Bowtie Brody's Namesake 96 454

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BNielsen

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Did your buddy buy it? I had the listing saved on FB Marketplace and it said it sold;

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Just look at it;
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As I posted in another thread; I managed to find one of the little cover things for the cables that run to the rear-view mirror; I was looking for one when I do the dual function compass/thermometer mirror which is probably gonna happen when I tear the interior down for sound deadening.
It cleans up the interior in a slightly unnoticeable way, it's weird.
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Mangonesailor

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Did your buddy buy it? I had the listing saved on FB Marketplace and it said it sold

Don't think so. He was thinking on it. He low-balled him at $5300 and the seller told him to beat feet. He upped his offer to $6500 and the guy said maybe.

I told him when he got back to work he was an idiot. I paid $7200 for mine with 90k 4yrs ago. I said "It's a crew cab, short bed, and the cab isn't even rusted out. Plus it has a 4L80E. You're not going to find a deal like that again.

We'll see.
 

BNielsen

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Don't think so. He was thinking on it. He low-balled him at $5300 and the seller told him to beat feet. He upped his offer to $6500 and the guy said maybe.

I told him when he got back to work he was an idiot. I paid $7200 for mine with 90k 4yrs ago. I said "It's a crew cab, short bed, and the cab isn't even rusted out. Plus it has a 4L80E. You're not going to find a deal like that again.

We'll see.

I paid $6200 for mind with 143K; the guy was asking 7K for it and if I would've known my truck needed injectors when I bought it I probably could've gotten it for $5800.
Still happy with it though.
 

Mangonesailor

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Yeah, the only thing I could find wrong with mine was the water pump leaking. Knocked $200 off the price.

Then about a week later I noticed the intake gaskets leaking... which started my journey modding everything I could get my hands on "while I'm in there."
 

BNielsen

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So the time has come to address my braking situation. As much as I'd love to do the NBS knuckle; I need to go with a 100% bolt on solution due to not being able to have the truck down for an extended period of time.

In searching for parts on RockAuto, I sourced a set of Timken wheel bearings, Raybestos rotors, Power Stop pads and AC Delco calipers....it all priced out to around $450-$500...
So I started researching other sources and came across this on 1A Auto;
https://www.1aauto.com/brake-and-wheel-bearing-kit/i/1abms00052?f=805676&y=1997
Has anyone had any experience with these? I think they're TRQ brand wheel hubs and the rotors and pads are Nakamoto; should I try this or bite the bullet and drop coin on the Timkens and Raybestos?
 

454cid

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In searching for parts on RockAuto, I sourced a set of Timken wheel bearings, Raybestos rotors, Power Stop pads and AC Delco calipers....it all priced out to around $450-$500...

If you are replacing all that, why not upgrade to the dually front brakes? You'll get thicker rotors, and larger pistons.

I would add brake hoses to your list.

I'd get calipers locally unless you're getting a screaming deal. Oreilly let me use the SRW calipers as cores for the new DRW calipers, since the core charge was the same. Plus, if I have one that needs to be replaced, I can exchange it in town under warranty instead of waiting on shipping or a refund.

So I started researching other sources and came across this on 1A Auto;
https://www.1aauto.com/brake-and-wheel-bearing-kit/i/1abms00052?f=805676&y=1997
Has anyone had any experience with these? I think they're TRQ brand wheel hubs and the rotors and pads are Nakamoto; should I try this or bite the bullet and drop coin on the Timkens and Raybestos?

The price is tempting, however, it still doesn't get you calipers or hoses, and I don't think the pads are anything special. The hubs look like they have the plastic retainers on them... is that what your truck uses? Mine uses the steel and I had to cut the plastic/rubber off the new hub and transfer my steel brackets to it, when I got a hub set up like that. I might try the Nakamoto rotors at some point.

I used one new Advance driveworks hub, and 1 old Timkin
Raybestos rotors that I got a screaming deal on from Rockauto
Raybestos hoses (Don't buy them, they're just rebranded Sunsongs for more money, but seem ok otherwise)
Orielly calipers
Performance Friction pads
Dorman hub bolts from Advance and a few OEM that were in decent shape.

Register with Advance, Check prices with them,and leave the stuff in your cart... they often have a 14% coupon code, but they'll email you a bump it up to 20% and then 25% if you don't make the purchase right away. With the coupon code they are competitive with Rockauto.
 

454cid

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When shopping on Rockauto, I've found it helps to have multiple carts... that way you can price the same job out different ways.
 

BNielsen

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If you are replacing all that, why not upgrade to the dually front brakes? You'll get thicker rotors, and larger pistons.

I would add brake hoses to your list.

I'd get calipers locally unless you're getting a screaming deal. Oreilly let me use the SRW calipers as cores for the new DRW calipers, since the core charge was the same. Plus, if I have one that needs to be replaced, I can exchange it in town under warranty instead of waiting on shipping or a refund.



The price is tempting, however, it still doesn't get you calipers or hoses, and I don't think the pads are anything special. The hubs look like they have the plastic retainers on them... is that what your truck uses? Mine uses the steel and I had to cut the plastic/rubber off the new hub and transfer my steel brackets to it, when I got a hub set up like that. I might try the Nakamoto rotors at some point.

I used one new Advance driveworks hub, and 1 old Timkin
Raybestos rotors that I got a screaming deal on from Rockauto
Raybestos hoses (Don't buy them, they're just rebranded Sunsongs for more money, but seem ok otherwise)
Orielly calipers
Performance Friction pads
Dorman hub bolts from Advance and a few OEM that were in decent shape.

Register with Advance, Check prices with them,and leave the stuff in your cart... they often have a 14% coupon code, but they'll email you a bump it up to 20% and then 25% if you don't make the purchase right away. With the coupon code they are competitive with Rockauto.

I was planning on the DRW rotors, pads, and calipers; and I was just gonna buy it all in one go from the same place; but I'll look into all that, the hoses I was looking at were ProComp braided brake lines.

I'm just trying to keep from breaking the bank entirely, but it's looking like it's going to be inevitable; I want to do balljoints, sway bar bushings and endlinks, tie-rods, control arm bushings, shocks, etc. etc. etc;

I don't know if I could live with myself if I didn't do all that while I have it apart.
 

454cid

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I was planning on the DRW rotors, pads, and calipers; and I was just gonna buy it all in one go from the same place; but I'll look into all that, the hoses I was looking at were ProComp braided brake lines.

Oh, well that 1AAuto link you posted was for SRW... easy tell is that pads.

I'm just trying to keep from breaking the bank entirely, but it's looking like it's going to be inevitable; I want to do balljoints, sway bar bushings and endlinks, tie-rods, control arm bushings, shocks, etc. etc. etc;

Yes, I understand. That's why it pays to shop around.

If the upper control arms bushings aren't bad, I'd leave them. If you need to do them later, not much has to come apart...unless maybe you're going to buy new arms anyway... or will you be going with urethane?

I don't know if I could live with myself if I didn't do all that while I have it apart.

Look to see what actually needs to be replaced now and how easy it is to get to the lesser needed stuff later.... sway bar bushings and shocks would be easy to do later, for instance, so "while I have it apart" isn't as big of a factor there.
 
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