Here’s what I got, here’s what I want to do.

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Txlock

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Sorry I didn’t mean for this to come in upside down but this is the card out of the glove box with all the options this Truck came with. I’m in the process of looking it up
 

Erik the Awful

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Are you selling a motor?
Sorry, no. If I were in your shoes, I'd stick with the low-power motor until he has a year driving under his belt. My oldest got a P71 Crown Vic for his first car, and the rule after that was "No V8s for first cars". Build the second motor with him and let him know he has to keep his grades up and not get tickets if he wants the motor.

Rebuild the '95 TBI motor on your stand:
Machine shop:
Have the stock block vatted, magnafluxed, and inspected, no overbore unless it's needed, no decking unless it's needed.
Have the stock crank vatted, magnafluxed, and inspected, no cutting unless needed. Minor blemishes you can fix with a cargo strap and emery cloth.
Have the stock heads vatted, magnafluxed, and inspected, no milling unless it's needed. If you're worried, have the rocker studs replaced with screw-ins.
Have the rods and pistons reconditioned.

After it all comes back clean, port the heads yourself, using the video above for reference. Don't reshape the combustion chambers.
Follow this article for installing your block plugs: http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/83818-block-plug-basics/
Summit has a cheap block plug kit with brass freeze plugs that I used. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1581/make/chevrolet
I used Enginetech's $40 gasket set on my motor, but the kit RockAuto shows right now doesn't have the rear main seal. Hmm...?
Take the rod and piston assemblies and use a homebuilt fixture and a cheap scale to balance each end. You'd be surprised how smooth a 350 will run when you balance the rod and piston assemblies. https://www.harborfreight.com/digital-scale-95364.html?_br_psugg_q=scale
Put the bottom end back together with Mahle tri-metal bearings, or if you're feeling froggy, use Enginetech King XP bearings. Plastigage the main and rod caps. The main bolts can be reused.
For piston rings, I like Mahle or Sealed Power. Absolutely measure your end gap, but don't worry if they're a little too open, only if they're too closed.
I recommend new rod bolts, even though I opted to reuse the stockers in my vintage motor. Kids are more likely to wind the motor out. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-6003/make/chevrolet
Assemble the heads with new valvesprings, retainers, and keepers. I don't reuse valvesprings because they're dirt cheap, and if a spring or retainer breaks your engine is trashed. It's worth the money to step up to LS2 valvesprings https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8317592&cc=1423921&jsn=3833&jsn=3833 and Comp Cams 787-16 retainers https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-787-16. Don't forget the keepers https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sme-143009.
Use new stock-style valve seals - they should come in your rebuild kit.
Reuse the stock valves.
Reuse the stock rocker arms.
Put on a standard volume Melling oil pump.
Put on a standard link-style Melling timing chain and not a roller.
Reuse the stock valve covers, timing chain cover, and oil pan.

Camshafts:
If you have roller provisions, install the factory roller lifters, dogbones, and spider assembly and call your favorite cam company. You won't be disappointed.
If you don't have roller provisions, the GM Hot Cam is a preferred cam, but I don't know if that will fit under TBI heads, even with the LS2 valvesprings. It's also $500 now. I haven't had a chance to fire up the L79 copy in my vintage-style engine, but it's about as big a cam as the TBI heads will tolerate with stock springs, and it's at the limit of what they'll flow. It's also under $50. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5575839&cc=1051063&jsn=529

If you go larger with the cam you will need to retune the engine. I just plopped a Holley Sniper on mine. Budget $1200 for a Sniper swap if you go that route.

Machine work - under $300
Parts - under $500, including the Harbor Freight scale for balancing pistons.

If he's still keeping his grades up and behaving, put a Summit carbureted intake manifold on it - they're rebadged Weiand manifolds - and a TBI adapter. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-226012/make/chevrolet https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-2210
Note that the TBI doesn't fit the manifold real well, but you can upgrade to a better injection system later.
 
Last edited:

Txlock

OBS Enthusiast
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Dec 12, 2019
Messages
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Location
Houston,Tx
Sorry, no. If I were in your shoes, I'd stick with the low-power motor until he has a year driving under his belt. My oldest got a P71 Crown Vic for his first car, and the rule after that was "No V8s for first cars". Build the second motor with him and let him know he has to keep his grades up and not get tickets if he wants the motor.

Rebuild the '95 TBI motor on your stand:
Machine shop:
Have the stock block vatted, magnafluxed, and inspected, no overbore unless it's needed, no decking unless it's needed.
Have the stock crank vatted, magnafluxed, and inspected, no cutting unless needed. Minor blemishes you can fix with a cargo strap and emery cloth.
Have the stock heads vatted, magnafluxed, and inspected, no milling unless it's needed. If you're worried, have the rocker studs replaced with screw-ins.
Have the rods and pistons reconditioned.

After it all comes back clean, port the heads yourself, using the video above for reference. Don't reshape the combustion chambers.
Follow this article for installing your block plugs: http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/83818-block-plug-basics/
Summit has a cheap block plug kit with brass freeze plugs that I used. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1581/make/chevrolet
I used Enginetech's $40 gasket set on my motor, but the kit RockAuto shows right now doesn't have the rear main seal. Hmm...?
Take the rod and piston assemblies and use a homebuilt fixture and a cheap scale to balance each end. You'd be surprised how smooth a 350 will run when you balance the rod and piston assemblies. https://www.harborfreight.com/digital-scale-95364.html?_br_psugg_q=scale
Put the bottom end back together with Mahle tri-metal bearings, or if you're feeling froggy, use Enginetech King XP bearings. Plastigage the main and rod caps. The main bolts can be reused.
For piston rings, I like Mahle or Sealed Power. Absolutely measure your end gap, but don't worry if they're a little too open, only if they're too closed.
I recommend new rod bolts, even though I opted to reuse the stockers in my vintage motor. Kids are more likely to wind the motor out. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-6003/make/chevrolet
Assemble the heads with new valvesprings, retainers, and keepers. I don't reuse valvesprings because they're dirt cheap, and if a spring or retainer breaks your engine is trashed. It's worth the money to step up to LS2 valvesprings https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8317592&cc=1423921&jsn=3833&jsn=3833 and Comp Cams 787-16 retainers https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-787-16. Don't forget the keepers https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sme-143009.
Use new stock-style valve seals - they should come in your rebuild kit.
Reuse the stock valves.
Reuse the stock rocker arms.
Put on a standard volume Melling oil pump.
Put on a standard link-style Melling timing chain and not a roller.
Reuse the stock valve covers, timing chain cover, and oil pan.

Camshafts:
If you have roller provisions, install the factory roller lifters, dogbones, and spider assembly and call your favorite cam company. You won't be disappointed.
If you don't have roller provisions, the GM Hot Cam is a preferred cam, but I don't know if that will fit under TBI heads, even with the LS2 valvesprings. It's also $500 now. I haven't had a chance to fire up the L79 copy in my vintage-style engine, but it's about as big a cam as the TBI heads will tolerate with stock springs, and it's at the limit of what they'll flow. It's also under $50. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5575839&cc=1051063&jsn=529

If you go larger with the cam you will need to retune the engine. I just plopped a Holley Sniper on mine. Budget $1200 for a Sniper swap if you go that route.

Machine work - under $300
Parts - under $500, including the Harbor Freight scale for balancing pistons.

If he's still keeping his grades up and behaving, put a Summit carbureted intake manifold on it - they're rebadged Weiand manifolds - and a TBI adapter. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-226012/make/chevrolet https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-2210
Note that the TBI doesn't fit the manifold real well, but you can upgrade to a better injection system later.
I love the information sincerely thank you that’s actually a great help. As far as The Boy is concerned there is a second option for a vehicle. I do need the power to pull the trailer. Although I would like him to have this truck but I am torn because I love this truck so much I’m afraid he might kill it being his first vehicle. I would be pretty upset when he wrecks it. Of course the other vehicle is a little four-cylinder four-door mom car. Let’s just say mom is definitely pulling for that one.
 

badco

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If you want easy hp get away from stock tbi. Swap to port injection or something similar. Stay away from any flat tappit cam and use hyd roller, MOST 88up blocks can use factory hyd roller with no modifications. The ones that do need modified are just a few holes drilled and tapped.
 

L31MaxExpress

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If you want easy hp get away from stock tbi. Swap to port injection or something similar. Stay away from any flat tappit cam and use hyd roller, MOST 88up blocks can use factory hyd roller with no modifications. The ones that do need modified are just a few holes drilled and tapped.
Factory TBI based stuff can support 450 hp and beyond with a single TBI.
 

badco

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Even the big block tbi only 500cfm. I have seen a 500cfm carb make over 500 on a dirt car with alot of work and alot of cam duration and lobe timing work
 

Ronnie Neal

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I have a 454 which has the factory tbi it's 680 cfm makes 525 hp on motor and another 100 with wet kit nitrous
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