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I know it’s been gone over thousands of times, but I’m trying to get a clear picture of what I need to do the upgrade. I have a 96 GMC Yukon 2 door. My front brakes were SHOT and yesterday I replaced the rotors and pads with a set from Powerstop (K1990-36). I’m now looking into the master cylinder upgrade and found this one (Dorman M630031 Brake Master Cylinder for Select Cadillac / Chevrolet / GMC Models
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PYTM7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LR8yFbDAG48CV) and was wondering if that’s the correct one for my truck along with the BLF-26C adapter from AutoZone. Any help is appreciated.
FWIW, when I swapped over to the NBS MC upgrade I went with a Duralast NM3089. Works perfectly. A couple things to note, you will need some clear tubing (I forget the ID of the hose, I'll have to check tomorrow) to bench bleed the master cylinder. The master cylinder comes with the bleeding kit so it saves you money there but does not come with the plastic hose to route the brake fluid back to itself. I tried to bench bleed the MC by plugging the holes but it is very difficult to actuate the piston by hand when doing that method. In my thread (linked below), you'll see I went with the alternative method to bench bleeding. Also, If you take a look in my rear disc thread, one thing people do not mention is how far off the ports are for the brake lines. See here:
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/so-y...-02-tips-and-tricks-guide.49226/#post-1097239 . Either be prepared to cut the brake line and move it back, or manipulate the line to fit in the port.
When you replace the master, you will need to follow proper bleeding procedures after, bleeding the brakes from the farthest corner to the closest relative to the master. Before starting that process you must bleed the ABS module. People will say that you will need a GM Tech2 scanner but I used this method and it worked great:
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