Replaced lock cylinder, now it starts but won't run

[Bigoilman]

Helping my son's friend. His '98 K1500 was stuck with the key immovable and the steering wheel locked. I ended up having to drill out the lock cylinder. I thought I was careful and didn't think I damaged the switch. However, now it starts but won't run. Fuel pressure is good. It sounds like it's going to start but just shuts back down. I initially thought the factory security system had me locked out (even thought the light on the dash flashes a couple of times then goes out). Now I'm wondering if I damaged the ignition switch or if a I didn't quite get it clean enough before putting the new lock cylinder in.

Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

Richard

 

[delta_p]

I have a '96 but i read a lot of service manual. This sounds like a theft lockout/ PASSLOCK something or other. Go here and get volume 1 for the '98 C/K "section 9D" for Theft deterants, and see if the tamper mode or something is lockout the fuel injectors.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/88-95-service-manuals.43575/

 

[Bigoilman]

I have a '96 but i read a lot of service manual. This sounds like a theft lockout/ PASSLOCK something or other. Go here and get volume 1 for the '98 C/K "section 9D" for Theft deterants, and see if the tamper mode or something is lockout the fuel injectors.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/88-95-service-manuals.43575/

Thanks. Downloaded and read through that part of the manual. Great for a dealership but my Torque Pro app shows no codes and I don't have access to any other type of scanner.
I discovered that it will run with fuel poured directly in the throttle body. I thought maybe the BCM had the fuel pump disabled but I was able to bypass the fuel pump relay to keep the pump running and the truck still won't run.

 

[skylark]

It is passlock. Here is how to reset it.


Step 1 – Attempt to start the vehicle. It will crank, but not run. The security light will be flashing on and off. Leave the key in the ‘run’ position for exactly 10 minutes, then the security light will stay solid or go off.

Step 2 – Turn the key to the ‘off’ position for 10 seconds. Attempt to start the vehicle. Some vehicles will run at this point, although many will require you repeat repeat Step 1 two more times. Make sure turn the key to the ‘off’ position for 10 seconds before each 10 minute cycle.

Step 3 – The vehicle is now ready to relearn the proper code. Turn the key ‘off’ for 10 seconds and then ‘crank’ the vehicle. It should be running now. The security light might stay on solid for several minutes afterwards, depending on your system.

 

[Eveready]

It is passlock. Here is how to reset it.

That one was saved to my "Truck" folder. Although I don't have passlock someone will need that info again and yes there is a "source" line in the file. Thanks for posting that one.

 

[someotherguy]

Hope the cylinder you installed is spec'd for the 1998 model as older ones will fit but not work correctly. Earlier models do not have Passlock.

Richard

 

[Bigoilman]

It is passlock. Here is how to reset it.


Step 1 – Attempt to start the vehicle. It will crank, but not run. The security light will be flashing on and off. Leave the key in the ‘run’ position for exactly 10 minutes, then the security light will stay solid or go off.

Step 2 – Turn the key to the ‘off’ position for 10 seconds. Attempt to start the vehicle. Some vehicles will run at this point, although many will require you repeat repeat Step 1 two more times. Make sure turn the key to the ‘off’ position for 10 seconds before each 10 minute cycle.

Step 3 – The vehicle is now ready to relearn the proper code. Turn the key ‘off’ for 10 seconds and then ‘crank’ the vehicle. It should be running now. The security light might stay on solid for several minutes afterwards, depending on your system.

Tried that multiple times. No change.

Hope the cylinder you installed is spec'd for the 1998 model as older ones will fit but not work correctly. Earlier models do not have Passlock.

The first one we tried wasn't. This one is supposed to be correct. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/locksmart-ignition-lock-cylinder-lc63230/20970869-P But it didn't solve the probelm either. Passlock definitely has the injectors locked out. I think the Passlock sensor has failed (possibly damaged when I drilled out the lock cylinder?).

I've got some resistors coming to try and bypass the sensor in case it's a key issue (cheapest fix).

If not, I guess we'll bite the bullet and order the New Rockies module www.newrockies.com for $259 and just bypass the whole system.

All this because the key wore out. JEEZ

Richard

 

[TW97C1500]

Hope the cylinder you installed is spec'd for the 1998 model as older ones will fit but not work correctly. Earlier models do not have Passlock.

Richard

Cool, this answered my question. I have a 97 and the lock is getting worse and worse with hang-ups. I can simply buy a cylinder and install it, with no jumping through hoops required, right?

 

[df2x4]

"If not, I guess we'll bite the bullet and order the New Rockies module www.newrockies.com for $259 and just bypass the whole system."

You'd be a lot better off sending your PCM to Black Bear Performance for around the same price and having them disable PassLock in the tune. No extra electronics to add, no "fooling" the system, just switch it off in the computer.

 

[Bigoilman]

"If not, I guess we'll bite the bullet and order the New Rockies module www.newrockies.com for $259 and just bypass the whole system."

You'd be a lot better off sending your PCM to Black Bear Performance for around the same price and having them disable PassLock in the tune. No extra electronics to add, no "fooling" the system, just switch it off in the computer.

I'll check that out. Maybe my local tuner that does my LS stuff can tune it out.