Ardent Fabrication Autocross Truck

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ArdentFab

Ardent Fabrication
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So sick... even though we dont have SCCA here on the big island, I am building a 98 GMC to similar specs. Learning from your posts!
Much appreciated! Looking forward to seeing yours [emoji109]

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TheAutumnWind

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Got around to installing my rear sway bar the other night! Crappy pictures and a quick spray paint but it's in [emoji106]

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Wow, made a very noticable difference. Again, more than I was expecting.. but the true test will be at next weekends autocross. I have a few more things up my sleeves but I won't say anything yet, gotta keep ya'll on yer toes!

I'll try to snap some better pictures with real lighting and maybe I'll even wipe off the fingerprints from my camera lense #potatoecam

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Hard to tell how you attached the sway bar brackets to the axle tubes here. Welded I assume? I see a lof of guys using 3" exhaust clamps, which I intend to do also.
 

Supercharged111

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Don't suppose you have a writeup somewhere on how to convert from an auto to that AR5 transmission?

Give it a Google. I think the adapter kit uses a 4L60 bell but don't quote me. It's a cheap easy conversion that's for sure.
 

ArdentFab

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Don't suppose you have a writeup somewhere on how to convert from an auto to that AR5 transmission?

Give it a Google. I think the adapter kit uses a 4L60 bell but don't quote me. It's a cheap easy conversion that's for sure.

I don't have like a super detailed writeup really but I can explain kind of what l did and used essentially. Supercharged111, you're right, I did use a 4L60E bell housing but it had to be a particular one with a 7" depth, GM #24206952. Mine came from my buddies 2002 Silverado.

As for the adaptor, I got the Fabbot adaptor plate that adapts the 4L60E bellhousing to the AR-5 gearbox. The bell housing needs a little trimming towards the bottom but it wasnt difficult at all. I ended up drilling like a 2" hole for the clutch line but do yourself a favor and get the bleeder and line kit as well from Fabbot.

I'm using an LS1 flywheel and clutch assembly. I reused the throw out bearing that came with the transmission, it was in good condition.

Had the driveshaft shortened by 1.25" at a local driveshaft shop here in Arkansas (Dynamic Driveline, LLC) and they did an excellent job with it. I set me engine as far back as my ICT adjustable motor mount adaptors would allow for otherwise I could have just scooted the engine forward a bit and would have been fine. The front yoke from my 700R4 worked in the AR-5.

As for the shifter, I'm just using the stock one that came with the transmission. Marked where I wanted it underneath the truck and drilled a pilot hole, then followed up top with a 4" hole saw.

Let me know if anyone has any other questions, I dont mind at all! [emoji1690][emoji1690]
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Erik the Awful

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So, why the AR5? Availability? They're only rated for 260 lb/ft torque. Granted a T-5 only gets you to 300 lb/ft.

Sweet truck. I've been pondering getting a roller stepside, ditching the front sheetmetal for fiberglass, ditching the inner panels on the bed, slamming 5/7 on some wide stickies and seeing how it carves the cones. I'd probably even pony up for good cylinder heads.
 

Supercharged111

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So, why the AR5? Availability? They're only rated for 260 lb/ft torque. Granted a T-5 only gets you to 300 lb/ft.

Sweet truck. I've been pondering getting a roller stepside, ditching the front sheetmetal for fiberglass, ditching the inner panels on the bed, slamming 5/7 on some wide stickies and seeing how it carves the cones. I'd probably even pony up for good cylinder heads.

I know 1 reason is they're cheap
 
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