it sit. Let it prove to you that it can hold vacuum for a day. If the gauges don't move in that time, you're golden. If they do, figure out why.
+1 Just adding that it should hold the same vacuum that whole time. If it drops from 29 inches of vacuum down to 20, you have a leak somewhere.
 

KCusick81

Newbie
Joined
Mar 13, 2022
Messages
34
Reaction score
33
Location
Salisbury, MD, USA
Thank you for the responses. I had assumed that I would need to swap in the connection from the old compressor. I went so far as to remove the snap ring and pull the connection, but didn't see where it would go on the sanden. I was running out of light and wanted to finish the install. Upon further inspection this morning I saw the blank dead center on the back held in with a snap ring. Frustration has a tendency to drop my IQ a few notches. Haha. Everything is hooked up now and will be doing the vacuum test momentarily. Thanks again to everyone for the responses and info. Greatly appreciated!
 

1998_K1500_Sub

Nitro Junkie
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2019
Messages
2,149
Reaction score
3,250
Location
Rural Illinois
I went so far as to remove the snap ring and pull the connection, but didn't see where it would go on the sanden. I was running out of light and wanted to finish the install. Upon further inspection this morning I saw the blank dead center on the back held in with a snap ring.

No harm. I had practically the same experience when I replaced mine!

Enjoy your cool AC.
 
Last edited:

KCusick81

Newbie
Joined
Mar 13, 2022
Messages
34
Reaction score
33
Location
Salisbury, MD, USA
I've got one more question folks. I didn't get a chance to do the vacuum down and recharge yet because the delivery of my vacuum pump kit was delayed.. I was thinking about it and now I'm wondering.. Is it necessary to flush the system before I proceed with the vacuum down and recharge? If so, I would assume that all I would need to flush would be the fluid lines and the condenser, since everything else is new?
 
Last edited:

1998_K1500_Sub

Nitro Junkie
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2019
Messages
2,149
Reaction score
3,250
Location
Rural Illinois
I've got one more question folks. I didn't get a chance to do the vacuum down and recharge yet because the delivery of my vacuum pump kit was delayed.. I was thinking about it and now I'm wondering.. Is it necessary to flush the system before I proceed with the vacuum down and recharge? If so, I would assume that all I would need to flush would be the fluid lines and the condenser, since everything else is new?

You're using the original condenser? Don't flush it, that's not a path to success.

How was the orifice tube when you removed it? Was there any debris on the screen? If much, then it's time to think about replacing the condenser. Report back.

I would have flushed the evaporator and lines to remove the old oil, using a highly-volatile flush (e.g., Four Seasons 69994). By so doing you flush any particulates that may have resided and, by removing any residual oil, you establish the proper oil type and volume in the system when you install the new oil.

You didn't say, but I trust (?) you added 1/2 of the new oil to the receiver/dryer and 1/2 to the new compressor. If you did something other, please explain.

FYI, it's easy peasy to simply rent the vacuum pump from the local O'Reilly's or AutoZone, if you have that option. They essentially let you use it for free.

Regardless, get plenty of vacuum pump oil because you'll probably need to change it at least once. Go into the project with at least a quart. Test the pump with your gauge set first, before trying to vacuum the system, to make sure the pump will draw ~30" of vacuum (or whatever "vacuum" is appropriate at your elevation) AND to verify you gauge set doesn’t have a leak if its own (which mine has had, over time, fixable though using replaceable o-rings).

There are the thoughts to come to mind this instant. I'm sure I've forgotten a few things.
 
Last edited:

KCusick81

Newbie
Joined
Mar 13, 2022
Messages
34
Reaction score
33
Location
Salisbury, MD, USA
You're using the original condenser? Don't flush it, that's not a path to success.

How was the orifice tube when you removed it? Was there any debris on the screen? If much, then it's time to think about replacing the condenser. Report back.

I would have flushed the evaporator and lines to remove the old oil, using a highly-volatile flush (e.g., Four Seasons 69994). By so doing you flush any particulates that may have resided and, by removing any residual oil, you establish the proper oil type and volume in the system when you install the new oil.

You didn't say, but I trust (?) you added 1/2 of the new oil to the receiver/dryer and 1/2 to the new compressor. If you did something other, please explain.

FYI, it's easy peasy to simply rent the vacuum pump from the local O'Reilly's or AutoZone, if you have that option.

Regardless, get plenty of vacuum pump oil because you'll probably need to change it at least once. Go into the project with at least a quart. Test the pump with your gauge set first, before trying to vacuum the system, to make sure the pump will draw ~30" of vacuum (or whatever "vacuum" is appropriate at your elevation).

There are the thoughts to come to mind this instant. I'm sure I've forgotten a few things.
I'm assuming that it is the original condenser. Though I can't be certain. I've only had the truck for about 2 1/2 months. After some research yesterday, I've decided to go ahead and replace the condenser and the refrigerant line as well ( figured why not? I've replaced everything else). While I have your attention, is there a specific brand I should use? I've heard mixed reviews on several of the aftermarket brands. From what I've seen OEM is no longer an option. I'm considering replacing the evaporator core as well. Do you think I should? Also, if I end up replacing everything, a flush would no longer be necessary, correct? The orifice tube did in fact have some sludge and debris when I pulled it. Since you brought up the issue of oiling the system. The sanden came prefilled with what it states should be the proper amount to oil a standard system for which it was designed. Do I still need to add some oil into certain components? (I got some extra sp-15). If so, how much?
 
Top