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jbye93SCSB

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A lot of info on here about 4/6 drops, even some about 5/7. Only found one short thread about the Belltech 6/8 drop on here, and it was a couple pages with no real useful information. I’m looking to buy this Belltech 6/8 lowering kit from Summit (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bel-689nd). Want to place my order today, but wanted to get some words from those with experience. I’ve lifted a few trucks in my time. I had a 97 K1500 for years, and would like to think I know these trucks like the back of my hand. This will be the first project on my recent resto I picked up. I’ve never lowered a truck before. There’s gotta be reasons why the 4/6 is the most common kit. What are those reasons? Besides C-notch, is there anything else special I’ll have to do for the truck to be drive-able that’s not included in the kit? Specifically wondering about tire to wheel well clearance. Obviously I’ll have to take bumps real slow. Also seen some threads about raising the tank, but haven’t done any in depth reading on that topic. That’s no big deal, and I have to replace the fuel pump anyway. Any experienced advice is greatly appreciated and welcomed. What am I gonna have to do to make this work? Just love the look of the 6/8 over the 4/6, and can’t be higher than my Dad (see C10 attached). Picture of my other truck I just finished up is also attached. That one took way more from me than it’s worth, so what’s another few thousand on the C1500 gonna hurt so I can have the best of both worlds.

I’ll be keeping the factory 15s on for at least a little while because they’re in such good shape. I know wheel and tire size comes into the equation. Tires will be replaced and from the little bit of reading it appears F: 245/60r15 R: 295/50/r15 are the most common undersized tire combo on these trucks (according to Discount tire). I’ll have to do a little more reading on that, but I’ll make the wheels/tires work when the time comes.

As far as weight on front end goes, I’ll be swapping the 350 Vortec from my 97 into this 94 (has TBI 4.3 currently that I’ll be yanking soon)

Thanks ahead for any input/advice!
 

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Erik the Awful

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I haven't dropped one of these trucks yet, but I think that once you get past a 4/6 drop you start risking a notch not being enough.

 

618 Syndicate

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That's a 5/7 kit. 3" drop coil (with a spacer if you only want 2") and a 2" drop spindle. Shackles and flip out back.
If you want lower than your dad you'll have to modify it yourself (cutting the coils, fabbing shackles) body drop it, or bag it.
Also keep in mind that the 4.3 will not droop the springs as much as the 350 you're putting in.
 

someotherguy

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Great responses both and yes, the notch begins to be an issue even at 6" if you use the truck as a truck. Axle banging the included-shortened bump stops to the point of bending the notch a little bit, for one. Once you go past 6" you'll be modifying the notch or building your own, there's only a tiny little bit more room under the bed for more notch before you end up cutting the bed floor similar to a bagged truck. The differential will end up needing room too as the bed brace cut won't be enough (whether or not it was needed in the first place depends on wheelbase and bed length.)

Up front you need to raise the Y-pipe with the 4"/5" drop; at 6" I'd say you start needing to tend to other low points around the frame. RCSB has an advantage in length; longer trucks will do things like drag the gas tank straps (my '92 ECLB just about pulled one loose on a fairly mild driveway peak), any protruding bolt heads under the frame, etc. Bumper air dams will die early and your sway bar frame mount bushing brackets are in danger from curb stops and aggressive speed bumps.

Richard
 

gearheadE30

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I'll add to someotherguy's comments that the stock muffler will also drag pretty badly. The front edge of it is a square lip; it's very exciting (and destructive) when something snags it.

I'm somewhere between a 3/5 and a 4/6 drop based on the before and after measurements. You mention undersize tires - realize that takes away from your ground clearance as well. The tire sizes you quote are about 2.5" smaller diameter than mine, so the truck is 1.25 inches lower just from that. If it's a daily, you might not want to go quite that low. It is doable (and I've done it with lowered cars) but the utility aspect of a truck gets pretty limited and it's a different driving style. Just something to think about; nothing wrong with being that low but you need to know what you're in for lol.

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618 Syndicate

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If it's a daily, you might not want to go quite that low. It is doable (and I've done it with lowered cars) but the utility aspect of a truck gets pretty limited
I disagree with this completely. You can tow and haul exactly what you could at stock height if you set the truck up correctly.
and it's a different driving style.

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Definitely gotta drive different though, I agree with you there.
Good looking hoe.
 

gearheadE30

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I disagree with this completely. You can tow and haul exactly what you could at stock height if you set the truck up correctly.

Definitely gotta drive different though, I agree with you there.
Good looking hoe.

Thanks. It's possible I've just not been in one set up correctly then - I've only been in static low stuff. At least growing up in Indy, those of us static were always proud to be on springs like it was some kind of badge of honor that we weren't just low at the show or pulling in, we were always low. Looking back I'm not sure why I cared, since it is all cool to me now, but I still have no experience with air aside from OEM stuff. Most of the low vehicles I've been around were not done right and had basically no suspension travel left. It's hard to do it right, but so much more rewarding to drive and live with.
 
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I am lowered about 5/8 on my truck. I needed the C notch and I sectioned the bed support that goes over the rear end. I have shorter shocks in the rear and shock extenders to make it work. The front tires will hit the inner wheel wells on big dips (28" tall tires). You may have to roll your front fender lip as well depending on your wheels and tires. I have the stock Y pipe but a different cat back exhaust. No real changes beyond that, I haven't had any ground clearance issues, it still has about the same ground clearance as a sports sedan so just take it easy on speed bumps. Also, after cracking 4 lower front air dams I have given up on them, I might try again and spring mount it or something.
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drewcrew

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I am lowered about 5/8 on my truck. I needed the C notch and I sectioned the bed support that goes over the rear end. I have shorter shocks in the rear and shock extenders to make it work. The front tires will hit the inner wheel wells on big dips (28" tall tires). You may have to roll your front fender lip as well depending on your wheels and tires. I have the stock Y pipe but a different cat back exhaust. No real changes beyond that, I haven't had any ground clearance issues, it still has about the same ground clearance as a sports sedan so just take it easy on speed bumps. Also, after cracking 4 lower front air dams I have given up on them, I might try again and spring mount it or something.
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I've been thru a ton of "air dams" too. I should start installing them with wing-nuts
 
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