Slade88
I'm Awesome
It has an OBD1 port, when I used a OBD2 scanner with a OBD1 attachment on it, it did not work. So I’m not sure what I should buy that would function properly
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There's dozens of scan tools that will work with OBD-1.
My choice were Snap-On products, bought used on eBay for a fraction of their original price. I used an MTG2500 (similar to an MT2500) for twenty years. When that died, I bought a Solus Pro, $350 delivered to my door.
My choice were Snap-On products, bought used on eBay for a fraction of their original price. I used an MTG2500 (similar to an MT2500) for twenty years. When that died, I bought a Solus Pro, $350 delivered to my door.
Have you tried advancing the timing even further? You advanced it a bit and got it to run. Maybe add just a bit more and see if it'll idle....? Best to find a timing light and get it spot on. That would help eliminate one variable anyways. You can get a cheap timing light on ebay motors for $25.
Slade88
I'm Awesome
Yep, set the timing every which way and it won’t idle. I have no vacuum leaks. Me and a friend set the timing to 0 degrees after the engine warmed up with the timing wire disconnected. The fuel injection connected clip snapped off and it’s leaking fuel into my throttle body, like a good amount of fuel is leaking, when we held down the clip which slowed the leaking it wanted to idle for a bit, so im thinking the reason it won’t idle is the fuel leak. Before I messed with the timing and snapped this connected it would idle for a couple seconds then go shutoff if you pressed on the gas, now it’s the opposite, it revs fine and sounds great then goes dead when you take you foot off the gas pedal
PHOTOS. In focus, nicely cropped, and resized so we can see detail without having to scroll all over.
Slade88
I'm Awesome
I bought a tbi rebuild kit, replaced all the gaskets inside the TBI, now there are no fuel leaks but it still won’t idle, I have timing set to 0 degrees advanced like how it’s supposed to be. I have no vacuum leaks. My injectors are spraying like they should. The truck runs like crap, very rough sounding engine, and as soon as it gets to around 750-650 it starts to sputter out and when I let my foot off the gas it sputters out completely and shuts off. WTF is going on? This is my daily driver so I’m losing money the longer this thing sits
Connect a scan tool, verify EVERY sensor and computer output.
Test coil output with spark tester calibrated for HEI.
How old are the plug wires, cap, rotor? Spark plugs fouled?
Test coil output with spark tester calibrated for HEI.
How old are the plug wires, cap, rotor? Spark plugs fouled?
^^^This. I read back through the thread and don't see anywhere you checked fuel pressure. Also, we don't know if the injectors themselves are blown out and flooding the engine. Pull the spark plugs again and look at them.
Slade88
I'm Awesome
Don’t have a scan tool, think I’m going to buy the bullet and get this piece of **** towed to somewhere that does, new plug wires, new spark plugs. Original rotor and cap. Have yet to check if the plugs are fouled
evilunclegrimace
Does not always play well with others
It is still possible that you have a vacuum leak. Just because you can get it to fire and run for a few seconds does not mean there is not a vacuum leak. The fact that you can not keep it running at idle but it will run for a short time above idle is a perfect example of a possible vacuum leak. If the engine will not start and idle you cannot say that there is not a vacuum leak.
