OE Accumulator/filter drier insulation from GMT800

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Jared Jackson

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I didn't even know they were insulated until I got the wrecked parts truck that had one. Can't you clamp the nekked can and then put the insulation over top of that? Just cut a slice in there to work with the clamp?

Check out my picture of the clamp and the can before I disassembled it. There isn't much left of the can around the clamp. The factory is a two piece that assembles from top to bottom. This is a 2 piece that assembles from the sides... The clamp is one of the parts that is holding the insulation together along with the worm clamp that I put on top just to make sure the top was sealed together. I am positive someone could come up with a better solution, this is just what I did in my driveway in 30 minutes. I like posting stuff like this, because it gives someone else ideas, starts conversations and allows them to be more creative than I am lol...

Edit: Oh.... I see what your saying now! :doh2:

Yah... ehh... you could... Put the halves up there and start trimming where they contact the back side of the clamp until they seat all the way around...

both ways have their advantages I guess... I get full insulation but lose use of the factory clamp bolt. Trimming it uses the factory clamp but loses a little bit of insulated area... I might have to give that a shot! :cheers:

It's not the coolest "mod" so I doubt we will have a blown up thread of people getting creative!
 
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Supercharged111

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I'm not saying to chop out material, I'm saying just make cuts so the insulation slides over the clamp. Use stainless steel zip tie thingies to hold it all together and closed nice and tight. Blow Reilly's has them in their little hot rod section. I used them to hold some exhaust wrap on my y pipe on my Camaro.
 

Jared Jackson

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He said the GMT-400 part was discontinued, and showed a printout that had two pieces not available.

You got that Friday truck that was built at 4:50 PM. :patriot:

They were out of parts and just grabbed one from the storage room.
 

Jared Jackson

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I'm not saying to chop out material, I'm saying just make cuts so the insulation slides over the clamp. Use stainless steel zip tie thingies to hold it all together and closed nice and tight. Blow Reilly's has them in their little hot rod section. I used them to hold some exhaust wrap on my y pipe on my Camaro.

You would have to cut out quite a bit of material if I remember it like I think I am remembering it. That clamp is pretty tall.
 

Ken K

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With an understanding that keeping the accumulator insulation in tack will look nice and OE, but it is for condensation. As refrigerant is pumped thru the condenser, you have a high pressure liquid with a reduced temperature. It pass thru an oriface tube the has no control on the amount of refrigerant that floods into the evaporator. Going from a high pressure to a low pressure, then adding heat from the fan blowing warm cabin air across it, will cause the refrigerant to boil. It boils at a low temperature where in the best case, all of it turns to a gas. But liquid still remains under certain circumstances and makes it way into the accumulator. This liquid & gas hits a plastic inverted cones and falls onto the drying agent, with some oil. The accumulator sweats and drips water on the outside, but it's main function is to allow liquid refrigerant t boil off into a gas before it can reach the suction line fitting, then to the compressor. Liquid can't be compressed so an over-filled system can cause compressor damage. So the accumulator is a dryer, reservoir for oil and room for boiling off liquid into a gas. The insulation does not effect the systems performance, just keeps water from dripping onto the exhaust causing steam. Otherwise, it looks good.
Systems that use a thermal expansion valve controls the flow and uses a receiver/dryer...but is used on rear A/C because it is more efficient to boil off refrigerant even with low flow.
 
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