97C1500TJ
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This was not the alignment from a week ago or so but all I did was set the toe. This is roughly where it’s at. I can get an up to date one soon.
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Interesting. I’ll look into it. I knew I could add one to the rear but would it really make that big of a difference with it being a solid rear axle?Could add a sway bar in the rear. They make a bolt up kit. And maybe get an upgraded stiffer sway bar upfront. I believe there is a manufacturer that calls them a muscle bar.
The majority of Suburbans, & Tahoe/Yukons had them factory. And every 400 SUV was solid rear axle.Interesting. I’ll look into it. I knew I could add one to the rear but would it really make that big of a difference with it being a solid rear axle?
This is definitely a bit different than our Hondas. I’m honestly not sure I know how to do this. Would you happen to have any photos that would further explain this?If that is your current alignment specs, your cross caster is where the problem is. 2.2° left, 0° right? That thing should be heading straight into the ditch everywhere you drive it!
That thing should be a mirror image, perhaps -0.3° cross...
Remove the pass side upper A-Arm, remove the knockouts and start adjusting properly.
Yes, off the truck completely, and on the driveway behind you.This is definitely a bit different than our Hondas. I’m honestly not sure I know how to do this. Would you happen to have any photos that would further explain this?
When you say remove the passenger side upper A Arm, you mean completely as in to fix something installed incorrectly?
So removing those perforations will allow for a caster adjustment?Yes, off the truck completely, and on the driveway behind you.
Then look at the frame pockets, where the upper A-Arm is bolted to. See the holes? One should be a slot, one should be a round hole.
There's an indented set of... let's call them "perforations"... that can be removed, making the circular holes into inch long oval slots. Then the cam bolts can be used to adjust the upper A-Arms individually in or out to adjust
Theres a specific tool to remove the 2 knockouts, and reassemble.
I found a YouTube video. Now this guy does it on a 4x4, but it's the same process on a 2wd. Just use the proper tool, not an air hammer like this goofball.
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Wait! RAG joint? I didn't know I had one!!!! Holy O Smokes! I think you just put me on track to correct the free play in the steering wheel for my 98 C1500. Sometimes insomnia is a good thing. And I was here looking for insights on front and rear shocks for a stock C1500. Thanks!Have you replaced the rag joint? This is a rubber coupling that attaches the steering column to the steering shaft. They ware in time, and this leads to steering slack.