CCLB dually #2

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Supercharged111

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That explains why my 1500 has it but not my 3500. Luckily the donor 3500 didn't have it either, that MAP sensor on the fuel tank. I can quit worrying about that now, thanks!
 

Supercharged111

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Got lucky on the throttle pedal/cable swap, PO punched the knockout to run wiring for Banks gauges in the exact location of the gasser throttle cable so all that just snapped right into place. Easy peasy. Also got the lower shroud and fan installed, then noticed something was awry. Apparently the fan clutch did not survive the donor's collision.

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Also got the fuel filter installed. Turns out the 6.5 lift pump has a smaller diameter than the gas fuel filter.

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And finally, showing the 454 plug on the left in blue and the 6.5 connectors on the right in red.

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454 was a 99 and 6.5 was a 98 so same wiring generation, just different schemes. If I get this wiring nailed I can fire this thing up and take a stroll.
 

JSlezak83

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Been a little under the weather the past few days. I took a bunch of pics from the service manual, specifically of those connectors. I’ll load them up when I get home from work.
 

Supercharged111

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I appreciate it, I wasn't sure if I'd really laid out what I needed very clearly in my previous posts.
 

JSlezak83

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So there is a lot of wiring in the service manual. To keep things easy to follow, I’ll start out with what you have circled in that last photo. The sun was casting some nasty shadows, let me know if you can’t make anything out.

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Supercharged111

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Sweet! Looks pretty clear from behind the keyboard. Were it not for the trans range switch (I'll likely bypass this to attempt a start) I bet the truck would fire up as it sits. Going to swap battery trays tomorrow and finish up horsing around with the battery cables (decided on a simpler, yet still free fix) to bring some form of life to the truck. A closer look revealed a crack in the brake reservoir which is what I suspected was the case. Did a gravity bleed to purge the front channel, but the rear channel had no (gravity) flow so I'm a little concerned there unless the 30 or so minutes I waited for a drip wasn't enough. I have the tools to do a pressurized bleed, so no biggie there unless something is good and ******.
 

JSlezak83

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Let me know what else you need for wiring needs. It may take a day or two, but I’ll get you what you need.

As for the brakes, if the reservoir ran dry, wouldn’t you need a scan tool to purge the ABS module? I’ve got to do a pressure bleed on my truck, as well as a hydro boost bleed. The brakes are fairly spongy.

Any recommendations on master cylinder? From what I’ve read on here, everything from the parts store is ****. Im half inclined to get a hone and rebuild kit.
 

Supercharged111

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Over the course of the week I've gotten a ton of piddly **** done. Things like undoing and rerouting the parking brake cable so it isn't stretched out like a rubber band every time it goes on the lift, then putting 3" more tension on it so it actually does its job (which required a torch to heat the nut to get it to spin). Got the fuel filter and mount in, front section of charcoal can line in and mounted properly. Routing that and the fuel pump/taillight harness was more of an asspain than I thought up front where they all interweave. Got the AC and PS and mount in and torqued, had a bent mount to horse with and no good way to get leverage on it. PS and hydroboost lines all installed, topped off gear oil front and back, bled the front brakes, failed at the rears, got the battery cables routed and put back together (PO chopped them after the donor truck got wrecked, they were long enough to reuse with some universal dealies I had in the garage), swapped hood release handles and got the kick panel back on, moved the brake controller over and got it hanging by more than 1 screw, rotated the tires, torqued the mysteriously loose body mount bolts. A lot of this stuff took 2 or 3 attempts because I'd go to do it and wouldn't have the tool, so bring it tomorrow try again. A good example is the battery situation. I had 2 batteries at home that I thought I'd saved with the desulfator. They were reading like 12.5V at rest off the charger. That was all well and good until I put the first one in the truck. The flasher relay started freaking out so I yanked that, turned the key on and nothing really happened. Dome lights worked though. Next day I brought out the better of the 2 and it was over 9V whereas the other was under. This one would run the fuel pump though, so I know that much works. Also found a leak where I forgot to tighten the return at the union down on the frame. When I turned to start, the solenoid clicked so now I know I don't need those 2 glove box connectors dealt with to get the thing started. I was thinking I would because of the transmission range switch stuff. So below is a list of **** I need to get to finish this thing, so so close:

Brake reservoir
Shift cable
2.75" exhaust tube
A pillar trim, driver's side (truck had Banks gauges which I removed)
454 intake elbow
Engine fan and clutch
Charcoal canister line that runs to the engine
Whatever I haven't identified yet

At least it looks more complete now.

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Here's how it sat before I started again this year, but the grill, lights, and hood were obviously alread on.

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What you can't see is the rat's nest of wiring I had to remove from this thing. Should no longer be a fire hazard when I'm done with it.
 
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Supercharged111

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Finally got off my ass, swiped the battery from the Monte, and dropped it in this truck. It fired the instant I hit the key, but it won't stay running. It fires then immediately acts as though the fuel has been cut. Ideas? I'm inclined to believing this is due to the swap, I just don't know what input it could be missing.
 
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