1997 GMC Savana 1500, intake gaskets, EGR plumbing etc

[Peavey]

Hi guys! New user and a lucky (?) owner of a Savana 1500 with a 350 Vortec. First of all, since English isn´t my mother tongue, I apologize for any misspellings and whatnot. Anyway, I´m currently working on the vehicle which my family and I are going to use as a "holiday-car" during this summer and, hopefully, many to come. As of now, I´m in the process of replacing the intake gaskets (got the Fel-Pro ones as a replacement) but I am struggeling somewhat with the EGR-tubing.

After a great deal of hassle, I realized that the fitting on the intake manifold wasn´t going to come off, even though I´d soaked it with rust-spray, heated it with a blowtorch several times etc, it was just stuck. I ended up cutting off the EGR-tube by the intake manifold as well as by the exhaust manifold and now it is finally removed (the fittings as well, even though it took me a great deal of effort to remove the nut from the intake...). So, I was just thinking...is it really necessary to order a new tube a re-fit it or could you just "plug" the holes in the intake as well as on the exhaust. I would obiously use some hardware with proper threads (emission control here isn´t that thorough, so they would probably not raise any voices), but would this sort of operation interfere with the PCM or other bits?

I would in that case still have a EGR valve fully connected, only without the actual tubing. Would it work? If so - better or worse than before? I am not searching for any sort of mpg or hp benefits, just want a solid trustworthy vehicle....what do you say? Is it worth shelling out a 100+ dollars for a new tube or should I try to just block it off...(without any PCM tuning or likewise)?

Again, sorry if I am not explaining things right or using an excessive amount of words to get to my point. Hopefully, you´ll understand anyway.

Thanks in advance and best regards from Sweden!

// Johan

 

[JeremyNH]

You can do it but you need to tune out the EGR advance or else it won't run very well (loss of power and mpg, or in Swedish km/L). Easiest just to buy a replacement tube. Getting the EGR tube out of the manifold is a known issue on intake gasket replacements. Many just suspend the manifold above the block without ever removing the tube. But that's in the past. So pay to tune for an EGR delete or pay for a replacement EGR tube. Tube is easier imho.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

You can do it but you need to tune out the EGR advance or else it won't run very well (loss of power and mpg, or in Swedish km/L). Easiest just to buy a replacement tube. Getting the EGR tube out of the manifold is a known issue on intake gasket replacements. Many just suspend the manifold above the block without ever removing the tube. But that's in the past. So pay to tune for an EGR delete or pay for a replacement EGR tube. Tube is easier imho.

EGR delete is better IMO. Intake stays almpst spotless. I am not a fan of either Felpro gaskets, OE or problem solver style as both end up failing in a few years. My go to is either Edelbrock or the Felpro 1255 equivalent.

 

[JeremyNH]

EGR delete is better IMO. Intake stays almpst spotless. I am not a fan of either Felpro gaskets, OE or problem solver style as both end up failing in a few years. My go to is either Edelbrock or the Felpro 1255 equivalent.

Finding a tuner for a 1997 in Sweden vs simply replacing the the EGR tube and continuing on? My votes for EGR tube given the scope of his query. But if he wants to go through the process it's his rig. But we can at least agree he can't simply plug it off and expect good things to happen, yes?

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Finding a tuner for a 1997 in Sweden vs simply replacing the the EGR tube and continuing on? My votes for EGR tube given the scope of his query. But if he wants to go through the process it's his rig. But we can at least agree he can't simply plug it off and expect good things to happen, yes?

Unplug the valve, SES will come one, but all the related stuff in the tune will react the same was as if the EGR was disabled in the tune. I ran mine that way for several years before disabling the EGR. Only plugged it in for a short period to get it "Ready" for smog. Mine ran terrible with the EGR enabled.

 

[Peavey]

Hi again! Thank you so much for all your swift replies, really appreciate it! I kind of suspected that you would need some sort of tune to "get rid" of the EGR. I suppose there are tuners in Sweden (somewhere...) who could tackle this operation but it seems, at least to me personally, like its really not worth the money/hassle. I will order a new tube and stay stock so to speak, the truck was running fine before, I´m doing the intake gaskets as a sort of combination of preventative maintainance and repair since there was/is a coolant leak from the hose connector on the front passanger side of the intake. It doesn´t seem to be a "quick-connect" fitting, just a normal hose with a clamp on so maybe someone has replaced in the past, who knows....the leak seems to be or has been there either way....

About the gaskets....I´m using the Fel Pro MS98000T...from what I´ve gathered and read so far, these seem to be one of the best ones to "permanently" fix the common issue with leaking gaskets...but I may be well of track?

Anyway, thanks again! Nice with a forum that is alive and kicking!

Best regards

//Johan

 

[JeremyNH]

Replacing the QD fitting for a hose barb has been fairly common but there is an issue with it. The QD fitting has a flow restrictor to keep coolant flow through the heater core low to prevent erosion and eventual leaks. GM has a hose barb with a restriction orifice made for this very purpose. I simply replaced the QD fitting with a Dorman QD when I swapped to a marine intake a few years ago and have had no leaks but if you already have a barb then the hose end has been cut off and you can't realistically go back. Just make sure you don't have an ordinary barb (which likely you do). Discussion on the GM barb is on the following thread. Read it to the end though because the OP provided some follow-up information after his initial post.

Restricted fitting to replace heater QD. Udated Delco fitting 15-33220

There are several threads with the pros and cons to using brass fittings to replace the problematic quick disconnect that tends to leak and break. I'm not going to beat that dead horse but share the restricted fitting i have found. Orginally I used a NAPA fitting but it was 5/8 so I'm going to...

www.gmt400.com

 

[Erik the Awful]

Many people here have replaced it with a standard hose barb with no ill effects. The Dorman replacement is cheap and effective enough that I'd use it, but if your hose is already chopped for a standard barb, you'll be fine.

 

[Peavey]

Hi again!

Allright, I´ll just have to see what awaits when I eventually pull the intake manifold off. I think I´m better of tackling the hose connector then. Thanks again for all the advice and information. Tried searching for the ACDelco hose barb (15-33220 as shown in the linked thread) but it doesn´t seem to be available from RockAuto or Summit...I do however have a local autoparts-store who specializes on US cars, they might be able to have something similar...we´ll see. I´ll keep you posted and, most likely, come back with more newbie-oriented questions.

Thank you!

//Johan

 

[L31MaxExpress]

The vans came with the GM barb fitting, not the quick connect.