My 454 SS build

[fastfreddys454ss]

Now I have to cut out my rear roll pan diffuser to fit my flowmaster exhaust tips. Bad drawing but you get the idea.

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[fastfreddys454ss]

Got the diffuser done today

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[SUBURBAN5]

That's a badass looking truck. Very nice touches

 

[drewcrew]

Got the diffuser done today

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VERY interesting build. Please keep posting future mods. One question, how many times did you win the lotto ?

 

[JBenn]

Hydroboost

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You have an awesome build and lot of really great information on your thread, thank you for taking the time to post everything.

I'm converting to hydro boost and was curious which part number you went with? Did you have to modify anything?

I've been looking at this unit on Summit wondering if it was plug and play. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-52-7250

I have a 90' SS I've owned for over 20 years that I'm restoring. My SS has been heavily modified since it was driven off the show room floor. I may start a build thread on this site as well.

 

[skylark]

I did order the forever sharp A01-65B. The (5/6 Bolt pattern) 1/2 spacer serves several purposes. I used the 5 bolt part of the 1/2 spacer to bolt to the forever sharp A01 adapters. Then used the 6 bolt part of the 1/2 spacer to bolt the ngr quick release. I bought the SRK-400CF NGR quick release because its the thinnest but its only available is a 6 bolt pattern.There also wasn’t enough room between the forever sharp A01 adapter and the NGR quick release because of the spline sticking out to much and hitting the horn contact.The only thing I have to take care of is the clocking issue of the steering wheel. Not sure what direction Im going to take yet to fix it. After I take care of the clocking issue I will hook the horn up. First picture Is for those who want to know what we are taking about. The second picture is the old adapter that came with my steering wheel. Third pic is the quick release set up. Last pic is my clocking issue.
If any one is curious the set up below the steering wheel is a left hand wells engburg hand control for the gas and brake. Its cable driven, revs like a motorcycle and you push it toward the dash to stop. It’s really smooth to use. I also rigged up a counter brake on the right of the hand control,so I can apply the brakes to get it in and out of gear.

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The clocking issue can be easily solved by turning the tie rod sleeves. Loosen the lock bolts and turn them both one direction one full turn and look at the steering wheel, if it went the correct direction then keep turning both equally until the wheel is straight. If not then go the other way. As long as you go the same number of turns on both sides then your wheel alignment (toe in) will be the same.

 

[fastfreddys454ss]

You have an awesome build and lot of really great information on your thread, thank you for taking the time to post everything.

I'm converting to hydro boost and was curious which part number you went with? Did you have to modify anything?

I've been looking at this unit on Summit wondering if it was plug and play. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-52-7250

I have a 90' SS I've owned for over 20 years that I'm restoring. My SS has been heavily modified since it was driven off the show room floor. I may start a build thread on this site as well.

Not exactly plug and play. I did a write up on about June 18 called 2wd brake upgrade write up on the street build section page 2 will give you some answers to your questions

 

[bobby v]

The exhaust tips fit right in to nyour build Freddie
Bobby

 

[fastfreddys454ss]

I bought a used mandrel bender today to rebend the windshield down bars again. This time Im going to remove the q-logic kick panels with the speakers and put the stock blank kick panels back in. So I can curve the lower mount further to the front on the floor board and make it without the bolt in interlocking clamp. Then move the speakers to the door panels I bought a while ago or to the center console

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[Erik the Awful]

Sorry, but I feel compelled to comment. I'm hoping this is for show only, and it being a bolt-in cage, I suspect that's the case.

For reference for anyone building a roll cage, never put an S-bend in your cage. It compromises the compression strength of that length of tubing, and won't pass tech at any event with experienced tech inspectors that requires a true roll cage.