VorTecxas
American Nightmare
So I really didn't want to drop the fuel tank on my Yukon or on the Tahoe that's stuck in my apt parking lot, so after looking around the truck and carefully considering my options, I decided to cut a hole in the floor. Only took 45 minutes to cut the hole, replace the pump, and seal the hole. In case you feel the same way, here's how I did it. (Note - I'm not sure if 2-doors or 4WDs are the same, this is a 4-door 2WD). My only advice is be very mindful when cutting, don't try to do the whole side at once, just take your time. The split second that it gets through the metal, lay off, otherwise you're going to cut something you don't need to. Even being careful, it took me a lot less time to do it this way. I wouldn't worry about sparks with a cutoff wheel, unless you have a leak. The wheel doesn't produce hot enough or large enough sparks to burn through anything. If you're worried anyways, spray a little WD-40 where you're cutting, it will eliminate the sparks.
First, my tools -
Razor knife
Safety glasses (you WILL need them)
Angle grinder with 4" cutting wheel. I had a cordless one, obviously. I would also advise using a wheel that's been used and is a bit smaller, it leaves less room for error to occur.
Flathead screwdriver and hammer, to remove and install the lock ring.
Fuel line wrench (for the '99 Yukon, the '97 Tahoe had pinch-retainers that I was able to use my fingers to remove).
Plumbers tape
Fire extinguisher (just in case)
(all pics are in the Tahoe)
First, I flipped up the driver side backseat. You will feel a hump under the floor, this is where the pump is. Using the razor knife, cut the carpet and insulation around the BOTTOM of the hump, this leaves some room to work. I left the side by the seat mount attached so that it just flips back. The carpet for the cargo are is here too, just cut it and flip it back the same way. I had already made a cut in the floor before I decided I'd take pics and post it.
My first cut was along the backside (right side in the pic), since it's the trickiest one. This is where the tank is closest to the floor, and where the wiring harness is. I made the mistake on the Yukon of using a sawzall here because I misjudged the distance from floor to tank. I ended up cutting a slit in the tank and cutting the harness. You can see where I started a cut on the right side (top side in the pic). This is the best place to do so, because any farther and its spot-welded to another part of the body (also made that mistake on the Yukon).
Final two cuts and viola, exposed fuel pump! Be sure to cut along the TOP of the hump. The lines are a couple inches from the floor, so you have a little room to work with. The ones on the '97 (pictured) go straight to the left. The lines on the '99 are angled to the front left.
Replacing the pump is self-explanatory, so I'll skip that. I used one that did not need the adapter harness, so it was plug-and-play. To keep the panel in place, I ran a piece of plumbers tape on the top and bottom sides, halfway on (as if I was taping the panel in). I then set the panel on them and taped all four sides. This keeps it from just being supported by the pump. You could probably also use Duct or Gorilla tape, I used plumbers because it sticks to damn near everything. Looks decent, right?
Then, just flip your carpet back over. All done.
Hope this was helpful (rep if it was! Wink wink, nudge nudge)
First, my tools -
Razor knife
Safety glasses (you WILL need them)
Angle grinder with 4" cutting wheel. I had a cordless one, obviously. I would also advise using a wheel that's been used and is a bit smaller, it leaves less room for error to occur.
Flathead screwdriver and hammer, to remove and install the lock ring.
Fuel line wrench (for the '99 Yukon, the '97 Tahoe had pinch-retainers that I was able to use my fingers to remove).
Plumbers tape
Fire extinguisher (just in case)
(all pics are in the Tahoe)
First, I flipped up the driver side backseat. You will feel a hump under the floor, this is where the pump is. Using the razor knife, cut the carpet and insulation around the BOTTOM of the hump, this leaves some room to work. I left the side by the seat mount attached so that it just flips back. The carpet for the cargo are is here too, just cut it and flip it back the same way. I had already made a cut in the floor before I decided I'd take pics and post it.
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My first cut was along the backside (right side in the pic), since it's the trickiest one. This is where the tank is closest to the floor, and where the wiring harness is. I made the mistake on the Yukon of using a sawzall here because I misjudged the distance from floor to tank. I ended up cutting a slit in the tank and cutting the harness. You can see where I started a cut on the right side (top side in the pic). This is the best place to do so, because any farther and its spot-welded to another part of the body (also made that mistake on the Yukon).
You must be registered for see images attach
Final two cuts and viola, exposed fuel pump! Be sure to cut along the TOP of the hump. The lines are a couple inches from the floor, so you have a little room to work with. The ones on the '97 (pictured) go straight to the left. The lines on the '99 are angled to the front left.
You must be registered for see images attach
Replacing the pump is self-explanatory, so I'll skip that. I used one that did not need the adapter harness, so it was plug-and-play. To keep the panel in place, I ran a piece of plumbers tape on the top and bottom sides, halfway on (as if I was taping the panel in). I then set the panel on them and taped all four sides. This keeps it from just being supported by the pump. You could probably also use Duct or Gorilla tape, I used plumbers because it sticks to damn near everything. Looks decent, right?
You must be registered for see images attach
Then, just flip your carpet back over. All done.
You must be registered for see images attach
Hope this was helpful (rep if it was! Wink wink, nudge nudge)
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