What is that part called?

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mistercrowley

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Hey, I'm Chris. I have a 92 Scottsdale K1500 263 V6 4.3l 4wd. Does anyone know where I can find very user friendly schematics? I have a Chilton manual, but, as you know they are for those that have a bit more than rudimentary knowledge of a combustion engine.

Something that shows where all the sensors are located would be a good thing.

I am a take it off the vehicle, take it to the store, tell them 'I need one of these', then go home and put the new one on guy.

I don't know where things are and what they do... Sorry.

So, my ride does not like to keep consistent RPMs. I will stop at a light/sign and they dip down to almost zero then come back up...

What have I done?
-Replaced the alternator, starter, and battery - all were junkyard specials... oh and added about 3 new grounding wires for the battery since the previous location was less than ideal. On a bracket and not the frame.
-Swapped out the TBI for something in better condition
-Replaced the Idle Air Control and Throttle Position Sensor.

I'm thinking the MAP Sensor and possibly the fuel pump...

I'd like to have those RPMs not dip when I stop. Yes it hesitates at times when accelerating... no backfires.

Could it really just be the fact that God forgot to turn off the oven when He left?

Thanks - I am woefully unprepared when it comes to auto mechanics. Thank you.
 

df2x4

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Cheyenne95

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I haven't cracked open a Chilton manual in years, but IIRC they had a section on general maintenance and basic troubleshooting. If you haven't already, give those a look. Ensuring the basics are in good working order will mean you are not chasing multiple problems that are stacking up and working against you.

At the risk of being helpful, if it was me, I'd check the following.

Check for codes. Is the check engine light on?
Basic ignition components such as plugs and wires. Ensuring these are good will aid in troubleshooting.
Vacuum leaks and PCV.
Clean the TBI.
MAP sensor.
Crank position sensor.
Take a look in the intake, check for fuel residue. The 4.3L were known for leaking poppet valves/injectors.
Verify timing.
Verify fuel pressure.

Plenty of articles on the interwebs that cover the 4.3L and poppet valves/injectors and fuel pressure. They are sensitive to fuel pressure.

Lastly, avoid the house name brand replacement sensors at the local parts house. Personally I've witnessed nothing but trouble from them; some will argue differently.
 

RichLo

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He has a TBI, not the infamous spider injection

You did the right first steps with the 'better' TBI and a new IAC and TPS. But even if the TBI looked better, it wouldn't hurt to still rebuild it or rebuild the other one. Also check fuel pressure, the FPR spring could be weak, you can Band-Aid this by adding a quarter (yes the US currency) under the spring to increase fuel pressure. And check injector spray pattern when the almost stalling condition happens.
 

mistercrowley

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He has a TBI, not the infamous spider injection

You did the right first steps with the 'better' TBI and a new IAC and TPS. But even if the TBI looked better, it wouldn't hurt to still rebuild it or rebuild the other one. Also check fuel pressure, the FPR spring could be weak, you can Band-Aid this by adding a quarter (yes the US currency) under the spring to increase fuel pressure. And check injector spray pattern when the almost stalling condition happens.
FPR?
 

Frank Enstein

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Fuel Pressure Regulator
It's the thimble looking thing at the back of the TBI unit held on with 4 screws near the fuel lines. It basically clogs up the return line to build pressure. Not enough pressure equals less fuel sprayed out causing hesitation and stalling.
 

mistercrowley

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Oh, that thing... It was all clear... Damn strong spring too... No... it didn't go flying anywhere. I figured there was a spring in it so I slowly loosened all four... a little bit for you and a little bit for you... and for you and for you....
 
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