285s - MPG dropped... Normal?

[df2x4]

One more thing I feel compelled to mention in regard to the Black Bear tune...

Your signature says that both of your trucks have 4L60Es. If that's the case, do not, I repeat DO NOT have Black Bear alter your torque management settings. I did and that was a major factor that led to my eventual 4L80E swap in the red '97. I had them zero out TM on my original tune and my factory 4L60E was dead about 500 miles later.

Personally on a 4L60E truck I would leave your torque management AND shift firmness alone.

 

[98chevy2500SS]

Good to know! Though, it would be nice for my 98 to have a little chirp at second lol.

 

[kennythewelder]

Its awesome to pass some fool who is dragging ass and hit that second chirp as you go by. I love it.

 

[df2x4]

The chirp into second is definitely fun. My red truck has the little 4.3L and the 1-2 shift was violent after I had the 4L60E rebuilt and beefed up. So much so that I had Black Bear put all the trans settings back to factory shortly after getting the truck back on the road. If the pavement was wet it would break loose completely at WOT and do a rolling burnout through second. Putting all the torque management back in and resetting the shift firmness made it much more comfortable to drive, but it would still shift much firmer than factory and chirp the tires into second due to the TransGo HD2 shift kit that I had installed at the time of the rebuild. That beefed up 60E also died around 5K miles after the rebuild, but I digress.

I apologize for the novel. That was my roundabout way of saying that if you want a 60E to shift harder, I think you'd be better off installing a shift kit and/or upgraded servos compared to messing with transmission settings in the PCM. At least concerning reliability. Especially torque management, I'm convinced that they absolutely need that to survive.

 

[kennythewelder]

The Jet programer I have is just not that aggressive. I set everything to max. The shifts went from a long slow shift (OE) to a sharp shift. Not hard, just firm. I used to have real issues with traction, but after adding about 220 pounds of steel bar around the reciever hitch, dropping the back of the truck 2.5 inches, and putting 275/60/15 all the way around, it was a big help. I can still lite up the tires from a dead stop, but now I can take off from a stop in the rain, without taking off like 90 years old.

 

[kennythewelder]

Oh and I do know my 1/4 mile time is 15 seconds flat. All mods need to work together to achieve a proper running modified engine. My programer just helped to add to the mods I have already done. I would like to have a BB tune, but I just keep doing things to my truck. Maybe one day I will get to where I leave it alone. Ummmm lets see, a cam and head swap, flat tops, and a rebuild, or just do a 383 stroker IDK. We will see.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Ummmm lets see, a cam and head swap, flat tops, and a rebuild, or just do a 383 stroker IDK. We will see.

I'm thinking 383 short block with my existing bolt-ons next, when my 5.7 goes out.

 

[kennythewelder]

I know the trans build is coming first. We have a local shop that will do a performance build for around $2000. I trust them. I had a boss several years ago, that used them for his S-10 race truck. It was around 1500 HP. A 7.5 second 1/4 mile truck, or some where in that range anyway.

 

[df2x4]

I trusted my transmission builder too, he's done builds for several high power cars around here. Unfortunately my $2800 rebuilt 4L60E still met an early death behind my 99% stock V6. Like I said earlier I'm sure it was my fault for running it with no torque management in the tune at first, but that experience was enough to keep me from spending money on a 4L60E ever again. I would strongly encourage anyone thinking of building a 4L60E to hold any kind of power to stop and at least consider a 4L80E swap. I got my swap done for about $1000 more than my 4L60E rebuild cost me and that was with all labor included plus a ton of fancy parts.

Sorry for derailing the thread somewhat, just wanted to share. One of these days I'd like to take that dead 4L60E apart and see exactly what failed.

 

[Christian Steffen]

So I guess I should factor in getting the mileage on my odometer corrected when I send a cluster out to be rebuilt? I never knew the difference in miles was that severe.
Then I need to get off my ass and get HP tuners and start compensating for power loss with tuning. I can't find a 4.10 gear set to save my life and I don't want to lose the 285s
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I would also recommend the Black Bear tune, I bought a blemished computer and it showed up with like 7% of the paint still on it so I regret not paying for an unblemished ECM.
As much as the 0411 is worth it, I don't know that I'd ever do another one if I have to deal with all the problems again.

One thing to note, and please correct me if I'm wrong, but your 0411 was direct from lextech with his "base tune" correct?

I do believe that lextech has his tune for the 5.7 dialed in quite well, so 2500ss could probably run his base tune as is without issues (speculation). A couple of his "base tunes" for the 454s that i have looked at need some tweaking. IMO pay the extra money and get a tuned 0411 from BB, UNLESS you are planning to buy software and tune yourself.

I do not mean this to bash lextech in the least, he pretty clearly states that his tune is a "starter" tune, which i read as requiring tuning after the swap. The work he has done and still does is a great service to those of us that want better computers.