Post your lifted 2wd's!

[Calikov]

1997 C1500 RC 4" Spindle lift, 285/75/16 on 16x8 4.0" backspace. Minor trimming to front bumper and front fender was needed. Also, I do NOT recommend this lift... It will transform into KaCHOW MOD with new tires and a load in the bed trying to stop...

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[mauichevyracer]

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Here's my 97 Suburban 2wd
I've been gathering the parts to lift it, and read through this entire post. Lots of great info and inspiration.

I haven't installed anything yet, and my Suburban currently sits on 265/75/16.
I bought 4" Rough Country spindles, 3" coil spacers, and I have both 4 and 5" blocks for the rear, depending on what looks right. I bought a new set of Rough Country N3 shocks front and rear, and ProComp extended stainless brake lines too.

After reading some posts, I'm thinking I'll do a 4" rear shackle flip, and hopefully avoid using blocks (or at least minimize block size). My end goal is to get about 6" lift and fit 315/75/16 tires underneath.

All the boxes of parts are eagerly waiting in my garage, but I want to be certain I have everything I'll need beforehand. I still need spacers, and I'm curious if I'll need extended rear sway bar end links?

How bad will the alignment be after installation? I'll get it aligned, but closest shop is 20 miles away.

 

[dcp1992]

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Here's my 97 Suburban 2wd
I've been gathering the parts to lift it, and read through this entire post. Lots of great info and inspiration.

I haven't installed anything yet, and my Suburban currently sits on 265/75/16.
I bought 4" Rough Country spindles, 3" coil spacers, and I have both 4 and 5" blocks for the rear, depending on what looks right. I bought a new set of Rough Country N3 shocks front and rear, and ProComp extended stainless brake lines too.

After reading some posts, I'm thinking I'll do a 4" rear shackle flip, and hopefully avoid using blocks (or at least minimize block size). My end goal is to get about 6" lift and fit 315/75/16 tires underneath.

All the boxes of parts are eagerly waiting in my garage, but I want to be certain I have everything I'll need beforehand. I still need spacers, and I'm curious if I'll need extended rear sway bar end links?

How bad will the alignment be after installation? I'll get it aligned, but closest shop is 20 miles away.

The only thing I see missing that I don't see is extended upper control arms or ball joint spacers. If you are doing a 3" coil spacer, especially with spindles, you are going to need either extended upper arms or ball joint spacers or good luck getting the alignment right. I'd recommend the upper arms over the ball joint spacers but they aren't cheap.

Another thing I'd think about, though my not be required, is extended brake lines. I had about 6" on my Yukon (then went down to 5") and got away with just taking the hard lines out of the brackets and moving them. But I'd 100% get extended lines if I did it again.

 

[mauichevyracer]

The only thing I see missing that I don't see is extended upper control arms or ball joint spacers. If you are doing a 3" coil spacer, especially with spindles, you are going to need either extended upper arms or ball joint spacers or good luck getting the alignment right. I'd recommend the upper arms over the ball joint spacers but they aren't cheap.

Another thing I'd think about, though my not be required, is extended brake lines. I had about 6" on my Yukon (then went down to 5") and got away with just taking the hard lines out of the brackets and moving them. But I'd 100% get extended lines if I did it again.

I did buy extended brake lines, because I saw something about that. I'm unsure about the ball joint spacer - I'm seeing 1", 1 1/2", and 2" heights. Which one would be appropriate for a 3" coil spring spacer?

I agree the new control arm would be best option, however it's $550 plus $230 shipping to Hawaii, and that's not in the budget right now. So I'll try the ball joint spacers

 

[95C1500]

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Here's my 97 Suburban 2wd
I've been gathering the parts to lift it, and read through this entire post. Lots of great info and inspiration.

I haven't installed anything yet, and my Suburban currently sits on 265/75/16.
I bought 4" Rough Country spindles, 3" coil spacers, and I have both 4 and 5" blocks for the rear, depending on what looks right. I bought a new set of Rough Country N3 shocks front and rear, and ProComp extended stainless brake lines too.

After reading some posts, I'm thinking I'll do a 4" rear shackle flip, and hopefully avoid using blocks (or at least minimize block size). My end goal is to get about 6" lift and fit 315/75/16 tires underneath.

All the boxes of parts are eagerly waiting in my garage, but I want to be certain I have everything I'll need beforehand. I still need spacers, and I'm curious if I'll need extended rear sway bar end links?

How bad will the alignment be after installation? I'll get it aligned, but closest shop is 20 miles away.

Uhm... what's under the hood?

 

[mauichevyracer]

Uhm... what's under the hood?

Big block 454 with 671 blower

 

[RollinTurd]

Running 285/75r16s with 4" lift spindles. I think is almost the same tire diameter of an 33x10.5r15

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1. This is the exact look I'm going for out of my 88 c1500 silverado reg cab long bed. Always wanted a 2 door tahoe/yukon.
2. What backspacing are those wheels?
3. I see 2500 on the body side molding, but 5 lug wheels... Is this really a 2500, and how much different would the front end be from mine?

Just trying to get mine right the first time. Its my DD and I need to do the spindle lift, a 6 lug swap rotor, 9.5 14 bolt, and wheels and tires over a long weekend. New ball joints, poly control arm bushings, and sway bar bushings/end links were done several weeks back.

Anyone have any experience in returning/exchanging wheels and tires if they dont fit?

 

[Justin2500]

96 C2500 ext cab 5.7

I'd like to level the truck. I'm okay with the rear height, I just want to level the front and get my wheels out further flush with the bed/body.
I bought the Daystar KG09100BK but haven't put them on yet. Are they worth it?
Recommendations on wheel spacers? 1.5", 2"?

I still want to be able to load the bed down if I need to haul dirt and be safe.

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[SUBURBAN5]

Heres a quick tip for anybody with a rc 4" lift with a rear sway bar. If you want to stay as close to factory angle in the rear I recommend getting a 97 dodge dakota sway bar end link. There longer then our link and bolt right up. All you have to do is install our bushings and sleeve.

 

[RollinTurd]

88 C1500 5.7

4 in Rough Country Spindle kit
9.5 SF 14 bolt swap
Lugnut 4x4 rear disk brake conversion
265/75-16 Hercules Terra Trac T/G Max

Overall I'm happy except for the 1-2 in of Cali lean... The 9.5 SF spring perches must be shorter than the factory axle. Blocks, springs, or both are next. Would a 4 in block be a bad idea?

Hindsight...wish I would have sourced a better rear end. Didn't plan on the disk brake conversion. I could not locate all parts to rebuild the drums. Parking brake lever is non-existent on the 11.25 in drums... Lug Nut kit is great though. Terrible time bleeding everything though. Should have capped all my lines off so it didn't drain them dry...

Also want to call out that 4.5 in backspacing is not enough on a 16 in M/T Classic III. They were rubbing on the RC knuckle... Pacers with 4.25 clear fine. Rear calipers don't have enough room for sticky weights. Not a big deal I guess.

Tires are great. First set was their A/T II. They did great and from all indications the T/G Max are gonna be just as great.

All in all I learned a ton through this project and am mostly happy. Will do a build thread one of these days with part numbers and everything if time permits. Thanks to everyone on here for the inspiration! Couldn't have done it without you!