Shackle flip with body lift

[Keeslinger31]

Yes SAS. Stupid smart phone changes it to what it thinks it should be. It flexed great, even after I added a **** ton of leaves lol.

Yes I hate autocorrect as well
I ordered the shackles we shall see what the result is

 

[boy&hisdogs]

Yes I hate autocorrect as well
I ordered the shackles we shall see what the result is

Which one did you get? I just put a ORD shackle flip in my truck yesterday.

Something that really put a stick in our spokes was when it came time to cut and punch the rivets of the old shackle hanger out. We cut the heads off the rivets, then tried to knock them out with an air hammer. Well... the air hammer was somehow making them mushroom out between the hanger and frame and get stuck. They would go like 1/8" and then get stuck again.

But when one of the hangers fell off we saw what was happening. So we just knocked the hanger off, cut the rivets flush again and they popped right out. Not all of them did this, but even the ones that didn't get stuck were still harder to get out than the ones we cut twice.

I think it will look cool, and the body lift will also make it easier since some of the bolts line up weird with the stock height body and make it so you can't get an impact gun in there.

 

[Aparke4]

Check out my thread in the RC lift thread. I have the WFO shackle flip kit and a 3 inch body lift on the rear of my k2500. RC front lift kit and for the rear I used a 2 degree shim and it drives fine/ no vibes. Let me know if you want any more pics.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/rough-country-4-6-kit-install-tips.14374/page-18

 

[Keeslinger31]

Which one did you get? I just put a ORD shackle flip in my truck yesterday.

Something that really put a stick in our spokes was when it came time to cut and punch the rivets of the old shackle hanger out. We cut the heads off the rivets, then tried to knock them out with an air hammer. Well... the air hammer was somehow making them mushroom out between the hanger and frame and get stuck. They would go like 1/8" and then get stuck again.

But when one of the hangers fell off we saw what was happening. So we just knocked the hanger off, cut the rivets flush again and they popped right out. Not all of them did this, but even the ones that didn't get stuck were still harder to get out than the ones we cut twice.

I think it will look cool, and the body lift will also make it easier since some of the bolts line up weird with the stock height body and make it so you can't get an impact gun in there.

I got the wfo brackets mostly because they come with the shackles.

Yes you have to knock the bracket off first then cut again. The rivets are surprisingly soft, regardless very good info thank you

 

[Keeslinger31]

Check out my thread in the RC lift thread. I have the WFO shackle flip kit and a 3 inch body lift on the rear of my k2500. RC front lift kit and for the rear I used a 2 degree shim and it drives fine/ no vibes. Let me know if you want any more pics.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/rough-country-4-6-kit-install-tips.14374/page-18

Perfect! Exactly what I was looking for

That does look really good!
I haven’t finished installing mine yet I decided to clearcoat them because the welds looked so good

About to order the u bolt flip the shims and axle relocation plates as soon as I figure out what degree shim I need.

Did you like the way the relocation plates worked? It’s a toss up between the wfo and the ord ones ideally I’d like some angled plates but it looks like nobody makes them

it seems the wfo ones are more like a small block while the ord bolt through the spring pack although they just thread into them which doesn’t sit right with me for whatever reason.

I put in a 4 degree shim I had laying around just to mock it up and so far it looks like that will give me 11 degrees which seems like it will work but we will see what the angle is with it all together first.

 

[Keeslinger31]

Got them in

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swapped the pinion to a 1350 u joint one and with 4 degree shims I have 9 degrees on the pinion
Might have to go with 3 degree shims I haven’t quite decided yet

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[boy&hisdogs]

Got them in

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swapped the pinion to a 1350 u joint one and with 4 degree shims I have 9 degrees on the pinion
Might have to go with 3 degree shims I haven’t quite decided yet

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I thought that the pinion and Tcase had to be parallel, which would mean that the pinion should point slightly down

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[Keeslinger31]

I thought that the pinion and Tcase had to be parallel, which would mean that the pinion should point slightly down

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It’s a two piece shaft

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[Keeslinger31]

I’ve got
4 degrees on the case yoke
8 degrees on the first shaft
11 on the second shaft
9 on the diff yoke

I think I’ll raise the csb to get the first shaft at 7 then a 3 degree shim to get the diff at 10 that should get me less angle on the u joints

I could be wrong on the relation of the t case and differential with the two piece but I’m just trying to get the u joints operating angle less than 3 degrees on each u joint

I think with a two piece your supposed to match the first driveshaft angle with the rear diff angle but I’m not sure

 

[Keeslinger31]

Just reading this is confusing not sure what is the best way I guess I’ll figure it out eventually
https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml#2-Piece