Where to purchase reman axel?

[Mike Franklin]

Hi guys, just bought my dream truck, 97 burban as a result of the VW TDI Scandal. I am new here and apologize if I have misplaced this thread.

My diff is on the way out, shuddering around turns when right wheel is on the outside diameter, clunks from stop, I checked, no slop in the ujoints. Where would you purchase a reman axel from?

My brick and mortar options are advanced with a Spartan ATK unit, Autozone or Napa (I don't even know if they offer reman's) or online or purchase a salvage unit and try to rebuild it on my own. (Confidence in my ability is about 85% that I can do it correctly)

Does anyone have any wisdom to offer on where to go?

Conventional thinking says stay away from advance and autozone units as the warranties are useless when dealing with those companies.

So, please chime in on a reputable company to order a reman GU6, or if I wanted to upgrade to a limited slip diff what my options would be in a 97 1500 Suburban 4wd? This suburban will mainly be used for towing, family hauling, and beach driving.

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[chipskittles]

I'd confirm the problem is with the diff first. Jack it up, take the wheels and drums off, assuming it's rear drum. Pull the diff cover and check the gears condition. With the transmission in neutral you can spin it over by hand and the problem area should show itself. Spider gears and pinion bearings can be replaced pretty easily in the vehicle if everything else is good. You can also check the axle bearings and seals while it's up the air with the drums off.

 

[Jorge6.5]

I personally would find one from a salvage yard, swap in with new fluid, seals, u joints and u bolts.

I would suggest a 14 bolt semi floater but not sure one could be had with the sway bar brakets attached.

 

[GMCDave71801]

I would definitely confirm that it is the rear axle first but if it is I would go with a pull it yourself salvage yar for two reasons 1 it's probably the lowest cost and 2 at that type of yard you can pull the cover and brakes to throughly inspect it something you can't do at other types of salvage yards finding a good one should be fairly easy then jus assemble with new seals, oil, u joints and u bolts don't cheap out and re-use ubolts They are cheap only about 10.00 each I'll post the part numbers to a couple options when I get home as far as upgrades a 6 lug 14 bolt semi float would be great I just put one in my truck everyone correct me if I wrong but I pretty sure chevy didn't offer the 6 lug 14 bolt sf with 3.42 so u would have to do a gear change and on the posi thing look for rpo code g80 which is the factory posi or technically auto locker not the best out there but effective or u could put in a powertrax no slip which simply replaces the spider gears and you won't have to do all the work of setting up the gears but it only works with an open carrier or u could go all out and get a 14b sf with 3.73 or 4.11 gears put in a Eaton tru-trac and swap the front diff for the one from the truck u got the rear end from this would help you out a lot if you are towing much basically u have all kinds of options jus depends on how much money and work u want to put in it if your interested I have the 3.73 10 bolt with a g80 auto locker I took out of my truck it's in good shape only reason it came out was I wanted the 14 bolt in it I would sell for 150.00 I'm in southern Arkansas so unless your close shipping would be high just let me know if u want it or have any questions

 

[shovelbill]

you can get the semi-floater geared in 3.42.....not only do you get a much more robust rear, you also get bigger brakes.....if you go this route make sure you install the proper comp valve for the brakes.

check your RPO codes in the glove box and see if it has the J5B code.....that's the 1/2 ton setup....you will be upgrading to the J6B brakes that the light duty 2500's have. this is what i'll be doin to my '98 rcsb and i'm also geared at 3.42.

search out threads on 14 bolt semi-floater, J5B, J6B and brake upgrades.....plenty to read and ponder on.

towing and brakes go well together.

just my $.03

 

[GMCDave71801]

I never could find a 3.42 14b sf guess I didn't look hard enough was looking at one time for another truck I had years ago do u know what trucks they came in I looked at a bunch of LD 2500 4x4 in different cab and bed combinations as well as different transmissions and all I found was 4.11 and 3.73 were they only in 2wd? any way why would the comp valve need to be changed on the brakes? its still a disc/drum setup I just swapped mine and didn't change the valve and it seems to work fine am I asking for trouble down the road?

 

[shovelbill]

I never could find a 3.42 14b sf guess I didn't look hard enough was looking at one time for another truck I had years ago do u know what trucks they came in I looked at a bunch of LD 2500 4x4 in different cab and bed combinations as well as different transmissions and all I found was 4.11 and 3.73 were they only in 2wd? any way why would the comp valve need to be changed on the brakes? its still a disc/drum setup I just swapped mine and didn't change the valve and it seems to work fine am I asking for trouble down the road?

the one my "junk yard" guy was going to get me was out of a LD 2500 suburban.....i do believe they were available in the 1/2 ton diesels as well.

it's my understanding the 14 bolt has smaller wheel cylinders compared to the 10 bolt and the volume necessary is different betwixt the two, same as the 1 ton calipers v. the 1/2 ton up front.....they may stop "better" but the pedal "feel" doesn't change much......there's a great thread somewhere on here.....i'll try and find it for ya.

 

[shovelbill]

the main post that got my attention is here.....i guess i saved it. the whole thread got my two brain cells talking again.


http://www.gmt400.com/threads/swap-upgrades-to-front-calipers.6251/page-11

 

[GMCDave71801]

Never thought about that but it makes sense guess I'm gonna change it to be on the safe side I did some checking and u are right 3.42 were in some LD2500 surburbans with automatic transmissions guess it makes sense burbs are usually not towing a lot of weight like trucks and that would work well because it would have the sway bar mounts just find a factory g80 or get an open and add a powertrax no-slip and he would have an almost bullet proof rear with very little work

 

[GMCDave71801]

the main post that got my attention is here.....i guess i saved it. the whole thread got my two brain cells talking again.


http://www.gmt400.com/threads/swap-upgrades-to-front-calipers.6251/page-11

Do u know if the LD C2500's are 6 lug? Or are they 5 lug like the C1500's I was offered a 1990 LD C2500 with a 14 b sf and a blown motor for cheap but about the only thing I could use is a few body parts and the rear if it's 6 lug not much else would swap to my 95 k1500 also is the width the same 2wd to 4wd?