Post your lifted 2wd's!

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NightRunner

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So, finally got around to installing the Rough Country 4" lift kit. Spindles and blocks with new shocks. Still have yet to install the shocks since the truck rides decently on stocks but I know the rear is probably begging for a change. Here's some pictures and some notes.

1. I went ahead and replaced my rotors and pads while I was in the front end, it's worth it while you have everything apart.
2. If you need new ball joints, now is the time to do it as well. Mine were in acceptable condition but I see new ones in my future soon.
3. Rallies MIGHT NOT work with this setup. I have no clue why, but my rally wheels locked up on the spindle and drug my front wheels while I was backing up to check. Even after aligning the toe-in issue, they still rubbed. Good news is I had a set of stocks on stand by in case this happened. Strange issue, going to contact Rough Country about it today and see what their take is on it.
4. If you're anything like me, you'll have a massive toe-in issue that will make the truck completely inoperable. This is fixed by giving yourself an "eye level" alignment (or whatever you want to call it). I just adjusted my toe in by twisting my end links a bit. All is well and the test drive went over without a hitch.

This was the first time I have ever installed a lift kit. I've removed spindles before so I had experience there (aside from the fact that they were rusted to the ball joints which took a 5lb mallet to fix), but the leaf springs threw me off. It's simple, take the wheels off, put jack stands on the frame, lower the axle to near ground level (mind your driveshaft, shouldn't have any issues but still a good idea to watch the angle), and use another jack to lift the spring in the front (watch your brake line). Job took me about a full day to do alone for the first half, then had a buddy help with the second. Sturdy stuff, definitely worth the $500 I spent. Haven't put the 32s on yet so I haven't installed the steering stabilizer but I'll update and let you know what I think, I've seen mixed reviews on it's necessity. Here's some pictures of it:

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NightRunner

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What amount of backspacing doesn’t work with the 4” spindles?

I'm not too sure off the top of my head. I talked to Rough Country about this issue and they said they hadn't gotten any reports of rubbing on other wheels. You may not have the same issue I had.
 

Alex Montes

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Do you use shocks for 4” lift or shocks for stock application? I saw on a thread that said stocks work fine but i’m going to replace them here soon and don’t know which to get.
 

NightRunner

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If you're doing a spindle lift, the spindle maintains the factory suspension geometry because it just essentially drops the mounting point of the rotor and related hardware. Therefore, if all you're going to do is a spindle lift in the front, get stock shocks. RC makes a $500 kit that has spindles, blocks to level the rear with the front after the lift and shocks. It's definitely worth the money. If you're piecing together your lift and try to do lifted coil springs or coil spring spacers to add lift on top of it, then you'll need lift shocks.
 

John77lt

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Ok. So I have a 96 ex cab swb stepside 2wd. This truck is my old truck and I will be passing it down to my son in the next couple of months. We want to level the truck and add some new rims and a/t tires. The more I look into raising the front up 2" the more concerned I am about ride quality and alignment issues. Scott had mentioned dropping the back down with shackles and using a body lift to raise it 2" and it would be level. That wouldn't be a problem because I alrady have some 2" drop shackles. My one concern is how it would look in the back if we didn't raise the back bumper up. Does anyone have any rear pics of their stepside trucks with a bodylift? Just wondering how it would look if left bumper low or raised bumper and left reciever hitch low. Thanks for any pics.
 

RobHickerson

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Printed her
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