Truck cranks but doesnt start

[someotherguy]

Just gotta work smarter, not harder.

As far as loctite goes, I've never had a bed bolt (other than extreme rust) that wouldn't come out by hand using a 1/2" breaker bar. I'd use the impact when handy, but I've also pulled plenty without an impact.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Heck even 2 engine hoists turns lifting a stripped chassis w/cab onto the trailer for hauling to the scrapyard into a 1 man job

You must be registered for see images attach

Fuel pump job even out in the street with a borrowed hoist...

You must be registered for see images attach

OK that's enough show and tell. Be sure you're testing that pump with a good gauge and like I said if your filter is old, replace it first, see if it helps. If not you're probably due for a fuel pump.

Richard

 

[stutaeng]

Dang Richard, lots of good ways to skin a cat. I was wondering if the engine hoist would have would have worked on a long bed and a picture is worth a thousand words as they say.

Thanks for sharing!

 

[alpinecrick]

The front strap of the fuel tank are prone to rust solid and easy to break attempting to remove it--it is a good idea to have a new spare. Having said that the bolts attaching the bed are also prone to rust and can be a Royal PIA and time consuming to remove. Plus don't forget the wiring and physically removing the bed via manpower or hoist.

I can drop a tank in less time than removing the bed. It's like removing the cab to pull the engine.........

I can't understand why so many are afraid of dropping the tank.

 

[someotherguy]

The front strap of the fuel tank are prone to rust solid and easy to break attempting to remove it--it is a good idea to have a new spare. Having said that the bolts attaching the bed are also prone to rust and can be a Royal PIA and time consuming to remove. Plus don't forget the wiring and physically removing the bed via manpower or hoist.

I can drop a tank in less time than removing the bed. It's like removing the cab to pull the engine.........

I can't understand why so many are afraid of dropping the tank.

Done plenty of both. If you're where things rust badly, dropping the tank is probably easier. For me, pulling the bed was cake.

Richard

 

[alpinecrick]

Done plenty of both. If you're where things rust badly, dropping the tank is probably easier. For me, pulling the bed was cake.

Richard

I'm a weekend warrior kind of mechanic and not particularly fast at it--plus I have a tendency to clean and paint parts as I go. So when I say it's not a hard job it's probably a really easy job for guys better at it then me....

 

[obsguy124]

Timing is NOT determined by distributor position. Timing is determined by the crank sensor, and the ECM. If you're getting spark, the crank sensor is likely fine.

Turning the distributor affects how close the plug wire terminals are to the rotor tip, so the spark will jump to the correct terminal with minimal resistance.


There's no easy test for the module except to see if it makes sparks when triggered. Anything beyond that requires special testing equipment; and frankly, I don't trust that sort of equipment.

By comparison, testing the coil is very easy. Ohmmeter testing of primary and secondary windings, including to ground. The ohmmeter testing can show a coil is faulty. It CANNOT prove a coil is good.

After the coil passes the ohmmeter testing, you then connect a spark-tester. If the coil can pass the ohmmeter tests, and reliably fire the spark tester, it's likely good.

Use a spark tester calibrated for HEI when testing an HEI system. A "points-style" spark tester won't load an HEI coil enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-...ywords=HEI+spark+tester&qid=1596678308&sr=8-6


Again...distributor position doesn't change timing.


I'm surprised that adding starter fluid didn't allow the engine to run.

Have you performed a cranking compression test? Jumped timing chain wouldn't prevent spark, but it might change the valve timing enough to cause problems.

Yeah sorry im a bit of a newbie when it comes to anything related to that stuff but no I havent done a compression test yet, I will do one this afternoon and let you know how it goes. I have a huge feeling that the timing chain may have jumped since it backfired with fluids. The first time I used starter fluids to start it up it backfired and my airbox cover went flying lol.

 

[obsguy124]

Just gotta work smarter, not harder.

As far as loctite goes, I've never had a bed bolt (other than extreme rust) that wouldn't come out by hand using a 1/2" breaker bar. I'd use the impact when handy, but I've also pulled plenty without an impact.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Heck even 2 engine hoists turns lifting a stripped chassis w/cab onto the trailer for hauling to the scrapyard into a 1 man job

You must be registered for see images attach

Fuel pump job even out in the street with a borrowed hoist...

You must be registered for see images attach

OK that's enough show and tell. Be sure you're testing that pump with a good gauge and like I said if your filter is old, replace it first, see if it helps. If not you're probably due for a fuel pump.

Richard

As for using a whole engine hoist that I dont have to lift up a bed, it seems like a good idea if say you wanted to remove rust and paint the frame but for the purpose of swapping a fuel pump I think id much rather prop it up with a 2x4 and get the job done that way.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Make sure you swap the pump though

 

[obsguy124]

Make sure you swap the pump though

Right thats still on the to do list, if replacing the pump wont work then ill take a look at the timing chain Vice Versa.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Timing chain cover black and plastic and a pain to remove