Will It Fit????

[Scootin 89]

I absolutely HATE body lifts. If my truck's gonna be lifted, it's gonna be suspension all the way.

 

[Scootin 89]

Found this on a lift kit site:

"Crank Up the Torsion Bars? - Don't Do It!

If you're thinking of skipping a suspension kit, opting instead to just crank on the torsion bars to generate lift, there are some things you need to know. Trent McGee at Superlift Suspension points out that by doing so, you may get an inch or two of increased ride height, but the disadvantages far outweigh the advantages. As the ride height is increased, the distance between the bottom of the upper control arms and their extension travel stops becomes smaller, and this results in a rough ride. The reason is that with no extension travel, the suspension cannot fully cycle to soak up bumps and dips. Over time, this topping out causes accelerated upper balljoint wear, front-end alignment problems and CV axle-boot wear, all the result of increased operating angles."

Everything that I've highlighted red, I cannot afford to fix if it breaks.

 

[FastOrange]

Found this on a lift kit site:

"Crank Up the Torsion Bars? - Don't Do It!

If you're thinking of skipping a suspension kit, opting instead to just crank on the torsion bars to generate lift, there are some things you need to know. Trent McGee at Superlift Suspension points out that by doing so, you may get an inch or two of increased ride height, but the disadvantages far outweigh the advantages. As the ride height is increased, the distance between the bottom of the upper control arms and their extension travel stops becomes smaller, and this results in a rough ride. The reason is that with no extension travel, the suspension cannot fully cycle to soak up bumps and dips. Over time, this topping out causes accelerated upper balljoint wear, front-end alignment problems and CV axle-boot wear, all the result of increased operating angles."

Everything that I've highlighted red, I cannot afford to fix if it breaks.

let me guess, they want you to buy Keys to fix this issue? cause keys do NOTHING in 88-98's

 

[Butch]

Here's the physics behind it, as the bars are twist the spring rate is increased causing the front end to be lifted. As the front end is lifted there is increased droop putting more strain on the balljoints, TRE's, CV joints, the more extreme the angles the worse it is. The only to avoid this is for the front cross member/differential to be drop to keep angles as flat as possible. Their kit may include UCA's but that only fixes one problem, your still stuck with your TRE's and CV angles. These companies will try to blow smoke up your ass, just like they say a CAI on a Vortec 5.7L will net you 30hp. Post the link to kit your looking at.

 

[Scootin 89]

The main reason I dont want to do a T-bar crank is because I like the way my truck rides. It's a 4x4 and it rides better than my old 2x4 3/4 ton did. It rides better than my moms 2000 Mercury Mountaineer and almost as good as my dads 2002 Buick Century. I dont really want to lose ride quality here, cause the tires will kill it enough.

Hell, if I end up geting the lift for the trade I offered the guy and not using it, I can trade it to another local guy for a trans, since mine is bad.

I cant afford the kit that I want which is a DC 6" kit and quad shocks, so I have to go with what I can get, it may not be what I want but it's better than what I have. I've always wanted a 4x4, finally got one. Want a big 4x4, working towards it.

 

[Butch]

Ride is one of those sacrifices we make when modifying suspension, its a truck. Those dual shocks are also unnecessary and will give you worse ride than a single shock, they would have to have very soft valving to improve your ride. If you want a "like stock" ride then save up for the Cepek, invest in good Bilstein shocks, and a good riding tire like a BFG or Toyo. Gotta pay to play, no cheap way around it.

 

[Hezsus]

FWIW theres nothing wrong with a body lift, keep the ride quality and put on bigger tires. the tires is what gives you the clearence, the body lift is just so the tires fit, a body lift and full crank on one of these trucks can fit 36's with min rubbing. Running cranked dosent hurt too much if you leave a little travel and dont abuse it (but then why would you bother right) still cheaper to replace a few front end parts that could probably use it anyways that a full 6" kit.. but i would get a 6" over a BL if i could afford it. just my .02

 

[Scootin 89]

Ok, let me put it this way, I want the frame to be higher off the ground. The frame was what got me stuck here. The tires were digging but once the frame hit the hard top snow, I was done.

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This is the look I'm headed for.

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[dirtyhick42]

Ok, let me put it this way, I want the frame to be higher off the ground. The frame was what got me stuck here. The tires were digging but once the frame hit the hard top snow, I was done.

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This is the look I'm headed for.

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The look yourheaded for is a body lift with more than likely full crank 2 inch block and 33-35s.

 

[Butch]

A BL will allow you room for bigger rubber which still nets you ground clearance on a budget, its a close as your gonna get to what your looking for with out dropping over $500. A BL and crank will still stick ya though, ask me how...

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and will put you significantly higher than stock...

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