The Stupid Lowered Questions Thread

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sewlow

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Buy a set of lowering shackles. $50-$60.00? Then you have a choice of dropping the rear either 1 inch or 2.
Usually, these trucks need a 3" diff Fr>Rr to ride level.
If you do go to the 2" drop mounting point on the shackle, best check out the pinion angle.
May need a shim to bring the nose of the pinion back up.
But I doubt if you'll have to use that 2" drop to get level.
Still, be sure to check the pinion angle even with just the 1" drop.
...and if you have to shim the angle, you will have to get a longer centering bolt for the leaf springs.
Crank a nut to the head with some red loc-tite, followed by a rounding-off of the nut's shoulders to the diameter of the bolt's head.
This extends the head of the centering bolt & allows for it to drop down through the wedge & able to reach the locating holes in the spring perch pads on the diff.
GM list 4 different lengths of centering bolts for these trucks, according to the spring pack count.
C1500's use the shortest. Just get the next longest listed.
Cheap from the stealership. Not even 5 bucks.
Shims come in all different angles & widths. Thses trucks use a 2.5" wide spring, so the shim has to be the same.
The amount of degree to be shimmed will be determined by the truck.

Drop leafs. Ewww.

2nd from the top is as good as it gets for a 400.

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long_bed

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To those who've done full coilover conversion on a c1500, how's the ride quality and handling compared to an old-school static coil/shackle/hanger drop?

I'm only looking for a mild drop like a 2/4 as I need some ground clearance but a friend is trying to talk me into going this route.
 

RoJo2

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Buy a set of lowering shackles. $50-$60.00? Then you have a choice of dropping the rear either 1 inch or 2.
Usually, these trucks need a 3" diff Fr>Rr to ride level.
If you do go to the 2" drop mounting point on the shackle, best check out the pinion angle.
May need a shim to bring the nose of the pinion back up.
But I doubt if you'll have to use that 2" drop to get level.
Still, be sure to check the pinion angle even with just the 1" drop.
...and if you have to shim the angle, you will have to get a longer centering bolt for the leaf springs.
Crank a nut to the head with some red loc-tite, followed by a rounding-off of the nut's shoulders to the diameter of the bolt's head.
This extends the head of the centering bolt & allows for it to drop down through the wedge & able to reach the locating holes in the spring perch pads on the diff.
GM list 4 different lengths of centering bolts for these trucks, according to the spring pack count.
C1500's use the shortest. Just get the next longest listed.
Cheap from the stealership. Not even 5 bucks.
Shims come in all different angles & widths. Thses trucks use a 2.5" wide spring, so the shim has to be the same.
The amount of degree to be shimmed will be determined by the truck.

Drop leafs. Ewww.

2nd from the top is as good as it gets for a 400.

You must be registered for see images attach

Also- if you have a bolt in notch... you’ll be bottoming out with any load in they bed if you go lower than 1” additional. Even with the additional 1”... your not going to be able to haul much before sitting on the axel.


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Donald Mitchell

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Honestly, if you're trying to avoid notching, I would stick with a 2/4. When I had a 2/4, it wasn't all that hard to bottom out in the rear. With an extra inch, I'd have been slapping the axle all the time. Anything more than 4" really needs a notch.

As far as cutting, I don't know how much to tell you. Someone on FSC before had posted how much to cut to get x amount of drop, but that was a loooong time ago. My suggestion is time- and labor-intensive, but I would suggest to cut 1/2 coil and then put it together and see how it sits. If it's not low enough, cut another 1/2 coil and repeat until satisfied. It's a lot of extra work, but if you're going to try and save the money from buying drop springs, you can afford the time and work.
The springs I have cut have setteled a small amount over time so I agree with 1/2 coil to start with and drive it a while.
 

Donald Mitchell

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I'm not opposed to doing a flip kit but it sounds like it's not going to change my ride whatsoever. I like the idea of adding a 2" lowered spring to soften the ride in the rear....I realize a truck will ride like a truck but when i ride in my buddies stock 01 it's night and day. Is it better technology or my old leafs? I know there's a solution whether its the lowered springs or new stock height leafts and a flip.....
Probably just better foam in the seats!
 

Zooker

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How about an airlift slam air helper bag kit. You can buy it with or without a waterproof compressor. I have used the kit that also includes wireless remote. Can still tow without banging

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Junior_357

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Got my 2/4 drop installed this past weekend...it's great so far except for one problem. Alignment is good...new tire setup is good...no vibrations thus far (whew). BUT...something happened to my front e-brake cables. Either they are now stretched...or something in the geometry changed a TON because they are way long. Anyone here have that happen and/or have a solution for it?
 

sewlow

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Got my 2/4 drop installed this past weekend...it's great so far except for one problem. Alignment is good...new tire setup is good...no vibrations thus far (whew). BUT...something happened to my front e-brake cables. Either they are now stretched...or something in the geometry changed a TON because they are way long. Anyone here have that happen and/or have a solution for it?

Stumped. I don't remember working on the cables, but it was me & a bud doing the drop, so he may have messed with them while I was doing something else.
Somebody on the forum should have info.
 

Junior_357

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Stumped. I don't remember working on the cables, but it was me & a bud doing the drop, so he may have messed with them while I was doing something else.
Somebody on the forum should have info.
Thanks for the reply.

I am racking my noodle. Doesn't make sense...I could understand the rear cables being a little whacked, but the front ones have me stumped as well because not much change under the cab.

I have a thought...perhaps the cable popped off the pedal while I was relocating the bracket on the new bucket. I would check if monsoon season would end here in GA...

@sewlow - did your vibration issue show up immediately? Or did it develop over time? I've put 50-60 miles on mine, and had it up to 60mph...and no bad vibes yet. Hope I dodged that bullet...truck rides smooth as silk...

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sewlow

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Right outa the shop, I felt the vibe start at about 30mph & with speed, it only got worse.
Once I got it dialed in though, it's good to over 110. (Speed limiter is removed)
Good shocks were an improvement, too. Truck still had the originals up until it was lowered.
+ a rear sway bar helped.
+ some urethane bushings.
+ 40mm wider tires.
I can't leave things well enough alone. Lol!
 
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