Truck cranks but doesnt start

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SUBURBAN5

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It it were me unless somebody else thinks others wise I swap the pump see if it starts and idle . Then plugin a scanner and read live data.. if it runs rough or missed then do a compression test. My experience 350 can take some abuse lol
 

PlayingWithTBI

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I think id much rather prop it up with a 2x4 and get the job done that way.
Just a friendly reminder, don't forget to disconnect the filler hose, vent hose, and the wiring harness on the back left side. Remove and clean the ground connections for the sender and pump, replace the suction sock and the fuel filter. Check the pressure hose that goes from the pump to the bottom of the cap for any cracks or bad spots.
 

alpinecrick

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Yeah sorry im a bit of a newbie when it comes to anything related to that stuff but no I havent done a compression test yet, I will do one this afternoon and let you know how it goes. I have a huge feeling that the timing chain may have jumped since it backfired with fluids. The first time I used starter fluids to start it up it backfired and my airbox cover went flying lol.

It's been my experience the timing chains on both the TBI's and Vortec's are pretty robust. It's always possible the chain can jump but it sure seems to be rare.

When I changed the timing cover on my 96 at around 230K, I bought a roller set ahead of time to replace the original set. The original gears and chain were fine, I replaced them with the roller set anyway, but it was probably a waste of my money.....
 

Bone Shaker

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I used the engine hoist to remove my bed for paint Works like a dream. Changed fuel pump, filler hose and vent hose. FYI upol raptor works great to protect the bottom side of the bed. Easy to paint frame and rear end while everything is apart (never heard of anyone using a hoist for this project. Should have known I wasn’t the 1st)

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Schurkey

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I just noticed...we have the same engine hoist.

ExCel Manufacturing W1000; and it's a monster. These are REAL 2-ton engine hoists, unlike the cheap Chinese jobs that have a short boom and undersized ram; and only have a "2-ton" rating because of the reduced leverage of the short lil' boom.

The hydraulic ram developed a leak on mine--fluid didn't leak out, but air leaked in so pumping the ram made it squishy and springy as the ram extended.

I ended up replacing it with an air-over-hydraulic ram, so now I connect it to compressed air, pull a trigger, and "up, up and away".
 

obsguy124

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Ive got a question for you folks. How would I test the injectors to see if the ECM is sending a signal? I know there are kits out there that use noid lights but where exactly would they go? (My truck runs spider injectors)
 

Crazydavez28

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Ive got a question for you folks. How would I test the injectors to see if the ECM is sending a signal? I know there are kits out there that use noid lights but where exactly would they go? (My truck runs spider injectors)

Does the truck try to run if you dump some gas down the intake?

I also highly recommend throwing a battery charger on there, it can make a questionable fuel pump work until the alternator kicks in.
 

obsguy124

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Does the truck try to run if you dump some gas down the intake?

I also highly recommend throwing a battery charger on there, it can make a questionable fuel pump work until the alternator kicks in.
No it doesn’t I’ve tried fuel and starter fluids but nothing seems to work, it backfires and sometimes seems like it will start but it doesn’t. I’ve also got my charger plugged in
 
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