Bigger, Better Brakes on a 97 2500

[454cid]

00-10? 2500/3500srw with 6.0 engines had GM FF 14B 10.5 with 12.9-13" disc brakes..
00-10? 2500 suburbans got the 9.5 SF 14B with disc brakes

The HD GMT-800's were not available until 2001. All 3500 pickups (and some 2500s) were GMT-400s through 2000.

iirc AAM took over the 10.5" stuff in '11 with the 900 series trucks

It was 1994.

 

[malibu795]

GMT-455 ran to 2002
my 01 2500 suburban as a GM SF14B in the back

 

[454cid]

GMT-455 ran to 2002
my 01 2500 suburban as a GM SF14B in the back

I'm not sure where you're going here.

 

[malibu795]

if AAM took over the 14B stuff in 94 as you say....... why do I have an OEM corporate 14B in the back os my 2002 2500 suburban, and can get corprated FF 10.5 14B in trucks up to at least 2010
the 1150 is AAM since 2001.

 

[454cid]

if AAM took over the 14B stuff in 94 as you say....... why do I have an OEM corporate 14B in the back os my 2002 2500 suburban, and can get corprated FF 10.5 14B in trucks up to at least 2010
the 1150 is AAM since 2001.

AAM was started as a buyout of part of what had been GM's Saginaw division. It's a spin off company just like Delphi. AAM builds the axles for GM.

The 11.5" axle has always been AAM, GM never built it. It's kind of a bigger 10.5".

 

[Gibson]

If you still want to convert your rig to rear discs, then this outfit has been doing it for over 35 years, and has NEW calipers that allow you to keep tour E-brakes;

http://www.tsmmfg.com/

 

[454cid]

If you still want to convert your rig to rear discs, then this outfit has been doing it for over 35 years, and has NEW calipers that allow you to keep tour E-brakes;

http://www.tsmmfg.com/

Those are Cadillac/Olds FWD rear calipers. TSM even calls them "Small GM Rear". I doubt they would be an upgrade in braking power.... maybe weight?

http://www.tsmmfg.com/More.../3110.html

 

[Gibson]

Those are Cadillac/Olds FWD rear calipers. TSM even calls them "Small GM Rear". I doubt they would be an upgrade in braking power.... maybe weight?

http://www.tsmmfg.com/More.../3110.html

You got to dig a little deeper into their website, and their are a couple of mistakes in it.
The caliper you referenced, the #3110, is the small one with a 2 1/32 piston.
You can get the larger caliper, #3120, which has a 2 13/32 piston, a big difference in swept area.
Its just that the website miss-identified it as a front caliper.
I know, I put one of their kits on an 8,600 gvw square body with a FF 14 bolt, that regularly carried heavy loads, and the stopping ability was much better than the factory disc/drum set-up,,.
However, I agree, that if someone can get an 800 axle for cheap, and change the mounting scheme, than that is a good way to go.

 

[83GMCK2500]

I'll also throw this into the mix; while it's important that your rear brakes are working properly - they only play a supporting role in the overall braking power of your vehicle. The split is like 70/30 front/rear. If you want noticeable improvements in braking power, first make sure the rears are adjusted and working properly...then look into upgrades for the front.

Despite lots of internet and marketing claims otherwise, there's no magic brake pad, drilled/slotted/plated/frozen/sprinkled/smothered rotor, or fancy caliper that will accomplish this unless the pad is seriously more aggressive compound than stock, and the rotors are considerably larger and calipers multi-piston. Same goes for stainless braided lines. They look nice (and you'll never see them) and they are durable but the one real benefit they offer is if you're using them to replace stock hoses that have gone bad.

I don't personally know of any upgrades for the front on an 8 lug 2500. I think they're already pretty stout. If you have a vacuum booster, you could try the hydroboost conversion. Obviously doesn't increase the power of the rest of the system, but makes it easier for your foot to apply maximum force to what you've got.

Richard

Richard, for the 8-lug trucks it is possible to install the knuckles (and bearings, CVs, etc) from a GMT-800 truck, converting the front over to the newer dual piston caliper and/or whatever exists in the aftermarket for the GMT-800 trucks. Post #64 in my thread, hopefully this link works (I have a high post/page setting): https://www.gmt400.com/threads/1996...nv-4500-daily-driver.23693/page-4#post-853821

Continuing with what you've mentioned it is also 100% necessary to perform an ABS bleed procedure with a bi-directional scan tool to ensure all of the air is removed from the system. I've seen so many threads where someone throws countless parts at a squishy/soft pedal and when they finally take it to someone with the proper scan tool their problems are corrected.