Aux. Radiator Fan ???

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bobby v

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So when I took the truck in the last time they found the relay switch wasn't turning the fan on so they replaced it, now it does come on but after going out to breakfast this morning (still very warm in Arizona BTW, 100' at 7am) I checked it when we pulled in the garage to make sure it was working.
Its running but doesn't seem to me that its spinning at a rate that would help cool, I can almost count the RPMs, not really but its not spinning like I think it should. It should be whirring away shouldn't it ??
They don't cost that much but I don't want to do it unless it helps.
Truck runs at 190-195 while moving but at signals it goes up to 220', doesn't boil over or even spit, its a pretty much stock 454, fresh flush with proper coolant also.
Any thoughts, should I replace the aux. fan ??
Thanks
Bobby V
 

Schurkey

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What is the amperage draw of the fan?

What is the voltage amount near the fan motor?

How much voltage is on the ground wire for the fan?

Be sure the electrical supply is adequate before replacing the motor that powers the fan.
 

bobby v

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Thanks Schurkey but I don't know any of those things as usual :( All I know is that it has a complete replacement available with the connector also, the new one does have 8 blades compared to 5 on the one in there now.
Unless this one is a variable speed fan it just doesn't look to be turning fast enough to help out at all, and it should be at max cause the temp is reading at over 215', a/c on also.
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15-8...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZZP57C6611SW3W5TWETP
In reading abput these fans they do mention a slow fan speed could be sighs of a worn out motor??
 

Schurkey

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It "could" be fifteen different things. A failed motor is one of them. When the radiator fan motor failed on my Lumina, the fan ran slow (but it was an easy diagnosis--the fan blades wobbled all over because the motor bearings were destroyed.)

It would be irresponsible to throw a motor on and hope for the best--but folks do it all the time because they value the easy solution over spending time tracking down problems. And there's enough success this way to keep the easy-solution process going.

"I" would do diagnostics first, to see if the motor is the problem, or the power supply. It's entirely possible you've got corroded wire connections, burnt contacts in a relay, pinched wire, etc.

It's too bad you don't have an on-site mentor to show you the "tricks of the trade". No car clubs in the area? No community college with automotive repair classes? Guys who gather at some watering-hole for "cruise night"?

The only guy I know in Havasu is into hot-rod boats. I visited him one time as I was considering buying a boat from him. The deal didn't work out. Had a nice couple days in Havasu, though.
 
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bobby v

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Schurkey, I guess I can check the volts or amps coming to the fan it self at the connector with my multimeter huh. The relay or switch whatever its called was found to be faulty as I said in the OP and the shop replaced that, and now it does come on but as I sadi it sure looks SLOW to me, not like other electric fans Ive seen run that are a blur.
So Ill try that and report back.
Every time I ask someone something they don't seem very interested in my problems, IE the idle with the TBI, they just sort of turn their noses up and mutter something about those damn things lol. So far no one has come up with a fix, here in town at least, Im sure a guy like you would ut alas you are million of miles away
Bobby V
 

PlayingWithTBI

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The relay or switch whatever its called was found to be faulty as I said in the OP and the shop replaced that, and now it does come on but as I sadi it sure looks SLOW to me,
I seem to remember originally, from another post, it was turning slow because of the air flowing through it from the inside fan(s). When you took it to the shop they fixed it and it ran great? Or am I wrong? As @Schurkey said, check for voltages at the relay and fan.

What about taking it back to them, maybe something they did?
 

Schurkey

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Most multimeters have an amperage limit of 10 amps continuous.

The fan may pull more than that--I don't know. I would be using a clamp-on ammeter, not the one built-into the multimeter. But voltage tests are better than nothing.
 

bobby v

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The fan does turn and its faster than if it were just being rotated by outside forces, but I have had electric fans on other cars and they SPIN!!! Enough in some cases to be noisy, not so with this one for sure, I really don't think its fast enough to be doing any good whatsoever, plus it has only 5 straight blades where the new models have 8 curved blades, should be more efficient right because it ahs to move more CFMs
To check it at the harness connection the motor will have to be hot enough to trigger the switch correct, which the shop said was 205', so I'll have to wait until I have it out again I guess.
How you doing TBI, Old Desert Guy, hot enough for ya lol.
116' here today
Bobby
 

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How you doing TBI, Old Desert Guy, hot enough for ya lol.
116' here today
Bobby

Just flushed my A/C evaporator, hoses, replaced the compressor, condenser, drier/receiver, orifice tube, and started evacuating the system, put the grill back on (with the help of my son) in about 1-1/2 hours, then went to Auto Zone to pick up some colder NGK plugs, installed them, charged the system, took it out for a test drive, came in for a couple Dos XXs, and looked at the weather station - 120* @ 3:30

Another great day in the neighborhood, LOL. Hope life's good for you! Some day we'll have to get together and have some red meat and a glass or 2 of wine!
 

JackE

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Quick test of the fan, hook up jumper wires from the battery and see if it will 'sing' at full speed. If it does, no need to replace unless you really want the other fan.
 
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