How do I know which U-Joint I have?

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boy&hisdogs

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From what I've read, there are two possible options for my truck (98 K1500 w/ 4l60e + 10 bolt).

I'm trying to swap in a 14b SF but I need to know which conversion joint to buy. Again, from what I've read, its either a S44 or a 1330.

What's the best way to tell? I do have calipers and can measure but I don't know exactly what to measure or what it should be.
 

stutaeng

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It's probably a S44/3R. Craw under there and see if you have the little plastic "nibs." There's 2 of them per side at 180 degrees from each other.

You'll need a torch to heat the thing until the molded injection nylon oozes out, then remove them with a press or ball joint removal tool. I did a S44 recently and only had a heat gun. Took a long time, but was able to heat enough to nylon stuff out.

If you don't those little nibs you probably have something else. Then look for some internal or external clips on the joint.

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TechNova

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those plastic nibs won't slow a U joint press down. I just press the joint out and use internal clips on the new one.
If you feel the need to remove them, an 1/8" drill bit also works for
those without a torch.
 

454cid

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those plastic nibs won't slow a U joint press down. I just press the joint out and use internal clips on the new one.
If you feel the need to remove them, an 1/8" drill bit also works for
those without a torch.

Uh....1/8" is going to be cutting iron. The holes aren't that big, and it's a waste of time any way. The plastic runs around the entire circumference of the bearing cup. The holes are where the plastic was injected, and the opposite side is to verify that it went all the way around.

What are you using for a u-joint press? You've got to have a setup that won't bend the yoke ears. Breaking that plastic takes a lot more force than just popping out bearing cups that are holding on due to habit, after the clips have been removed.
 

454cid

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I have no plastic nibs. It uses clips on the driveshaft end. Now what? Just measure?

"on the driveshaft end".... I don't know what you mean. The whole thing is the driveshaft.

I'd mark the orientation of the slip yoke relative to the tube, so you get it back together the same way. Then start pulling the bearings out. You can use a press as long as the yoke ears are supported. You don't want to bend them. I'd pound them out, personally. You can use something like a socket that's smaller than the bearing and try to push both bearings at the same time, or you can use a drift and pound on one at a time from the inside. You'll need to make sure you don't smash the groove where the snap rings fits (the socket greatly reduces the chances of that) and again not to hit so hard that you bend a yoke ear.

Once you get everything apart, clean up and rust or whatever, and measure....... if you narrowed it down to two it shouldn't be too hard. You could always take the old parts into the store.

You may be able to get the new bearing cups in by hand or with a few light taps of a ballpeen hammer. Just make sure you don't knock a needle over. If you get it all assembled and bending it feels really notchy, or you can't get it squeezed together far enough to get a clip in, you knocked a needle bearing over.
 

boy&hisdogs

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"on the driveshaft end".... I don't know what you mean. The whole thing is the driveshaft.

I'd mark the orientation of the slip yoke relative to the tube, so you get it back together the same way. Then start pulling the bearings out. You can use a press as long as the yoke ears are supported. You don't want to bend them. I'd pound them out, personally. You can use something like a socket that's smaller than the bearing and try to push both bearings at the same time, or you can use a drift and pound on one at a time from the inside. You'll need to make sure you don't smash the groove where the snap rings fits (the socket greatly reduces the chances of that) and again not to hit so hard that you bend a yoke ear.

Once you get everything apart, clean up and rust or whatever, and measure....... if you narrowed it down to two it shouldn't be too hard. You could always take the old parts into the store.

You may be able to get the new bearing cups in by hand or with a few light taps of a ballpeen hammer. Just make sure you don't knock a needle over. If you get it all assembled and bending it feels really notchy, or you can't get it squeezed together far enough to get a clip in, you knocked a needle bearing over.

Sorry, axle end, it was late and I had been under the truck all day.

After some careful measuring and looking I'm 99% sure it's a 1330 "big cap". But the driveline gets the regular 1330 side and the axle that I'm getting rid of is the one with the big cap.

So I would need a 1330 big cap if I was doing a direct replacement but since I'm doing a 14b swap, it's a 1330 to 1350, aka Precision 448, which is surprisingly common.
 
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