He hasn't moved yet he's still in Texas. He's working on moving but hasn't moved yet plus if you have bin watching him as long as me you'd know he's bin wanting to move to Utah for year's. And if he's trying to hide why's he showing his nice new shop and telling everyone were it is just saying
I've watched quite a few of them. I also find the guy entertaining. Typical bodyman attitude. Talk crap and rip on each other all day long and nobody goes home bent.
Some of his information is good and some is just misinformation. He's doing bodywork like it was 30 years ago. Products and methods have changed since then. Those of us that do it for a living and/or working in collision shops are kept up to date
A couple I can recommend. Watch the one on All-Metal filler where he starts with an old dried out can of the stuff that's been left open for how long and slams the product because he couldn't get it mixed correctly. All Metal is actually pretty good stuff but I wouldn't use it everywhere on everything. Watch the one where he turns the can of Dyna-lite around. You'll notice that alot. He turns products around often. No, it has nothing to do with advertising. He's using the lowest grade cheapest products. Watch the one where he suggests any reducer is good reducer. No again, cheap **** reducer can cause dieback and other issues such as peel or solvent pop. It's not where you want to save the $10 that's going to ruin the job or create 3 days worth of buffing. You don't want to be using synthetic enamel grade reducer or the like in urethane products. He's mentioned in several videos he has clear die back issues and has to buff everything. Watch the clearcoat comparison where he slams all of them and doesn't even include the 2nd tier product he uses. Who's to say he used the right reducer if and when he used any of them. Uv inhibitors are what makes the clear more yellow. The PPG clear was more yellow because it had the most UV protection. Watch the sandpaper comparison where he sands with the norton and 3m red for 30 seconds, switches to 3m Green Corps and stops after 15 and you can clearly see it was cutting harder. The car he was doing it on really needed blasting but in his defence, he might have not been able to sell blasting. In 6"da, 8"da, and fileboard, in 36,40 and 80g Green Corps is about the best paper there is bar none. The other 2 half rolls he had laying there, also some of the cheapest stuff you can buy. I really liked the episode when he demanded the paint shop clerk pour almost a quart of acrylic tinting base into 2 qts of epoxy primer to turn it blue. Truth is a lot of modern paint formulas call for a tinted sealer for coverage purposes. Pete would rather modify the epoxy into an acrylic instead of buying the right stuff. Watch the one where he's getting ready to cut a Camaro rear body in half and section it. That would get me ****-canned.
It's not been long since he bought a Sata and put the Binks 7 down. A Binks 7 puts nearly 50% of your materials in the air. A#7 was a workhorse of a gun in it's day but they were out of fashion 30 years ago. He could have been buying better clear and putting it on the car instead of buying cheap stuff and putting half of it up the booth stack.
He talks alot of high end talk, but other then the occasional can of Concept base all I see are low end materials along with some antiquated methods. When they do a video on a finished car they bounce around it real quick then show off the underhood and interior, or focus on one panel. I've never seen enough of a finished car to really even make a judgement call if it looks good or bad.
If you want to go on about how great he is have at it but he's targeting the novice that doesn't know any better and encouraging them to play mad chemist. The best advice and what he should be saying is to follow the manufactures tech sheets for the product you buy. It has all the info you need to know.
I wish him luck. I hope putting a paint shop in a sand pit works out for him.