93- Oil Filter Cooling Line Question

[SweetNLo]

I just removed my 350 tbi motor from my 93 C1500. My Dad and I are installing a crate 350 with Vortec heads in the truck. The stock motor has two oil filter cooling lines going to it. The crate motor doesn't have the same setup. 1) Can I switch the cooling line setup over to the crate motor? 2) If so, any advice on how to switch over the setup? 3) If I can't make the switch, does anyone have advice on how to get around this difference? Thanks for any help!

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[mtl111]

The aluminum housing that the oil cooler lines go into on the block can be removed and put on your other engine. There are a couple bolts that bolt it to the block. If those lines are the normal quick disconnect type "hard to tell in the pic" i would advise getting the new fittings from the dealership and putting them in before the swap. The old fittings can leak, clips can fail then really bad things happen!
On the new engine, there should be a small aluminum oil filter adapter bolted to the block, remove it, bolt up your old oil cooler housing.

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[alpinecrick]

The 2wd and 4wd have the filters oriented differently--the 2wd filter is vertical, the 4wd filter is horizontal. As mtl said swap out the adapters/housing.

The GM quick connects have an O-ring in them and they will deteriorate, installing new O-rings will generally stop any leak(s). Although the quick connects are almost a bigger PIA than regular flare fittings.

 

[Busted Knuckle]

My oil cooler adapter at the engine had plugs over the bolt heads. We ground down an old 3/8" extension until they fit the square plugs. WTH size is that anyway?

Also be aware you will have to use the knock sensor from the orig motor if you keep the TBI. Anything wrong with the KS and the controller will turn up the trans pressure to max.

 

[SweetNLo]

Thanks for your detailed insight!

 

[SweetNLo]

Thanks for the help.

 

[SweetNLo]

The aluminum housing that the oil cooler lines go into on the block can be removed and put on your other engine. There are a couple bolts that bolt it to the block. If those lines are the normal quick disconnect type "hard to tell in the pic" i would advise getting the new fittings from the dealership and putting them in before the swap. The old fittings can leak, clips can fail then really bad things happen!
On the new engine, there should be a small aluminum oil filter adapter bolted to the block, remove it, bolt up your old oil cooler housing.

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Would you recommend replacing the oil cooler lines along with the fittings? I was looking around on RockAuto and it's about $60 for new lines. I found these fittings. Are these the fittings you were talking about? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3618480&cc=1031331&jsn=567&jsn=567 Thanks!

 

[mtl111]

The oil cooler lines eventually leak where the aluminum line is crimped to rubber. You don't have to replace them but it would be easier now and just insurance for the future. As for the fittings, the ones I'm used to on the Vortec engines look like this in the pic. I have no experience with the ones on the older trucks but if its a quick disconnect type I'd replace it.
A friend of mine has a 97' k1500 and his clip came out of the fitting and dumped his oil quickly resulting in a locked up engine. It definitely can happen.

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[SweetNLo]

The oil cooler lines eventually leak where the aluminum line is crimped to rubber. You don't have to replace them but it would be easier now and just insurance for the future. As for the fittings, the ones I'm used to on the Vortec engines look like this in the pic. I have no experience with the ones on the older trucks but if its a quick disconnect type I'd replace it.
A friend of mine has a 97' k1500 and his clip came out of the fitting and dumped his oil quickly resulting in a locked up engine. It definitely can happen.

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Sounds good. Thanks!

 

[SweetNLo]

My oil cooler adapter at the engine had plugs over the bolt heads. We ground down an old 3/8" extension until they fit the square plugs. WTH size is that anyway?

Also be aware you will have to use the knock sensor from the orig motor if you keep the TBI. Anything wrong with the KS and the controller will turn up the trans pressure to max.

Ahh! I should have heeded your advice on the knock sensor. My Dad and I switched over most of the parts (sensors, throttle body, thermostat housing, etc.) from the old engine to the Vortec motor, but overlooked the knock sensor. We installed the Vortec motor in yesterday. It started up, but it ran really rough. The check engine light was for Code 43 = Electronic Spark Control, which means I have to switch the knock sensor over. Darn it!! I ordered a new knock sensor, we'll install it later this week.
If the engine continues to run rough with the new knock sensor, do you have any suggestions on what to look out for? The EGR valve is on the radar if the engine is not running smoothly. Thanks for any help.