c1500deathtrap
I try
Under the thermostat is best. heres a pic of the setup i just finished for my truck.Im not great at shaping sheet metal.
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I used 620-634 which is the same as the Four Seasons 76034. The local Autozone price matched to the Rockauto price of $134.Could you give me the Dorman part # for your fans please? I like the way they look and personally have had better experience with adapted stock fans vs aftermarket, unless you buy high end. I know the imperial fans we sell st work are useless as a primary puller
Under the thermostat is best. heres a pic of the setup i just finished for my truck.Im not great at shaping sheet metal.You must be registered for see images attach
I just would not be able to live with the jb weld on the housing. I would be to concerned about it leaking.
If you want to use the head plug and it is stubborn just heat it with a torch for a bit and try again, it should come loose.
I personally would never have a coolant temperature switch on that side of thermostat. I care more about the engine temperature rather than when the thermostat opens. The only time that sucker is going to get any heat is when the thermostat actually does open. If that thermostat sticks closed you'll never get any cooling to it and you'll bake an engine in a heartbeat.
THANK YOU. You guys saved me a lot of typing.If a thermostat is stuck closed there's no fan big enough to cool the engine block enough to keep it from overheating, just sayin.
I'll have to see what i can fabricobble. And i used to have a mark viii fan and shroud, but i used it to make an electric mower.That shroud looks good, but it won't flow all that well with the fans off. Trap doors are your friend there, they blow open at speed and get sucked shut when the fans run. I deleted the stock dual fans on my Z06 and installed a Spal single with no shroud and coolant temps dropped from 194 to 187 highway summer. It'll suck a piece of paper off the floor into the front of the radiator too. My half ton has a Mark VIII fan but it only recently started working right (my fault). It'll blow ice cold at an idle and coolant temps are rock solid in traffic. Only question now that it's doing its thing is stop and go towing.
THANK YOU. You guys saved me a lot of typing.
Having the temp sender on the wrong side of the thermostat is a disaster waiting to happen. Having it epoxied in place using cheap epoxy is a disaster waiting to happen.
Heat the plug in the head cherry red, and let it cool. Propane will NOT be hot enough. MAPP-substitute might be hot enough. I would use oxy-acetylene. It'll likely screw right out without too much trouble afterwards. DON'T heat the head casting--heat the plug.
GM used to use several thermostat housing designs that had a threaded boss, they were available (inexpensive) in the aftermarket. Never needed one, bought one by accident years ago. I imagine they're still available. GM put a thermo-vacuum switch in the boss. At least that way you wouldn't need epoxy. But that location is the WRONG place for a temp sensor. If the thermostat sticks shut, the engine will overheat and the temp gauge will give you zero indication of the problem.
These may not be the part number you'd use, but it gives the idea.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP60529221
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6051075
Truthfully, it was a MISTAKE to remove the fan clutch system with it's fan shroud. You've spent a lot of time, money, effort, and enthusiasm replacing what the engineers designed, and you're unlikely to achieve any substantial gains--and VERY likely to have made things worse.
Did you remember to wire a system to engage both fans when the A/C is operating?
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/refrigerant-blowing-out-of-ac-compressor.42694/
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And i used to have a mark viii fan and shroud, but i used it to make an electric mower.