WELL SHOOT... Need some help

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Mr_Pud

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Long story short traded a 2011 f250 6.7 for 1996 K3500 EXT Cab Dually. Trying to get out of debt and i ended up oweing a little on the Chevy.. got it home serviced it and noticed front frame rot. ran it for 5000 miles hauling and seen it got worse. i dont have any pics but its bad in the front end. motor tranny runs great cab and body are in great shape and i owe money on it. so scrapping is not an option. What are my options as far as finding a frame. will a 2500 frame work what do i need to know if the frame will swap without any heavy modifaction. thanks. btw gmt400 style trucks has always been my favorite.
 

Bob L

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Where is the frame rot? ahead of suspension mount points or behind? Hard to tell best option without a little more info. I just cut 18" off an F150 frame made up a replacement piece and welded it it in. It was the rear though but it was where the rear spring hanger mounts. A good welder can section in parts from a salvage frame too. all depends on how much you can get at the area.
 

Mr_Pud

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It is in the front both sides are bad inside and outside. motor would most likey have to be pulled to access the bad points. the Steering grear box has tore the inside of the frame and moves when you move the steering wheel. on the out side it is almosted completed rusted through and broke where the a arm and crossmember connect. on the passenger side i can stick 2 fingers in a rust hole on the bottom of the frame and there is a crack 3/4 the way up the frame. Il get some pics tonight. but its bad enough I think it needs a new frame a found one about 1 1/2hours away from me. guy wants $850 is that a good price? i dont have a welder but i believe I could do the swap the back end is also very bad surface rust. I think it would be more cost effictive to just replace the frame instead on constantly chaseing rust spots. any info if a 2500 frame would work?
 

Bob L

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I have done quite a few frame swaps over the years but mostly newer non rusted collision damage. If the frame for sale is real clean I guess 850.00 would be worth it to save your truck. If you do your own labor I would figure a few hundred more for rusty fasteners, fuel and brake lines and possibly wheel cylinders/calipers if bleeders break. If you have a lift it is a lot easier as you don't even have to remove the nose. Unbolt a/c comp. and hang it with body so no recharge or broken fittings. You would be paying a welder that much if not more for a bandaid I imagine. That is not their favorite job to do.
 

Justin S

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Maybe finding a cheap truck with a bad engine/trans and a good frame and swapping that would be a little cheaper and easier, even if you owe money on the other one. From the sounds of it, sounds like a frame swap is more work than its worth.
 

Bob L

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Except for the rusty bolt situation frame swaps are pretty easy. Put both frames next to each other on stands, pull engine /tranny set aside then just take off turn around put on till everything is swapped put the motor trans back in and drop the body. On an old truck a torch will be your friend.
 

Mr_Pud

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thanks so much for everyone's quick replies. I will let all know and post dome pics on this build. Here are the pics of the truck and why I'd like to keep it. 454 4l80e Silverado all power
 

Blackwater

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Everything else good on the truck? Go find the right frame. Its a nice looking truck. If it where mine I would find a duramax 6.6L turbo diesel with a Alison 1000 tranny. Just to be different.
 

Mr_Pud

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finishing up some details on the new frame. I forgot to mention the frame is 500 w/o Front Diff and guys want 800 with Does anyone know what i need to know for example YEAR/Gear Ratio i need to make sure its compatible with my truck. are all years the same on the Front DIFF? and would it be worth going ahead and buying the diff if i can get him down a little bit. i cant find any on ebay.... thanks.
 
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