GM Crate Engine

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Rob7233

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If in your quest, you decide to go back to OEM, here is your EXACT replacement below. An all New, GM crate engine for your truck, that is better than your original (4 bolt mains etc.).

It might save you some headaches and grief in the end.


I bought the Non HD version # 12691673 from GANDRUD Performance Parts (they are real dealer and easily verifiable) and it was free ship, took like 3-4 days to get it. The install went smooth and easy without a single hiccup. Everything went together as it should and now I have about 5K on it with absolutely no issues.
 

Rob7233

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The HD version is said to be essentially the same except the valves have been hardened to allow higher Ethanol blends such as E85. Something to consider in having the 'Brandon administration' in charge of energy policy and the longevity of your truck.
 

Schurkey

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The HD version is said to be essentially the same except the valves have been hardened to allow higher Ethanol blends such as E85.
Also consider that stuffing a "HD" engine into a vehicle that it's not specified for, cuts the warranty to about 1/3 of what you'd get by buying the "correct" engine.
 

Erik the Awful

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consider that stuffing a "HD" engine into a vehicle that it's not specified for, cuts the warranty to about 1/3
According to the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act, if you use the HD engine for what it is intended, installing it in a non-HD truck should not void the warranty. Of course, everything is possible with an expensive enough application of lawyers.
 

Schurkey

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How can you use an engine intended for higher-GVWR vehicles in a low-GVWR truck? You'd be breaking the law because the low GVWR truck is overloaded.

All I'm saying is that GM's crate-engine warranty policy is that if an engine isn't installed in an "intended" application, the warranty is cut dramatically. It'd be up to the consumer to change GM's mind by applying those (expensive) lawyers.
 

DamHoodlum

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Does anybody have any experience with crate engines from these guys? Prices from this site seem hard to beat. Been looking all around and they have the lowest prices on anything I’ve seen. Currently looking at the HT383E drop in for a 98 gmc k1500. Just wanting to make sure it’s legit before pulling the trigger.

You can build a "better engine" than that for $4400

Depends on what you want to use it for
 

dyates99

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You can build a "better engine" than that for $4400

Depends on what you want to use it for
Not exactly trying to build a tow pig or a race truck. But something that sounds good and can break over the tires when a buddy wants to pull up next to me at a red light. Just something that will perform better than a stock 350 with loud exhaust. And can still drive normally around town or on the highway at higher speeds.

Also trying to keep it simple as I’d like to do the install myself. So I’m trying not to do any head work

Currently looking into a 383 from https://www.sandjengines.com/product/1998~GMC~Sierra_1500~1392
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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I wonder what it would cost to buy an L31 core from a yard, refurbish the block / heads and stuff the GM HT383e's cam and stroker crank (3.8" stroke, longer than the 400's 3.75") inside...

Sounds like a fun project.
 
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Schurkey

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I wonder what it would cost to buy an L31 core from a yard, refurbish the block / heads and stuff the HT383e cam and stroker crank (3.8" stroke, longer than the 400's 3.75") inside...

Sounds like fun project.
The aftermarket "383" had magazine publicity and hot-rod acceptance for decades. Folks were familiar with it even if they didn't own one.

They were based on cut-down 400 cranks, and a .030-over 350 block (4.030 bore size.) As the supply of 400 cranks dried-up, aftermarket cranks with 350-size mains and the 400 stroke got real popular.

So GM comes along with the idea of taking the displacement of the good ol' 5.7L out farther, digging into the aftermarket 383 market...but their production-line equipment isn't set up for 4.030 boring/honing. So getting an engine that can be marketed with the 383 recognition means using the standard 4" bore so the block can go down the normal machining line without tooling changes. Then they add a couple of cubes with a touch longer stroke. Given the GM buys heaps of them, it doesn't cost them any more to specify a 3.80 stroke instead of 3.75.

Price a GM 3.8" stroke crank. The aftermarket kills 'em with the more-common 3.75 stroke Chinese stuff.
 
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