Does the M7B have the low pressure drop feature?
It's part of their LPD line, not sure which feature you're referring to specifically though.
https://trucool.com/products/tru-cool-lpd
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Does the M7B have the low pressure drop feature?
It's part of their LPD line, not sure which feature you're referring to specifically though.
https://trucool.com/products/tru-cool-lpd
I rebuild these all day everyday and my thoughts on it are first ...what did the fluid and bottom of the pan look like on the last transmission?...if there was any bits of metal or anything besides normal clutch material in the pan hands down replace it because no matter how good of a flush you think youve done a shops done a big huge machine or chemical dissolver has done or promised ....if you cant open that cooler up and see that its clean then trust me its not....little chunk of metal hanging out in the corner...for months days ...fluid changes ...even a trans change ...and then one day it decides it wants to go for a walk down tbe cooler line ...and boom transmission is done ....Just trying to figure out if I can safely flush my oem auto trans cooler? I can remove it, flush it, use compressed air to clean out solvent, etc... But want to know if it is recommended? I know some say just replace it. I have a brand new GM remanufactured 700R4 in my 92 c1500 now, but trans before this, and right before I bought it went out. Now I just tore up the front crank thrust bearing, apparently from too much pressure on torque converter pushing against crankshaft and pushing crankshaft forward with pressure wearing out bearing. I'd rather clean it out if it is ok.
Waiting to hear what the experts around here have to say
YES PLEASE DO NOT BYPASS THE RADIATOR....the term AUXILIARY means basically “in addition to” not “instead of”No problem!
Just FYI I would not bypass the radiator trans cooler. It actually provides a lot of extra cooling capacity and will also help the transmission get up to operating temperature faster. That last part may not be as important to you being in CA, but the extra cooling capacity will come in handy. Ideally I'd buy a new radiator if I were you, but that's quite a bit more money so if you're going to try flushing something I'd do it with that.
The converter pushing forward will tear up the REAR thrust bearing.Now I just tore up the front crank thrust bearing, apparently from too much pressure on torque converter pushing against crankshaft and pushing crankshaft forward with pressure wearing out bearing.
Metal appears to be coming from rear lip of the front thrust bearing. I don't have it apart. Still concentrating on getting new engine built, and truck back on the roadThe converter pushing forward will tear up the REAR thrust bearing.
Did you wreck the front, or the rear thrust bearing?
Is the crank any good?
I changed my trans cooler over to the M7B today. Upon inspecting, I found my truck has the exact same size cooler as the M7B. My stock one is the exact cooler, but with OEM flared fittings. I wish I would have looked at mine first, I would have rather just bought an OEM cooler that I didn't have to change fittings to use. My truck is a late production 1992 C1500 5.7l extended cab. My options tag says Heavy Duty Radiator, but no tow package. I'll post up pics tomorrow.