What can I expect to pay for this paint/body work?

[upper_tanker]

I know it's going to greatly vary from region to region. I'm in southeast Michigan. I have a 97 2 door Tahoe that I'd like to get the rockers replaced, as well as a small rust spot above the passenger side rear wheel (Not through, but there is a rust spot), and a new used tailgate painted to match the truck. I'd also like to get the hood repainted, it's starting to chip and get crows feet.

I've only had body work to one other vehicle of mine, which was an entire repaint with no bodywork. I got HAD. I'd like to take this to a few body shops for some estimates this spring. I'm really leery of doing this, as I know bodywork can be / is just like Mechanic work, and many other skilled jobs. You get the hacks, and you get the good people. I don't mind paying a lot for a perfect/really good job, but I want to avoid getting screwed.

What's the ballpark range that I'm looking at for this to happen? I know that, at the LEAST, the entire rear passenger side quarter panel is going to have to be painted after the rust fix. I'm hoping that it will blend in enough with the current paint that's on it to not have to paint the entire side. It seems like every project that I get into always ends up costing 2x or 3x what I plan on.

 

[df2x4]

It seems like every project that I get into always ends up costing 2x or 3x what I plan on.

Hard to say for sure without pictures, but I'd say this one will be no exception. Your description sounds a lot like the body issues I have on my '97 Suburban, and the good body shop here in town gave me an estimate of around $7K. Good body and paint work is expensive as hell.

 

[88monteSS]

Definitely need pics to get a better idea.

I'll throw out there that you're likely looking at more painting than you'd think if it's still the original paint. The OE paint is prone to delamination when trying to prep it for blending, so depending on the condition it may have to be stripped back further than normal to get a solid base for a good blend. I'll try to grab a pic tomorrow of just how much we had to strip to patch a quarter sized spot on my door.

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[df2x4]

^ That's exactly what the body shop I got my estimate at said. I've used them on many vehicles in the past and I trust their judgement. They said that blending anything properly with the OEM paint would be pretty much impossible, full repaint is what they recommended.

 

[c1500deathtrap]

Why not paint it yourself?

 

[Curt]

Like you said, it varies greatly per region, but I got my Suburban repainted back in 2013 for around the $3k mark IIRC for an exterior respray. Didn't need any additional bodywork or rust repair.

 

[upper_tanker]

Definitely need pics to get a better idea.

I'll throw out there that you're likely looking at more painting than you'd think if it's still the original paint. The OE paint is prone to delamination when trying to prep it for blending, so depending on the condition it may have to be stripped back further than normal to get a solid base for a good blend. I'll try to grab a pic tomorrow of just how much we had to strip to patch a quarter sized spot on my door.

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I figured as much. I just figured that if the new tailgate only needs paint, the only thing that would need to be painted (along with the bodywork to fix rust and replace rockers) would be the entire rear right side quarter panel and hood (no bodywork to hood)
Body work meaning no rust repair.

^ That's exactly what the body shop I got my estimate at said. I've used them on many vehicles in the past and I trust their judgement. They said that blending anything properly with the OEM paint would be pretty much impossible, full repaint is what they recommended.

Why not paint it yourself?

My dad actually has an old, dated paint booth in his shop. My grandpa was a body guy and painter back in the day. Up until a few years ago, he did bodywork / painted a few of my dads trucks. Now, at his age (89 this year), he just (understandably) doesn't want to do it anymore. I, personally, don't have the time to do it, and I feel like because it's my truck and I know nothing about paint/body, I'd spend way too much time trying to make it perfect. I think I'd be redoing it a bunch of times trying to get it perfect.

This is good to know. I'm suspecting this will probably be the case, even though the paint, for the most part (besides the hood), is in really good condition.

Like you said, it varies greatly per region, but I got my Suburban repainted back in 2013 for around the $3k mark IIRC for an exterior respray. Didn't need any additional bodywork or rust repair.

$3k for this work would be nice...I just hope they don't tell me they want to repaint it all. My goal is just to stop the rust and make it look a little better. My goal is not to have it be showroom quality, as it's a driver and I don't want to worry about driving it. Now that I'm thinking about it, I was talking to our guy at the welding shop that we go to and he told me that there's a painter / body guy in the shop next door that's unmarked. I was asking him about it, and he said he will do a $30k show quality job, or he will do your usual Maaco job. Just talk to him and tell him what your budget is and what you want, and he will tell you what he can give you for that price. He always has one of three sick ass 400s out front that are super clean. I think I will stop in and talk to him. Worse case, I will have one part done every few months or so if it's not going to add too much extra cost for me.

 

[upper_tanker]

I don't have any pictures up close of the body issues. The rockers aren't really bad at all, just a little surface rust starting. I'd still like new rockers, though. That back passenger qp is the worst.

 

[df2x4]

I will add one more thing. If the estimate a shop gives you sounds low or even just a little too reasonable, there's a good chance they might half-ass the work. I went to a cheaper shop one time with my Suburban (Even though I had used the good expensive shop before and should have known better) for similar stuff. Rocker rust, minor roof rust and minor hood rust. They re-painted just where it was absolutely necessary. That cost me about two grand and about a year later the rust was coming back in the exact same places. Next time I'm going back to the shop that gave me the higher estimate because I know from experience that their work will stand up to the test of time. Once burnt, lesson learn't. I'm sure not all the cheaper shops are scam artists but buyer beware.

For the record, here's my Suburban as it sits now with the worst rust damage displayed. It's not a great picture but if you zoom in under the rear door and around the rocker you can see the nastiness. It looked better than this years ago when I got that $7K estimate. For the sake of the regional price difference discussion this is in Missouri.

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Someday I'll bring myself to spend the cash or learn body work...

The rockers aren't really bad at all, just a little surface rust starting.

You might want to crawl under the truck and have a good look to confirm that. I thought the same thing when the rockers on my Suburban first started to go but the rust was actually working its way through from the back side of the panel.

 

[c1500deathtrap]

Sounds like its time to take some leave and drag gramps to the shop for a hands on lesson. sure he can't paint, but maybe he would be willing to teach?