Why isn't the 99 Tahoe listed on any kits and why only 2 door?

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b454rat

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Just found out my lift is an older TrailMaster lift. I talked to National Tire n Wheel, said the torsion bars are longer on the 4 doors. Now to me this doesn't seem right, but never looked into it.

Mange, I never lifted the Tahoe, and my Yukon has the 4". I have we'll say 90% of the parts to SAS my Yukon. Been gathering pieces for like 10 years it seems lol. Whenever I get a truck to put it on, I find something else that I'd rather have, or it ****** me off and get rid of it.
 

b454rat

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The way I look at it, if Offroaddesign.com carries it, it's a good kit. I've also heard Rough Country lift is good, possibly the best for the GMT-400s. Rancho's I guess was the kit to get back in the day. The way I look at it, I'd SAS it before I IFS lift it....but that's just me :)
 

Mange16v

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I know how you feel with that... I have a car I have had for about 14 years apart again and the first time I did it I made a rotisserie. Nothing too major but as I get older I kick myself for taking Air conditioning out. I have enough projects, three projects and mine and her daily. I think I am going to be ditching the one car because I really want a 70-73 Firebird.

Adding an expensive straight axle to the list doesn't seem smart. I still have to go pick up the Lq4 and 4l80e I found for the Tahoe. Its too cold to really do anything around here right now though. Unless I am really motivated I keep to the attached garage projects.

As for the suspension I think I am going to go with the Tuff Country and Bilstein shocks. I will probably put a considerable amount of miles on the truck so I want to keep it semi comfortable.
 

b454rat

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Solid axle can be done as cheap as a regular lift. All depends how cheap you can find parts or if you can make them yourself. I'm using a Dana 44, only plan on the biggest of a fat 36" tire, so no need for a 60. I bought an outer rebuild kit for it, only thing didn't come with is u-joints, which makes no sense. But that kit was $650, but comes with new hubs, rotors, lock outs, ball joints, and some other **** can't remember. The SAS kit was bout $500, crossover was about $400. But once it's in there, won't have to mess with it for years. And won't have to worry bout breaking anything if I do get lil stupid. But SAS ain't for everyone.....
 

Mange16v

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Yeah I am only going to go 33 at the most and I wont be wheeling often.. So the Tuff country it is. 4" is on sale for 981 shipped right now and I will get the Bilstein 5100 which are 315 shipped on amazon right now. I won't even put any of this in until I get the motor and trans swap ready. I will take the front clip off and just do it all at once.
 

98chevy2500SS

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Have you thought about a 285/75r16 and just a little crank with an inch lift block in the rear? That would be the cheapest option. These trucks look pretty good with that combo, or were you wanting to go to a 33x12.5?
 

Mange16v

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I do think I want a little lift, because as infrequently as I would be wheeling I'd like to have the extra clearance if I need it. I was hauling some firewood out of the woods and hit a wet spot and sank to the frame. lol I don't think I would have had an issue if I had a bit of a lift in it with some wider tires.
 

b454rat

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My old Tahoe had 235/85s on it, and tho not a 33 filled up the wheel well n looked OK. My Yukon has 4" with 33s on old school 8" rally's and has a perfect stance. I had 315/70/17s on it, and looked lil too stuffed. Plus it rubbed when turned.
 

Mange16v

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My old Tahoe had 235/85s on it, and tho not a 33 filled up the wheel well n looked OK. My Yukon has 4" with 33s on old school 8" rally's and has a perfect stance. I had 315/70/17s on it, and looked lil too stuffed. Plus it rubbed when turned.

Any pictures?
 
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